first off i searched and searched... and it's a series 4 so i left the auto computer in

fuel pump was working fine with the auto tranny in...

here is what i did:

1. adapter brackets, flywheel clutch, etc., then tranny/shifter/hydraulics and a 4.1 rear end.

2. re-wired auto harness so that a clutch pedal switch from the donor car makes the same continuity as the the park/neutral switch would have for the auto. (snipped harness off of auto trans at park/neutral switch and ran the ~14 guage black wire and ~14 guage white wire through clutch switch). this function works fine and the car only turns over with clutch in.

3. wired reverse light section of harness to sensor on 5 speed. reverse lights work.

so *everything* works but my fuel pump.

here's what i've tried:

1. i have a fuel cut switch and have bypassed it to rule out the switch being bad

2. tried jumpering the fuel pump via the underhood connector, doesnt turn on

3. tapped on main EFI relay and circuit opening relay to try and loosen it if corroded

4. measured voltage at fuel cut switch (when it was enabled) no voltage. the cut switch is illuminated when on and will not illuminate. switch is now bypassed for simplicity.

5. checked fuses underhood and inside

6. stared at fsm wiring diagrams

from what i can see, the transmission wiring should not inhibit the fuel pump in any way. and besides... the wiring is as close to stock as i could manage... just with maunal trans switches operating in instead of the ones on the auto.

any help is appreciated... i'm dying to work through those gears and forget about my slush box... but i can't do that without fuel.

 

all I know is that when my car is just on ACC, out of gear the fuel pump is off, but when you stick it in any gear, the pump turns on and you can feel the vibrating through the shifter (coming from the fual rails) and you can hear it.


that probably dident help much, but it's a start.

 

well when the auto was in and everything worked and i turned the key to "on" the cut switch illuminated when on, meaning it was hot, though the pump wasn't on yet. i can't get the wire to be hot whatever i try now. i think that means i'm not even getting power to the circuit opening relay, but i can't figure out what i did to interrupt it or what i need to modify to get power back.

 

Nuetral/clutch switch.....

 

i appreciate the input, but that's about as clear as mud

 

So you verified the ENGINE fuse is not blown?


-Ted

 

the one in the drivers footwell? yes, i checked all the fuses down there with a fuse checker and gave the underhood fuses a visual. i'll probably double check when i go to tweak it today and check the underhood ones with an ohm meter. i also figured a blown engine fuse would cause other symptoms than just my fuel pump... come to think of it my blower fan on the radiator comes on now with the key in the on position i don't think it did before. probably not related. maybe i'll go check my other systems too.

 

thanks, Ted, i would have never re-checked the fuses if you hadn't mentioned it. i decided to use an ohm meter on the engine fuse this time and it was blown... worthless tester that came with my mini fuses said it had continuity.

so anyways... best modification i think i'll ever do to the car. the 5 speed feels amazing. thanks for the help.

 

which has NOTHING to do with fuelpump

 

Poop.... Glad You got the car running...

 

********come to think of it my blower fan on the radiator comes on now with the key in the on position i don't think it did before. probably not ********

The ENGINE fuse pulls in the Fan Relay when the key is to ON or better. If the ENGINE fuse is not good, the Fan Relay drops out and makes a circuit which in turn ......makes the fan run. It's in the online, free fsm.