Okay here it goes guys... I am working on a N/A to turbo swap and the car tries to start but does'nt. No big deal searched the forum found hundreds of leads and started testing. I keep falling into the problem my rail would get fuel when I opened the maf and turned the key to start but when I was tring to start the injectors would not fire. So I pulled cas and tested the injectors that way good. So I tesed the system again by opening the maf but this time I got nothing unless I taped the fuel pump relay. No big deal grabed the good one off my husbands n/a and tested it again and got the same reaction. Could by any crazy chance where the relays plug in be bad or am I missing something here???

 

If the key is to ON, engine OFF, and you jumper the yellow two socket connector near the right front strut tower, does the pump run? Should.

If it does run, then go to Start and see if the engine starts. No start? Did you notice if you had spark OR if when trying to Start, does the tach needle bump just a tiny bit? Should. If it bumps a bit, then you know the CAS wiring is good and the ECU is good. AFM is not a player during START, so ignore it for a while.

 

not to butt in but what is a cas i have searched but could only find the acronym

 

cas crankangle sensor...yes we have spark and yes the yellow socket

 

ok i figured it was a crank angle sensor but rotaries dont have cranks so it kinda threw me off

 

ok we tried a few other odds and ends... we replaced the leading plugs and sprayed ether in the intake. We got a response but our response is spuratic and not continous. Quick off the wall question does the knock sensor have to be pluged in for starting? Stupid I know but my poor head hurts.

 

Knock sensor has squat to do with starting. Even the afm isn't needed for starting until the rpm's get over 500rpm.

This could be a easy fixed problem. Go pull the RETURN hose off the engine and put a rag under the metal nipple it was attached to. Turn the key to ON. Now have someone quickly jumper the yellow two socket fuel pump check connector. Fuel should flow from the metal nipple the fuel return hose was attached to. If not, then leave the jumper in the connetor for a few seconds longer.

No fuel coming from the return nipple???? Then the fuel hoses are on wrong. Swap the feed and return lines at the engine and try again. Note the JDM engines are plumbed different than USA engines.

Sputters with starter fluid is good in that you know you have spark and ...stuff. Means it's a fuel delivery problem, I guess.

I'm throwing in a chart of what the ECU uses for STARTING. No extra cost to you.

 

Those were right. The next thing on my list was to add more gas and lower the back end because I do not have a full tank and I now on SOME cars that makes a difference when you only have enough gas. I have a 255psi walboral(cant spell).