Augh... well... as you may have remembered a bolt broke off on my fuel rail to UIM. Any ideas guys? The main suggestion I've had was to drill it out and retap. Is that the best way? I don't have a tap and die set, so I'd be buying one if you guys don't have any other ideas?
The fuel rail is pretty damn solid for only one bolt mounting it... I just don't know if I really trust it or not.

I haven't driven the car since august btw. Still waiting for the tranny, its getting pretty close though...

 

i say just wire it down and forget it. as long as the one bolt holsd it down and the injectors hold it some too, i think it will be ok if you dont feel like going through thte effort of a retap. zip ties fix all

 

It doesn't take much to have a fuel leak. Think of is as "Will it hold 40psi".

I would do it right and retap it...

 

Do it right the first time, or do it again later....you choose.

 

try removing it with a screw extractor.

 

get you another upper intake .
save the screw you have and find another one.

 

what year car do you have. and is it a non turbo?
i have 2 upper intakes sitting at home .
that i may be willing to sell to you for $10.00 plus shipping.

the ones i have are for 89-91 non turbo

 

S5/90 n/a. I'll take one as long as the VDI is good. That uim has an almost perfect vdi travel

 

This is really bad advice. I assume that you're willing to rebuild his car after it burns to the ground?

I would drill and retap. We're not talking about a critical bolt, so if it's a little off-center then it will be OK. You can find cheap tap and die sets at Harbor Freight (.com).

 

i'm not sure how the travel on the vdi is right now. i'll have to check when i get home.
but worse case senario just transfer your vdi to mine. or
another one from someone else for that matter

oh and by the time he gets done retapping the one hes got he could have replaced 3 uim. and be done in time for a ride with g-friend

 

which reminds me, i've got a thread in the lougne that needs updating...

I dunno.. I do need a tap and die set (seems like when you dont have one, there are numerous projects that look like you do need one). But I'd want to get a nice craftsman one that won't bust up on me. In the short run, it would be less expensive to get another uim...

 

Project84 came over and we tried to drill out that bolt. Now we've got a cryotreated bolt extractor in there Heh... I'm not to stressed about it, i was figurng I was going ot have to get a dif manifold anyhow. Still got that one for sale?

 

I sheared off both bolts on mine. I changed the hold thing. In stead of threading the bolts in the manifold, they are in the manfiold and the fuel rail is held down by the nuts.

 

so you used studs in there instead of bolts?

 

I've stopped wasting my time with bolt extractors. They just don't seem to work and often break off (as you discovered). I just drill and tap.

 

So it broke off in it? Crap, good luck drilling that out, it's impossible, trust me- I've broken bolt extractors before, and once their in there, it's absolutely impossble to drill a hole in them to try again.

 

Get a reverse drill bit smaller then the shank maybe about half the size of the bolt shank , you will also need a reversable drill. soak the broken bolt with some sort of penitrating oil (liquid wrench)for a day the try to drill the bolt out slowly. If you are lucky the drill will "catch" and unscrew the broken bolt shank...if your not, you will have to drill the bolt out and retap the hole

 

Not gonna happen if there is already a broken off extrator tip in it, they are impossible to drill. Dead end.

 

After an extracter is broken off in there about the only thing left to do is weld something to the bolt stud to get a grip on it.

 

Yeup. cryotreated metal crap. Anyone have a s5 uim to sell me?

 

Well, if you don't want to buy a new manifold.... there are solutions.
Personally, here's what I would do-

Remove the fuel rail
Take an angle grinder with a cutting wheel (not grinding- too thick), or even a dremel with a cutting wheel, and cut/grind out a slice right down the middle of the bolt and boss, about 1/4-1/2" deep.
You should easly be able to get the remaining bolt out with a big flathead screwdriver, with some pliers on it,or whatever. If it won't budge, cut farther down right througfh to the end of the bolt, to split the thing in half, then remove the halves.

Now, you have a choice of either putting another bolt back in- it should thread in failry tightly, and be OK as long as you didn't make the initial cut too thick, or the other option is to fill the whole thing with JB weld, wait for it to harden, then drill and tap it to accept the bolt.

 

Get a Drill bit a little smaller than the hole and then get the Easy Out extractor bit.

If your really lucky then you can get it out without totally ruining the therads on the rail. If not then just tap in a new thread.

I've had to do this with my exhaust a couple times.

 

Theres already an EZ-out snapped off in the bolt hole. If I remember right, they reverse thread the original bolt.

Drilling is no longer an option... I think dremeling a slot in the bolt is out too, both because of the EZ cryo-steel crap

 

You can cut it... the reason drill bits don't work on the extractor is that the bit dulls almost instantly, and are useless. The grinding wheel is abrasive media that can cut through anything since it doesn't need to be sharp, it'll just wear down eventually.
It will work, trust me. A "zipwheel" on a grinder is the best bet, but a dremel will work, just be a litle easier on it.
Good luck!