Fuel time
There are two ways of using a fuel pump cut-out switch.
1) Turn the switch off, crank for about 10-15 seconds - this clears out all the fuel.  Stop the cranking, turn the switch back on.  Crank over and the engine should start.
2) Turn off switch, crank over - you'll hear the engine start to catch.  If you're good enough, you can throw the switch just as it's catching and get the engine to start.  This is the "advanced" method.
-Ted
1) Turn the switch off, crank for about 10-15 seconds - this clears out all the fuel.  Stop the cranking, turn the switch back on.  Crank over and the engine should start.
2) Turn off switch, crank over - you'll hear the engine start to catch.  If you're good enough, you can throw the switch just as it's catching and get the engine to start.  This is the "advanced" method.

-Ted
However, I'm having trouble finding which relay this is. Am I going to have to get inside of the underside of the driver's dash to do this, or is it bunched with the wires along the steering column?
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Two black/white wires - one is power +12VDC, one comes from the ECU
Blue/red goes to the fuel pump itself - non-turbo wiring shows this to be just a blue wire.
Black/red comes from airflow meter for fuel-cut.
Black is ground.
One of the black/white wires is thicker - you can interrupt this circuit, but you need a 20A minimum rated switch.
The blue/red wire should be just as thick as the above.  Same caution with the switch.
You can try the black/red wire from the airflow meter.
Or, you can try the black ground wire.
These two would be the safest and lowest current of all the wires that would work with a fuel pump cut-out switch.
My personal FC runs a 30A rated switch into the blue/red wire.
-Ted
Blue/red goes to the fuel pump itself - non-turbo wiring shows this to be just a blue wire.
Black/red comes from airflow meter for fuel-cut.
Black is ground.
One of the black/white wires is thicker - you can interrupt this circuit, but you need a 20A minimum rated switch.
The blue/red wire should be just as thick as the above.  Same caution with the switch.
You can try the black/red wire from the airflow meter.
Or, you can try the black ground wire.
These two would be the safest and lowest current of all the wires that would work with a fuel pump cut-out switch.
My personal FC runs a 30A rated switch into the blue/red wire.
-Ted
Last edited by RETed; Apr 4, 2002 at 03:16 PM.
I'm not an idiot
Okay, both the blue/red (blue in 88s), and small blue/red wire are wrong
I've done this procedure twice in the last two hours and both of them just controlled something else. So I'm really serious, WHICH WIRE IS IT?
I've done this procedure twice in the last two hours and both of them just controlled something else. So I'm really serious, WHICH WIRE IS IT?
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