I have asked before but got mixed ansewers...Is this bad. Yes I will try and fix the pcv system but why is thier bad fuel smell? Can someone walk me throu the process of the fuel getting into the oil please?

 

i think i got fuel in my oil too...

 

me too...i just rebuilt mine about 7000 miles ago

 

anyone?

 

Every rotary i have changed the oil in has guel in the oil.

At least the smell of it.

I think its because the side seals and oil seals are seeping.

Compression is lost a bit there.
this means that the air/fuel mix is getting into the oil system.

I have smelled this on every oil change in older cars.

Someone correct me if im wrong.

 

The oil smells like gas because it has been FLOODED a few times.

Flooding is bad, because it washes out the layer of oil film on the housings, and creates momentary excessive friction which is REALLY BAD.

It reduces oil viscosity which is BAD. It also wastes gas which is BAD.

BAD, BAD, BAD, BAD!!!!!

AAAAAHHHHHH!!!

 

Oil in the coolant is worse

 

WTF ARE U GUYS TALKING ABOUT??? Can someone really ansewer this ? with a POSSIBLE SOLUTION...My compression is NOT LOST, NOR HAS MY CAR EVER FLOODED. Its a rebuilt 89 egnine with 18,000 miles on it and runs super strong...When I open the oil cap I see drops of fuel fall down from condensation...WHAT CAN I DO BESIDES ITS VERY BAD TO HAVE FUEL IN YOUR OIL?
Thnx for the replys by the way.

 

THIS JUST STARTED HAPENING THREE THOUSAND MILES AGO. I dont want to go to my mechanic because he charges me 3-500 bucks everytime I see him. I have a phobia now.

MY Car does get bad gas mileage and runs rich...around 16.5 on the freeway but has been like that forever.

 

i'm with von...i don't have 18000 like he does...just a mere 7000 as stated above...never flooded since the rebuild...basically, same thing as von exactly, just with less miles...

 

First off, this DRIPPING thing that your talking about is, well.... the first i heard of THAT.

Had you said this earlier, I would have set you straight on this point...

Fuel does NOT condense.

It evaporates and does not return to liquid state unless SUPERcooled.

Like, colder that it has ever gotten wherever you are.

You possibly have steam leaking into your oil from a leaking water jacket.

The liquid smells like fuel because there is ALWAYS a fuel smell in rotary oil, and the water has picked up this smell.

This dripping liquid can only be WATER...
Water leads us to the water jacket...
The water jacket leak leads us to a bad seal...

Fear leads to anger...
Anger leads to hate...
Hate leads to suffering.
-Yoda

uhh..
Anyway.. since the water in a rotary is not splashed by a crankshaft, you wouldnt get FOAMING like you would see in a piston engine...

Drain ALL the oil, let it settle, pour it from one container to the other slowly when you get to the bottom.

See if you get water beads in the bottom of the bucket.

Let me know how this turns out.

 

Then I will do this in a couple of days and tell u...thxn..I will post it on this thread so make it notified please.
The dark side clouds everything
yoda

 

and thiers alot of white goo in filler neck.

 

white goo points to coolant also. same w/ piston engine

 

sniper x i have not always agreed with what you say but, this is totaly wrong.

it's
fear leads to anger...
anger leads to marijuana..
marijuana leads to munchies...
lol

james

 

AAARRRRRGGGHHH!!!

"and thiers alot of white goo in filler neck"


I just LOVE these tidbits of information AFTER THE FACT.

YOu dont even need to bother checking now...

You DO HAVE WATER IN THE OIL.

Absolutely positivly, no doubt.

If i were you, i would try some of the more "fluid" types of stop leak in the engine.

Dont use the pellet kind.

Get the kind that requires you to leave the system open and empty for a few hours after.
read the instructions on the bottles and see if any suggest this.

I beleive its in a silver / metal can with a pull top.

This MIGHT solve your problem without a rebuild.

 

One of the byproducts of combustion is water, as you sometimes see dripping from the tailpipe a short while after starting your car.

There is always a small amount of blow-by at the side seals, and short of a coolant leak, thats how water vapor gets in contact with the oil. The vapors are kept from condensing by normal operating temperatures, and are then vented out.

If you only drive short distances, the water vapor (and other stuff) will condense on the cooler internal parts, combining with the oil, and creating bad stuff in your motor. If that's the case then a few long drives might clear it out. Once I see that white gunk in the tube, I'd wanna change the oil pretty quick tho, just in case.

 

Yes, but with the white stuff there, thats more than usual, even for short distance driving.

There might be a PCV valve problem though.

 

PCV valve

 

I stand corrected....

 

PCV....hhmm...... what the hell does that **** do? all i know is that it ***** honda boy's idle up when the PCV valve is fucked around..... Thanks, sorry for the ignorant question...

 

Water in the oil filler tower is not unusual. It is usually a bad purge valve (on first gens) could be pcv on second gens, I have not dug in to mine that far yet.
It is just condensation, happens more on cars that are driven short trips. They never heat up enough. Same theory as condensation in the exhaust.

Fuel smell in the oil, IS usually indicative of a flooding situation. I just repaired a GSL-SE first gen with this problem. The "rotary" mechanics told this girl the engine was shot, no compression. They could only get it started with squirting oil in the plug holes and pull starting it. ON the surface low compression seems to be the problem. BUT, the reality was all that was wrong was the battery cables were shot. NO Ground = not enough rpm's to start a FI. Anyway, when I changed the oil it was very thin, reeked of gas, and had an orange tint to it. This was caused by the flooding situation.
Live and learn,
hanman

 

based on whats hapenning with my GSL-SE and from what I have read, this is a sealing problem. The compression is pretty good for the mileage on the motor and I have no problems whatsoever but I have fuel dilution in oil even though it's not flooding. In fact, the oil level does not drop much even after 1k miles and I know for sure the omp works. I even heard of a couple of 3rd gen guys showing oil level increase rather than decrease. If you plan on keeping the car for a while, start saving for a rebuild and change oil every 1000 miles.

 

******* GREAT.


By the way...I drive 25 miles one way...then 25 miles back everyday...no more no less.