fuel pump resistor relay question
07-20-08, 08:08 PM
#1
fuel pump resistor relay question
I've got an 89 vert with a JDM S5 13B swapped. JDM tranny, USDM driveshat, diff., and half-shafts. N370 ECU with N/A harness with pins swapped. RB 3" exhaust w/ presilencer and FCD. I've got my air pump removed as well as my ACV and split air pipe. I've upgraded to an FD fuel pump and 800cc secondary injectors. Also swapped an FD alt and while doing that I replaced the thermosensor.
I think my fuel pump resistor relay is going bad. Symptoms:
1: occasional fuel smell mostly on startup but also less often after the car has been driven and is idling. When changing the secondaries I replaced the fuel filter and all the fuel lines from the filter forward and I've checked it for leaks a couple times. And actually I had the same fuel smell from before I upgraded the secondary injectors...but also only occasional.
2: Recently after driving and coming back to the car it has a hard time turning over. Usually stepping on the gas will get it to start up, but every so often it takes a couple tries.
3:Every so often I'll turn the key to start the car and i get no response. Everything electrical will be working (stereo, interior lights, etc) the car simply doesn't make any attempt to turn over. When it does this I can simply keep turning the ignition from off to start and it will decide to turn over. It did this yesterday and after the car decided it would try to turn over I had a real hard time getting it to start...it kept puttering and not actually turning over. Partially flooded I'm guessing.
4: When I got home I let the car idle and popped the hood. There was a electrical sounding ticking noise coming from the resistor relay. I started the car up this morning and drove it all day, it still makes that ticking noise..but not nearly as loud.
I tested resistance on the resistor and with the multitester set on 2k ohms I got these resistance:
a-b=0.0
c-d=.083
e-f=.001
I had a dumb moment while looking at the FSM and couldn't figure out where my Circuit Opening Relay was. At first I assumed it was sitting next to the resistor and found when I took top off that mine looked much much different from the FSM. It wasn't till I was looking at my notes while posting that it dawned on me that the relay is probably the one that sits on the driver's side near the firewall.
I did snag the resistor relay off my father's 90 vert and tested it as a reference point for mine and it came up nearly identical to my resistances:
0.0
.084
.002
I had to stop working on the car for dinner and a movie, but I did swap his resistor relay onto my car. I get the same ticking noise as with mine. I put mine on his car and started his up...it seemed to be fine but I didn't drive it, just let it idle for a couple minutes.
Can anyone offer advice on where to look next? Well other than the obvious of testing the circuit opening relay. I've read about rewiring the resistor relay and relocating it, but I'm not sure if that applies to mine possibly going bad. Relocating a faulty part only moves the part. Can a voltage drop to I think it's 9v (the reason for the rewiring of the relay) cause these kinds of problems? Last question, are all the FC resistor relays the same part and interchangeable or should I be looking for a S5 TII resistor relay to replace my probably bad one?
I think my fuel pump resistor relay is going bad. Symptoms:
1: occasional fuel smell mostly on startup but also less often after the car has been driven and is idling. When changing the secondaries I replaced the fuel filter and all the fuel lines from the filter forward and I've checked it for leaks a couple times. And actually I had the same fuel smell from before I upgraded the secondary injectors...but also only occasional.
2: Recently after driving and coming back to the car it has a hard time turning over. Usually stepping on the gas will get it to start up, but every so often it takes a couple tries.
3:Every so often I'll turn the key to start the car and i get no response. Everything electrical will be working (stereo, interior lights, etc) the car simply doesn't make any attempt to turn over. When it does this I can simply keep turning the ignition from off to start and it will decide to turn over. It did this yesterday and after the car decided it would try to turn over I had a real hard time getting it to start...it kept puttering and not actually turning over. Partially flooded I'm guessing.
4: When I got home I let the car idle and popped the hood. There was a electrical sounding ticking noise coming from the resistor relay. I started the car up this morning and drove it all day, it still makes that ticking noise..but not nearly as loud.
I tested resistance on the resistor and with the multitester set on 2k ohms I got these resistance:
a-b=0.0
c-d=.083
e-f=.001
I had a dumb moment while looking at the FSM and couldn't figure out where my Circuit Opening Relay was. At first I assumed it was sitting next to the resistor and found when I took top off that mine looked much much different from the FSM. It wasn't till I was looking at my notes while posting that it dawned on me that the relay is probably the one that sits on the driver's side near the firewall.
I did snag the resistor relay off my father's 90 vert and tested it as a reference point for mine and it came up nearly identical to my resistances:
0.0
.084
.002
I had to stop working on the car for dinner and a movie, but I did swap his resistor relay onto my car. I get the same ticking noise as with mine. I put mine on his car and started his up...it seemed to be fine but I didn't drive it, just let it idle for a couple minutes.
Can anyone offer advice on where to look next? Well other than the obvious of testing the circuit opening relay. I've read about rewiring the resistor relay and relocating it, but I'm not sure if that applies to mine possibly going bad. Relocating a faulty part only moves the part. Can a voltage drop to I think it's 9v (the reason for the rewiring of the relay) cause these kinds of problems? Last question, are all the FC resistor relays the same part and interchangeable or should I be looking for a S5 TII resistor relay to replace my probably bad one?
07-20-08, 08:21 PM
#2
HAILERS
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Next time you hear the ticking.........reach over and pull the electrical plug off the BAC. It will stop ticking.
The resistor relay either sends full batt voltage to the fuel pump or cuts it down to approx 9vdc. During Start the pump sees full batt voltage til the engine starts and then it falls to the 9vdc. No matter. The fuel rail pressure will still be approx37-39psi in either case when starting the car. I don't see that relay resistor causing a fuel smell. Either the charcoal canister is missing in action or you've a fuel leak.
The ECU sends a gnd signal to the relay to drop the voltage from batt voltage to the approx 9vdc. It's a green/red wire I think. Disconnect that wire and the realy relaxes and the pump sees batt voltage all the time, when the fuel pump is supposed to be running, that is.
The resistor relay either sends full batt voltage to the fuel pump or cuts it down to approx 9vdc. During Start the pump sees full batt voltage til the engine starts and then it falls to the 9vdc. No matter. The fuel rail pressure will still be approx37-39psi in either case when starting the car. I don't see that relay resistor causing a fuel smell. Either the charcoal canister is missing in action or you've a fuel leak.
The ECU sends a gnd signal to the relay to drop the voltage from batt voltage to the approx 9vdc. It's a green/red wire I think. Disconnect that wire and the realy relaxes and the pump sees batt voltage all the time, when the fuel pump is supposed to be running, that is.
07-20-08, 09:35 PM
#4
Next time you hear the ticking.........reach over and pull the electrical plug off the BAC. It will stop ticking.
The resistor relay either sends full batt voltage to the fuel pump or cuts it down to approx 9vdc. During Start the pump sees full batt voltage til the engine starts and then it falls to the 9vdc. No matter. The fuel rail pressure will still be approx37-39psi in either case when starting the car. I don't see that relay resistor causing a fuel smell. Either the charcoal canister is missing in action or you've a fuel leak.
The ECU sends a gnd signal to the relay to drop the voltage from batt voltage to the approx 9vdc. It's a green/red wire I think. Disconnect that wire and the realy relaxes and the pump sees batt voltage all the time, when the fuel pump is supposed to be running, that is.
The resistor relay either sends full batt voltage to the fuel pump or cuts it down to approx 9vdc. During Start the pump sees full batt voltage til the engine starts and then it falls to the 9vdc. No matter. The fuel rail pressure will still be approx37-39psi in either case when starting the car. I don't see that relay resistor causing a fuel smell. Either the charcoal canister is missing in action or you've a fuel leak.
The ECU sends a gnd signal to the relay to drop the voltage from batt voltage to the approx 9vdc. It's a green/red wire I think. Disconnect that wire and the realy relaxes and the pump sees batt voltage all the time, when the fuel pump is supposed to be running, that is.
Is disconnecting the G/R wire a permanent fix for the voltage drop? Does doing that pretty much bypass a faulty resistor?
07-21-08, 11:37 AM
#6
Next time you hear the ticking.........reach over and pull the electrical plug off the BAC. It will stop ticking.
The resistor relay either sends full batt voltage to the fuel pump or cuts it down to approx 9vdc. During Start the pump sees full batt voltage til the engine starts and then it falls to the 9vdc. No matter. The fuel rail pressure will still be approx37-39psi in either case when starting the car. I don't see that relay resistor causing a fuel smell. Either the charcoal canister is missing in action or you've a fuel leak.
The ECU sends a gnd signal to the relay to drop the voltage from batt voltage to the approx 9vdc. It's a green/red wire I think. Disconnect that wire and the realy relaxes and the pump sees batt voltage all the time, when the fuel pump is supposed to be running, that is.
The resistor relay either sends full batt voltage to the fuel pump or cuts it down to approx 9vdc. During Start the pump sees full batt voltage til the engine starts and then it falls to the 9vdc. No matter. The fuel rail pressure will still be approx37-39psi in either case when starting the car. I don't see that relay resistor causing a fuel smell. Either the charcoal canister is missing in action or you've a fuel leak.
The ECU sends a gnd signal to the relay to drop the voltage from batt voltage to the approx 9vdc. It's a green/red wire I think. Disconnect that wire and the realy relaxes and the pump sees batt voltage all the time, when the fuel pump is supposed to be running, that is.
I never asked the obvious question, would you mind explaining how the BAC is related to the resistor relay?
07-21-08, 11:46 AM
#7
HAILERS
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I never asked the obvious question, would you mind explaining how the BAC is related to the resistor relay?
************************************************** ***********
It isn't. Did I write that somewhere? I was in a daze if I did. Or is that in the Relationship Chart somewhere?
************************************************** ***********
It isn't. Did I write that somewhere? I was in a daze if I did. Or is that in the Relationship Chart somewhere?
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07-22-08, 02:56 PM
#8
I never asked the obvious question, would you mind explaining how the BAC is related to the resistor relay?
************************************************** ***********
It isn't. Did I write that somewhere? I was in a daze if I did. Or is that in the Relationship Chart somewhere?
************************************************** ***********
It isn't. Did I write that somewhere? I was in a daze if I did. Or is that in the Relationship Chart somewhere?
07-23-08, 06:51 AM
#9
HAILERS
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I'm Suggesting the BAC is doing the ticking NOT the resistor relay. You hear the ticking from the airfilter, not the Fuel Pump Resistor Relay. BAC is not related to the Fuel Pump Resistor Relay in any way.
07-23-08, 07:17 AM
#10
Wire monkey
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It's possible the FD fuel pump is running higher pressure on the fuel lines on idle and may have cause the pulsation damper to leak might be worth a check for leaks ?
07-27-08, 12:18 PM
#11
Rotary Freak
One thing I forgot to write. IF the clicking does NOT stop with the BAC plug disconnected, then my guess was Wrong.
What causes the relay to open/shut, is a ground signal from the ECU on the green/red wire in the fuel pump resistor/relay plug. So if it's still clicking with the BAC plug off, it could be a gnd signal from the ECU to it.........or a intermittent gnd on the relay causing it to *chatter* or some other thing I might think of later.
With no load on the engine, the relay should be pulled in by the gnd from the ECU. When the ECU sees load, then the gnd on the green/red wire is removed by the ECu and the relay relaxes and now full voltage goes to the pump instead of the 9vdc approx, that is sent to the pump when it's pulled in with the gnd from the ECU.
So, I was curious if it was the BAC or actually was the relay chattering.
What causes the relay to open/shut, is a ground signal from the ECU on the green/red wire in the fuel pump resistor/relay plug. So if it's still clicking with the BAC plug off, it could be a gnd signal from the ECU to it.........or a intermittent gnd on the relay causing it to *chatter* or some other thing I might think of later.
With no load on the engine, the relay should be pulled in by the gnd from the ECU. When the ECU sees load, then the gnd on the green/red wire is removed by the ECu and the relay relaxes and now full voltage goes to the pump instead of the 9vdc approx, that is sent to the pump when it's pulled in with the gnd from the ECU.
So, I was curious if it was the BAC or actually was the relay chattering.
07-31-08, 02:50 AM
#13
One thing I forgot to write. IF the clicking does NOT stop with the BAC plug disconnected, then my guess was Wrong.
What causes the relay to open/shut, is a ground signal from the ECU on the green/red wire in the fuel pump resistor/relay plug. So if it's still clicking with the BAC plug off, it could be a gnd signal from the ECU to it.........or a intermittent gnd on the relay causing it to *chatter* or some other thing I might think of later.
With no load on the engine, the relay should be pulled in by the gnd from the ECU. When the ECU sees load, then the gnd on the green/red wire is removed by the ECu and the relay relaxes and now full voltage goes to the pump instead of the 9vdc approx, that is sent to the pump when it's pulled in with the gnd from the ECU.
So, I was curious if it was the BAC or actually was the relay chattering.
What causes the relay to open/shut, is a ground signal from the ECU on the green/red wire in the fuel pump resistor/relay plug. So if it's still clicking with the BAC plug off, it could be a gnd signal from the ECU to it.........or a intermittent gnd on the relay causing it to *chatter* or some other thing I might think of later.
With no load on the engine, the relay should be pulled in by the gnd from the ECU. When the ECU sees load, then the gnd on the green/red wire is removed by the ECu and the relay relaxes and now full voltage goes to the pump instead of the 9vdc approx, that is sent to the pump when it's pulled in with the gnd from the ECU.
So, I was curious if it was the BAC or actually was the relay chattering.
When it was doing the clicking noise I'm almost positive it was coming from resistor relay. I've got an Apexi Power Intake and a custom TID. With no airbox I was able to get my ear way down near the source I don't think it was coming from anywhere but resistor relay.
One thing I did change, I was using my N350 MAF and I replaced it with a Cosmo MAF. I had to grind down the intake side of the Cosmo MAF. It flared out on the intake side and wouldn't fit on the Apexi. With the keen eye of a friend I also learned that the rubber gasket on the end of the N350 MAF was removable and would fit on the Cosmo. I had to modify the bars that mount the MAF to the Apexi because the Cosmo MAF is shorter than the N350. It's all hooked up air-tight. It might be the auto hypocondriac in my, but I drove the car for a day with the Cosmo MAF and it seems to idle more evenly, and have more smooth acceleration. I've read that the Cosmo MAF runs more rich than the RX MAF, but I figure in my case running rich is better than running lean. I've got a JAW wideband ordered and am waiting for it to show up so I can learn some DIY electronics. Some fuel control will come after I've got the wideband running.
The non-starting I'm starting to wonder if it is the interlock switch? I'll be checking into testing that soon.
The fuel smell...possibly the dampener going bad or fuel injectors. I've become paranoid about a gas fire toasting my car. It's an S5, but I'm tempted to pick up a spare fuel rail and try a banjo bolt and switch the fuel system to AN fittings to see what that does. Possibly picking up an Aeromotive FPR that has dampening designed into it.
The fuel injectors are a concern because they sit rather loose. With the fuel rails bolted down I can spin the all 4 injectors in their mounts. I've got precious little experience with such things, but that doesn't seem normal.
Thanks again for everyone's input while I track down what are probably multiple issues
07-31-08, 02:02 PM
#14
Rotary Freak
I can spin the fuel injectors in any of my cars. They will NOT be dead solid ridgid. It's the 0'ring at the top of the injector that should seal the fuel. Maybe a clarification. The fuel injectors will rotate but not flip flop around. Move but not be dead tight.
New lower and upper grommets help, but they should not be dead tight in their bores.
Seems to me, if the intake is off, you can jumper the yellow fuel pump check connector and key to ON. No fuel leaks should be seen. Leave the key ON for ten/fifteen minutes.
New lower and upper grommets help, but they should not be dead tight in their bores.
Seems to me, if the intake is off, you can jumper the yellow fuel pump check connector and key to ON. No fuel leaks should be seen. Leave the key ON for ten/fifteen minutes.
08-01-08, 02:25 AM
#15
I can spin the fuel injectors in any of my cars. They will NOT be dead solid ridgid. It's the 0'ring at the top of the injector that should seal the fuel. Maybe a clarification. The fuel injectors will rotate but not flip flop around. Move but not be dead tight.
New lower and upper grommets help, but they should not be dead tight in their bores.
Seems to me, if the intake is off, you can jumper the yellow fuel pump check connector and key to ON. No fuel leaks should be seen. Leave the key ON for ten/fifteen minutes.
New lower and upper grommets help, but they should not be dead tight in their bores.
Seems to me, if the intake is off, you can jumper the yellow fuel pump check connector and key to ON. No fuel leaks should be seen. Leave the key ON for ten/fifteen minutes.
Lately I've been messing around more with this subwoofer enclosure to get that project's clutter out of my work area. But man do I have a hard time getting motivated to mess with fiberglass resin, filter masks, gloves, etc when it's near 100 out with humidity that you can cut with a knife.
08-11-08, 01:08 AM
#16
Well, I got frustrated with my sub enclosure. I'm trying to build an enclosure for a Boston Acoustic Pro 8". Maybe I'll start another thread for that topic.
Things related to this topic. I bought an N370 BAC to replace my N374 that is on my S5 JDM 13B. I popped off the N374 and found that the JDM UIM doesn't have a corresponding hole to accomodate the N370 BAC idle adjust screw.
While messing around and letting my engine warm up I heard the electrical clicking noise. I'm sure it was coming from the airfilter and resister relay area. But Hailers was right....I unplug the BAC and the sound goes away.
Why is the BAC chattering created by the airfilter and resistor relay? With there being no "idle adjustment" possible seeing how there is no screw opening on either the N374 BAC or the JDM UIM....what are the consequences of removing the BAC and putting on a blockoff plate? Will it still cause problems with idle?
Things related to this topic. I bought an N370 BAC to replace my N374 that is on my S5 JDM 13B. I popped off the N374 and found that the JDM UIM doesn't have a corresponding hole to accomodate the N370 BAC idle adjust screw.
While messing around and letting my engine warm up I heard the electrical clicking noise. I'm sure it was coming from the airfilter and resister relay area. But Hailers was right....I unplug the BAC and the sound goes away.
Why is the BAC chattering created by the airfilter and resistor relay? With there being no "idle adjustment" possible seeing how there is no screw opening on either the N374 BAC or the JDM UIM....what are the consequences of removing the BAC and putting on a blockoff plate? Will it still cause problems with idle?
08-11-08, 04:51 AM
#17
Nekurd
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If you are positive that you are getting fuel through the system, have a steady fuel pressure to spec., and are positive that you don't have any vacuum leaks, then I believe your CAS might be out of wack. I've noticed with my car, which had MANY problems, would start up then die even if I had a vacuum leak, well if it is small enough, just by having the CAS and TPS to spec. BUT if you had a professional build the block for you, then I'd advise you to probably not mess with the CAS or TPS.
When you actually get it to idle, is there a lot of smoke that comes out the exhaust or is it clean? The cleaner your exhaust gets usually means the closer you are to the factory timing specs, if that is indeed your problem.
When it comes to the fuel smell, can you say which side? Is there a visual leak and if there is, which side is in on. I had something similar happen to me and it turned out that one of the Primary Injectors (the ones that are hidden under the manifolds which makes it a biznotch to get to and see) had a ripped o-ring which caused fuel to leak and caused my fuel pressure to drop. Swapped out the o-ring and everything got better.
When you actually get it to idle, is there a lot of smoke that comes out the exhaust or is it clean? The cleaner your exhaust gets usually means the closer you are to the factory timing specs, if that is indeed your problem.
When it comes to the fuel smell, can you say which side? Is there a visual leak and if there is, which side is in on. I had something similar happen to me and it turned out that one of the Primary Injectors (the ones that are hidden under the manifolds which makes it a biznotch to get to and see) had a ripped o-ring which caused fuel to leak and caused my fuel pressure to drop. Swapped out the o-ring and everything got better.
08-11-08, 12:02 PM
#18
HAILERS
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BAC has a duty cycle. It opens and shuts at about 120hz. When you go to START, it holds full open, which by the way isn't very far when looking at the diaphram in the BAC as it goes open. Never pry on the diaphram.
The more LOAD on the engine at IDLE, the longer the BAC stays open vs closed.
http://www.teamfc3s.org/info/articles/idle.html
The more LOAD on the engine at IDLE, the longer the BAC stays open vs closed.
http://www.teamfc3s.org/info/articles/idle.html
Last edited by HAILERS; 08-11-08 at 12:07 PM.
08-12-08, 03:20 PM
#20
Last night turned into taking an upset friend out for "a drink" after work, which then ended with me not coming home till dawn.
Long story short, I pulled my battery out and left it disconnected for about 2 weeks. I was cleaning my engine compartment. With my previous engine I had once blew an oil cooler line and then shattered my rear iron at the oil filter pedastal. I could barely work on my engine without getting filthy. The battery was many years old and that put it over the edge to it's death. Before Sunday I hadn't driven the car in 2 weeks, and I only drove the car long enough to see that the battery wasn't holding a charge anymore.
Here's a link to a thread seeking opinions on Optima batteries. If anyone has experience with them I'd appreciate some feedback.
https://www.rx7club.com/2nd-generation-specific-1986-1992-17/optima-battery-opinions-needed-778870/https://www.rx7club.com/showthread.php?t=778870
Long story short, I pulled my battery out and left it disconnected for about 2 weeks. I was cleaning my engine compartment. With my previous engine I had once blew an oil cooler line and then shattered my rear iron at the oil filter pedastal. I could barely work on my engine without getting filthy. The battery was many years old and that put it over the edge to it's death. Before Sunday I hadn't driven the car in 2 weeks, and I only drove the car long enough to see that the battery wasn't holding a charge anymore.
Here's a link to a thread seeking opinions on Optima batteries. If anyone has experience with them I'd appreciate some feedback.
https://www.rx7club.com/2nd-generation-specific-1986-1992-17/optima-battery-opinions-needed-778870/https://www.rx7club.com/showthread.php?t=778870
08-18-08, 02:09 PM
#21
Friday I picked up an Optima redtop, 910 CA I believe it is. I've been driving the car daily since then with no major issues. No fuel smell, no trouble turning over, though I did hear the electric ticking noise today, unplugged the BAC when I got home and haven't driven the car again since then.
08-23-08, 12:45 AM
#22
Update:
I found part of my many problems. I had a steadily increasing exhaust leak near the manifold and turbo. I feared worst case scenarios, but found that it was in fact the downpipe on the RB exhaust. The 3 bolts had started to back off.
I just found it today a few hours before work so I haven't really had a chance to drive the car much. So far as I can tell, the idle is much better, accelerates much smoother with more torque.
I just got a pair of 550cc injectors back from being cleaned and such, they will go in the primaries over the weekend. That's when I'll test for leaks again.
Oh and I should finish the subwoofer enclosure this weekend also.
I found part of my many problems. I had a steadily increasing exhaust leak near the manifold and turbo. I feared worst case scenarios, but found that it was in fact the downpipe on the RB exhaust. The 3 bolts had started to back off.
I just found it today a few hours before work so I haven't really had a chance to drive the car much. So far as I can tell, the idle is much better, accelerates much smoother with more torque.
I just got a pair of 550cc injectors back from being cleaned and such, they will go in the primaries over the weekend. That's when I'll test for leaks again.
Oh and I should finish the subwoofer enclosure this weekend also.
08-30-08, 07:13 PM
#23
Update: I got 2 550cc injectors back from being cleaned and dropped them in my primaries earlier today. I jumpered the fuel pump and let it sit for bout 30min or so. No leaks. I'll have to drive the car some to see if I'm still getting any trouble turning over. Still getting that electrical ticking noise that disappears when I unplug the BAC.
Hailers, will disconnecting that green/red wire fix the ticking noise as well as fix the the 9 volt drop?
Next time you hear the ticking.........reach over and pull the electrical plug off the BAC. It will stop ticking.
The resistor relay either sends full batt voltage to the fuel pump or cuts it down to approx 9vdc. During Start the pump sees full batt voltage til the engine starts and then it falls to the 9vdc. No matter. The fuel rail pressure will still be approx37-39psi in either case when starting the car. I don't see that relay resistor causing a fuel smell. Either the charcoal canister is missing in action or you've a fuel leak.
The ECU sends a gnd signal to the relay to drop the voltage from batt voltage to the approx 9vdc. It's a green/red wire I think. Disconnect that wire and the realy relaxes and the pump sees batt voltage all the time, when the fuel pump is supposed to be running, that is.
The resistor relay either sends full batt voltage to the fuel pump or cuts it down to approx 9vdc. During Start the pump sees full batt voltage til the engine starts and then it falls to the 9vdc. No matter. The fuel rail pressure will still be approx37-39psi in either case when starting the car. I don't see that relay resistor causing a fuel smell. Either the charcoal canister is missing in action or you've a fuel leak.
The ECU sends a gnd signal to the relay to drop the voltage from batt voltage to the approx 9vdc. It's a green/red wire I think. Disconnect that wire and the realy relaxes and the pump sees batt voltage all the time, when the fuel pump is supposed to be running, that is.
08-30-08, 07:56 PM
#24
HAILERS
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IF you disconnect the green/red wire, then you'll have a full 12vdc all the time. Idle, cruise, hot rodding, whatever. No green/red wire means the relay won't ever pull in. Not a big deal imho.
Don't worry about the ticking coming from the BAC. It has zip to do with your problems. All BAC on all RX tick, click, buzz. They are supposed to do that. Except when the key is HELD to START. Then it goes full open to let more air in for starting the engine.
No need to cut the green/red. Just depin the wire from the elect plug. PUll it out and put a piece of tape over the end of the wire (it's a gnd signal so even that isn't really required).
Don't worry about the ticking coming from the BAC. It has zip to do with your problems. All BAC on all RX tick, click, buzz. They are supposed to do that. Except when the key is HELD to START. Then it goes full open to let more air in for starting the engine.
No need to cut the green/red. Just depin the wire from the elect plug. PUll it out and put a piece of tape over the end of the wire (it's a gnd signal so even that isn't really required).
08-31-08, 04:27 AM
#25
IF you disconnect the green/red wire, then you'll have a full 12vdc all the time. Idle, cruise, hot rodding, whatever. No green/red wire means the relay won't ever pull in. Not a big deal imho.
Don't worry about the ticking coming from the BAC. It has zip to do with your problems. All BAC on all RX tick, click, buzz. They are supposed to do that. Except when the key is HELD to START. Then it goes full open to let more air in for starting the engine.
No need to cut the green/red. Just depin the wire from the elect plug. PUll it out and put a piece of tape over the end of the wire (it's a gnd signal so even that isn't really required).
Don't worry about the ticking coming from the BAC. It has zip to do with your problems. All BAC on all RX tick, click, buzz. They are supposed to do that. Except when the key is HELD to START. Then it goes full open to let more air in for starting the engine.
No need to cut the green/red. Just depin the wire from the elect plug. PUll it out and put a piece of tape over the end of the wire (it's a gnd signal so even that isn't really required).