so i have a rebuild streetport s4 it has yet to run yet its started and ran for a minute a couple times but wont stay running. so i tryed a different fuel pump a walbro 195 lph and people said thats to low flowing so i ordered 255lph walbro and i got it in yesterday and got it all rigid up and wont turn on at all even if i jump the jump connector.

 

One thing to check would be the 15 amp Engine fuse. This fuse powers the fuel circuit.

 

sure will and i can here the fuel pump relay come on but it wont start pumping i had it out of the tank when i was tryin to get it to run does it need to be in the tank ?

 

No, but it must be grounded and the Blue wire that is part of the Front harness which supplies the voltage to the fuel pump needs to have battery voltage on it when the key is turned to "on" and the fuel pump check connector jumpered. Also, the ngine fuse appears good from what you hear.

 

yea well i was checkin my fuses yesterday i just completely wrecked my fuse box trying to pull the middle black fuse out it was fucked up so now i have to find out of those. and where is this blue wire located? left or right side of the motor

 

The Blue wire I speak of runs from the Circuit Opening Relay located to the right of the steering wheel column and runs to the rear of the car where it mates with the fuel pump pigtail harness.

 

okay well i didnt mess up my fuse box just the main fuse got a new one dont kno if i got the right one i gotta 80 watt and i think it might be a 100 watt fuse but ima search for that and thank u hopefully i can get this figured out i wanna cruise !

 

The main is an 80A bolt-in fuse, so if yours fits, bolts in, and is 80A you are good.

 

*sigh*

before you go ripping the whole damn car apart, let start here:

before you swapped the fuel pump the car would at least start for a few seconds, after you put the pump in it wouldn't turn over at all. ok, now stop and think. pull the pump out and inspect your work again. by jumpering the yellow 2 pin test connector you should be able to hear the pump running in the tank with the ignition key in the on position, do you hear it running? no, then check voltage at your power wires. you were getting voltage before you swapped the pump again so something is wrong there.

just last week i dealt with a walbro installation gone bad where the person wired the pump up to the red wire off the top of the tank thinking it was a power wire. unfortunately with mazda you would be totally incorrect, power wires are Black/White or Black/Yellow typically and this case is no exception.

FIRST thing you should do is retrace your steps whenever you do something and the result is worse than before.

 

yea i just found that out that its the black/white wire and i .04 voltage from that to the fuel pump ground. also i didnt do anything but take out the old fuel pump and put a new one in and used different wire connectors and wire do u think it would matter if there gold connectors or not because thats wat was on the stock one. also is there 2 relays the fuel pump runs off of i notice a relay in the back by where the fuel pump sending unit connectors connect.

 

okay i think i just figured it out the relay behind the head light that helps run the fuel pump if im correct and when i got the car they had this electric radiator fan rigged up so it ran all the time off of the relay behind the head light. i got a new radiator that had a connection to my wiring harness so when i got that i ripped out that relay because it had long wires all over the place. now i just need to figure out how to rewire it back so it works how its supposed to.

 

that would be it. gotta love it when people do stupid **** with wiring that can put your motor in a pinch if that relay failed mid boost let alone siphoning voltage from that critical relay causing your fuel pump output to be low.

 

hell yea dumbass ******* this makes me so mad because now i cant figure out how to wire it back in. becuase the way they had it wired was crazyy i dont get it they had one wire goin to the fuse in the fuse box that isnt used for anything and then i dont even kno how they did it

 

just find the original color wires and connect them back together, i attempt this first and disregard any other BS that people have done to bypass circuits. you'll usually find out that the original circuits were perfectly fine.

 

yea ive been searching and searching for the original wires i cant seem to find em do u kno if it was connected through a connector

 

all i have in the shop right now is an FC with a microtech and that was ditched long ago so i can't get a reference at the moment.

it should have been hooked up via a 5 or 6 prong oval plug on series 4's that came off the harness just below the relay at the RF headlight.

 

dang kk thanks for all the help though hope i can figure this **** out