Fuel Filter
05-13-06, 09:23 AM
#1
most triumphant
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Fuel Filter
anyone know how hard it is to change a fuel filter...or can anyone give me a bit of a walk through?? i heard from a few people taht may be the problem with my car...
Zak
Zak
05-13-06, 09:30 AM
#2
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well I just bought one to change and looking at it, the jobs not gonna be that bad. Looks like you jack the car up and do all the work from underneath. The reason why I havent done it yet is because of the mods on my car. Trying to figure out a way to jack my car up safely due to the fact that I dont have a lift. Its located by the driverside strut tower down below.
05-13-06, 09:36 AM
#3
most triumphant
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i see. well i guess its to my advantage that my car is bone stock in this situation...lol actually im going to have a diagnostic run first before i do the fuel filter. diagnostic is on monday...so car is going to sit in the driveway untill that happens
Zak
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05-13-06, 10:17 AM
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most triumphant
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yah i gotta read through my haynes, and my workshop manual a bit more thoroughly...
Diagnostic test is on monday, before i spend cash might as well get it tested
Zak
Diagnostic test is on monday, before i spend cash might as well get it tested
Zak
05-13-06, 12:02 PM
#6
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Read the FSM in the sticky at the top of the 2nd gen section. Basically you unplug your fuel pump while the car is idiling to let pressure go from the lines. Then you take the fuel filter and it's cradle off with 2 10mm nuts that are a pain to get to well one of them at least. Replace and prime the fuel system, and your done. Good luck.
05-13-06, 12:59 PM
#7
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Originally Posted by 88t2romad
go buy a haynes manual, or somehting like that. Its really easy.
No need for that Haynes....
it's like opening a faucet and closing it back...
Last edited by LAN; 05-13-06 at 01:08 PM.
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05-13-06, 01:15 PM
#8
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I don't know why all you people go thru the trouble of killing the pressure in the fuel system...Since you're obviously JUST changing the fuel filter, 99% chance you haven't changed the fuel lines yet. Just make a slit with a knife, and let it drain into a bowl for a few seconds...
Woot! No more fuel system pressure, and it's a lot easier to pull off a cut hose then a non-cut hose
Woot! No more fuel system pressure, and it's a lot easier to pull off a cut hose then a non-cut hose
05-13-06, 07:26 PM
#9
Originally Posted by adrock3217
I don't know why all you people go thru the trouble of killing the pressure in the fuel system...Since you're obviously JUST changing the fuel filter, 99% chance you haven't changed the fuel lines yet. Just make a slit with a knife, and let it drain into a bowl for a few seconds...
Woot! No more fuel system pressure, and it's a lot easier to pull off a cut hose then a non-cut hose
Woot! No more fuel system pressure, and it's a lot easier to pull off a cut hose then a non-cut hose
Let the car sit overnight and you can slit the line, or just change the filter with minimal loss.
05-13-06, 08:16 PM
#11
Originally Posted by RED1990GTU
Or you can just depressurize the system like the FSM says to do.
06-02-06, 01:35 PM
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So... basqueinmyFC, were you able to change the filter successfully? I'm exactly at the same place, just bought the filter, now pondering, how the heck am I going to pull this off... and not having enough tools on hand, certainly makes me think twice before moving on...
Thanks!
Thanks!
06-03-06, 08:09 AM
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changed my filter last weekend was easy as pie from underneath the car. Just unplug the fuel pump and run the lines out, youll be fine. The only extra fuel youll have is the stuff in the filter.
06-03-06, 01:09 PM
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no just disconnect the pump in the rear of the car, plug is under the plastic on the driverside shock tower(inside the car). what i meant by running the lines out is start the car til the fuel runs out while pump is disconnected.
06-03-06, 01:25 PM
#18
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I had a hell of a time changing my fuel filter for the first time...didn't depressurize the system(won't make that mistake again)...didn't prime the system(almost killed the battery) and F@#$% those little clamp clips that go on the ends of the hoses...easy to take off but a bitch to get back on...
06-03-06, 01:26 PM
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you can actually just google it because this is the same for rotaries and pistons
be careful, and if youre unsure of something, shell out the cash for a professional
be careful, and if youre unsure of something, shell out the cash for a professional
06-03-06, 05:10 PM
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I have changed the filter many times without depressurizing. It helps a bit if you let the car sit overnight. Get yourself some tapered plugs to plug up the rubber hoses and the filter itself. Have ready a coffee can or similar container to catch any excess fuel. I usually collect about 3-4 ounces. Jack it up under the front left corner. Don't forget the safety stands. Sorry to state the obvious...but not smoking or open flame sources!!
You need a standard pair of pliers to slide back the hose clamps. Be sure to remove the feed hose first (the one closest to the tank). If it has been a while since replacing the filter, you may need to twist the hose a bit to break the seal/bond between the metal tube and the rubber hose. Plug up the rubber hose and the metal outlet on the filter. Use 10 mm wrenches (combo or ratchet...you can sort that out fairly quickly) to remove the 2 nuts. Don't use an adjustable wrench. Slide the filter off the flex mount studs. Use your pliers to loosen the other hose clamp and remove the filter. Plug the rubber line. Take a moment to wipe off any fuel you got on your arms. Install in reverse order. Good luck.
You need a standard pair of pliers to slide back the hose clamps. Be sure to remove the feed hose first (the one closest to the tank). If it has been a while since replacing the filter, you may need to twist the hose a bit to break the seal/bond between the metal tube and the rubber hose. Plug up the rubber hose and the metal outlet on the filter. Use 10 mm wrenches (combo or ratchet...you can sort that out fairly quickly) to remove the 2 nuts. Don't use an adjustable wrench. Slide the filter off the flex mount studs. Use your pliers to loosen the other hose clamp and remove the filter. Plug the rubber line. Take a moment to wipe off any fuel you got on your arms. Install in reverse order. Good luck.
06-03-06, 05:28 PM
#21
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Rerun just gave the complete run down, except I would ALWAYS let it sit for a night or so to insure minimal fuel loss (that and spraying yourself in the face with fuel isn't all that fun). Just make sure to prime when your ready to start it back up and you really don't have to depressurize.
06-03-06, 08:05 PM
#22
Ok... I too have been waiting for this project.. I am still in the middle of it, and now I have encountered a problem... The rubber mounts that hold the fuel filter to the chassis were both very brittle, so as I unbolted it, it shredded the rubber mounts off... 
Any advice anyone?
Any advice anyone?
06-03-06, 08:30 PM
#23
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If you need to get the car back on the road:
Use some vise grips to remove the remaining threaded piece in the chassis. It's just bolted on. Find yourself some metric bolts that has a length about 1 -1.25 inch long. Of course, you need the same thread type. Bolt the filter onto the chassis with some washers as spacers. This is because the filter bracket is a channel shape and you may want the washers as a standoff. This is not a permanent fix as now your filter is not longer isolated from vibrations.
Go online to the McMaster-Carr site and find some replacement pieces. Search under "rubber isolators" and go to page 1250 under "vibration damping mounts". I don't recall the actual part number but they are available in SAE and metric. You may want to get an extra pair since they are so cheap. Once you get the parts, you should be able to install them without disconnecting the fuel lines again.
If you don't need to get the car back on the road. Just order the parts and same yourself some hassles.
Use some vise grips to remove the remaining threaded piece in the chassis. It's just bolted on. Find yourself some metric bolts that has a length about 1 -1.25 inch long. Of course, you need the same thread type. Bolt the filter onto the chassis with some washers as spacers. This is because the filter bracket is a channel shape and you may want the washers as a standoff. This is not a permanent fix as now your filter is not longer isolated from vibrations.
Go online to the McMaster-Carr site and find some replacement pieces. Search under "rubber isolators" and go to page 1250 under "vibration damping mounts". I don't recall the actual part number but they are available in SAE and metric. You may want to get an extra pair since they are so cheap. Once you get the parts, you should be able to install them without disconnecting the fuel lines again.
If you don't need to get the car back on the road. Just order the parts and same yourself some hassles.
06-03-06, 10:23 PM
#24
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oh when i started mine, i had to cut my fuel lines off, but the new fuel lines that i bought were a size too big....AND my entire gas tank emptied out even though i depressureized and all that goodness....was a disaster, but i got it done and now it will be a cinch the next time.
zak
zak
06-03-06, 10:30 PM
#25
Eats, Sleeps, Dreams Rotary
yo cant you just plug the fuel line take out the filter then put the new one on. Yes your gonna have some fuel spill out but its not gonna drain your tank lol. Ima do my FF soon also.
If you depressureize the system isnt that just to minimize the amount of fuel spilled?
Jason NYC
If you depressureize the system isnt that just to minimize the amount of fuel spilled?
Jason NYC
Last edited by ROTARYROCKET7; 06-03-06 at 10:37 PM.