I tried a thread in general automotive, but didn't get any replies...figured I toss it into the area I frequent most.....

I've got an 89 vert with a JDM S5 13B swapped into it. I recently upgraded to an FD alternator. I've got an aftermarket alarm, aftermarket boost gauge, will be adding a wideband and other gauges...all in time.

I've got a decent sized stereo system. I'm using 2 amps now and will be adding a 3rd once I finish building a sub enclosure. I've got 4 gauge power to the amps, using the OEM power cable, but changed the power going to the engine fuses to 8 gauge. The ground coming off the battery is 4 gauge, 4 gauge grounding the engine to firewall. Will be adding 4 gauge from the battery to the alternator before I put a new battery in.

I just wanted to hear from some people who have used them. Are they worth the $200 price tag? My Sears battery is toast and wanted to know if the marketing and claims on Optima's site are true? I was using a larger than OEM spec Diehard Gold battery, though I'm not sure of it's specs offhand. It's their one for SUVs, but it's many years old and has certainly been put under a strain by my stereo setup.

 

ive been running the red tops for years with out any problems (the rx7 has 3 amps 1sub) i even swap it out between my toyota 4x4 (lots of lights winch etc..) and the rx7

 

Optima..got one..it is Good for One thing#1:.Battery Relocation,since it doesn't give off Gas.(old Dry cells Acid filled batteries do.).the Battery is heavy,so it is not the Best for the Stock location..#2: you are running an FD alternator.The Alternator is going to put out whatever the Car and it's accessories Need.The battery will Get charged 'so much" as it only requires an amount to return to it's original Status.(After starting the car.)..the Alternator will be supplying the Stereo and **** that you have,and will Only Supply What It NEEDS..To a Maximum of what the alternator Puts out..If the stereo is Sucking 130 amps(Way high.Stupid Number for example) then the alternator will not be adequate,as it only puts out 100-110 amps..The Optima is a Tough Battery.I didn't pay 200 but IF I had to,Ya..but I got mine used,and in Great shape.I relocated it to the Passenger bin..If you are running High Power stereo equipment,just make sure that your Wires are adequate,and keep it separate from the Stock wiring..(don't try to power the Amp through the Little wires off the stock stereo!).Run a decent gauge wire to the Battery,so the power amp gets it's own little circuitry...I Don't know If that Helps at all.But Hey!.I answered and posted.Right?.Cheers.STYX.

 

I use the red top in both my TII and the GXL. I got no complaints.

 

I put a yellow top in my BMW for the same reason, I had a sound system that was 2000W+ RMS and it worked great, I never had any problems, I also had a 1 farad capacitor though.

now it's 5 years later and it's in my 7 which I don't drive very often and the battery is starting to die, it looses charge pretty easily, but as long as I drive with it regularly, it's fine.

of note: the battery also sat for about 2 or 3 years, so I would say it did pretty well.

 

I got one about 2 months ago and need to return it because its not holding a charge. My charging system is at 14.8 and as soon as the car turns off the voltage goes to 11 volts in a matter of minutes. Hopefully it won't happen again.

 

I'm running a yellow top.

Purchased it at a speed shop a number of years ago while finishing a TV show build in the city.......my alt. had died and I was 1.5 hours from home and needed to get back PRONTO. I slapped the Optima in right off the shelf and drove home sans alternator.

Four years later that same battery powered my friend's FC on a road trip for 45 minutes after his stock alt. shat out on him.

That same battery also served as my jumper battery all winter for my diesel Jetta on days it was too cold to start.

That same battery is also currently in my smae 7, and spins the engine over faster then anything I've ever used.


Worth it? oh gawd yes.

 

on my old 89 F-150 my 150amp alternator blew it's voltage regulator, pinning my voltmeter at/above 18v. I didn't notice until sometime later, and opened the engine compartment to find the optima hissing and spitting out the two little vents it does have, along with the case having balooned a little bit. After a quick Kragen replacement alternator to get home, the battery lasted and charged fine until I sold it with the truck sometime later.

It's not so much that "Optimas" are better, just that gel-cell construction is better.

 

not commenting on the battery, but what power are your amp's pulling ?
Id be upping your battery and your main power cables to your amp's.

depending on the amps Id be running 2 gauge or dual 4 gauge.

 

thanks for the replies

I've got 2 amps in now, a JL Audio Slash 300/2 thta power a set of Boston Pro 6.5 components and tweets on the doors, an Alpine V12 that came with the car when I bought it, not sure the specs on it. It's a 4 Channel that only powers my underdash Boston Pro 4" mids and OEM headrest speakers with the fader adjusted for whether I'm on the highway or not. I keep the Alpine gains turned way down so that it's more fill in music. I'm guessing the Alpine is about 30 watts per channel

I'm in the process of building an enclosure for a Boston Pro 8" woofer and that will be powered by either a Zapco Studio 150 or the JL 300/2. If anyone is interested, I'm tempted to try and build a fiberglass enclosure that will mount the Boston 8" directly into the cockpit of the car. It will require cutting and modding my rear deck cover so I'm not sure if I have the motivation to make it happen. For now and just to get it up and running I'm building an enclosre that will sit behind the driver seat , in the well that is covered by the rear deck cover.

OH and as far as gauge cables. I've got 4 gauge coming off the battery and matching 4 gauge ground which grounds to the OEM location (on the driver's side shock tower). I've also got a 4 gauge ground running from the one of the housings (rear plate, but possible one of the rotor housings) to the firewall.

The 4 gauge power is seperate from the OEM power and is solely for my amps. I've got a distribution block located under the rear deck that splits into four seperate 8 gauge cables. 2 of those cables run to the JL amp and Alpine amp. 2 of those goes to a 1 farad cap. I've got the capacitor grounded with 4 gauge cable.

forgot to mention.....

Once I have the Boston 8 running I'll add a 4 gauge power cable from the battery to the alternator. I'd like to replace the OEM power cables coming off the battery, but I need to do more research first. For now I've got 8 gauge replacing the OEM wiring running to the main engine fuses. I'm in the process of learning to read electrical schematics so I can learn where the larger OEM positive cable runs. Rather than run additional 4 gauge to the alternator, I'd like to replace the OEM positive wires all together.

 

i'm rockin a red top... no problems... i'm running one amp and sub, aftermarket lights all over the place, fog lights are ususally on, and the voltage rarely drops below 14V

I also have an FD alt

 

Red Top for 6 years now- no probs here

 

Bought the red top a week ago, and so far its great. The engine turns over alot faster, compared to the old shitty mazda battery. I'm sure this battery will outlast any other battery out there, unless of course its a yellow top or blue top.

 

All good JustJeff, a quick tip to find out how much your amps are pulling. Look at the fuses on them

just add all the fuses up and will give you a good idea of what max amps your electrical system should be designed for.

 

That's so simple that it never struck me, thanks for the heads up

 

I picked up a redtop last Fri., I stopped in the local car stereo shop I frequent for advice and the installer advised a redtop over a yellow...which seemed odd. Got a good price at Advanced Auto, $130 with my core and a $25 rebate.