where is it exactly, and would it cause one of my rotars to act retarded and not run making me have a total of probly 50 horsepower and 0-60 time like 1 minute. i was at a trafic light and when i pulled away not even romping on the engine i had massive poewr cut but the car runs but it idles at 250rms if u dont think this is the problem tell me. ples i need help i have 0 transportation as of now. sept of course the shame train aka looser crueser akaaka the school bus!!!! i have a 87 n/a with 120,000 miles on her.

 

ack, 250rpm idle? thats not normal! it could be a lot of thing though, but it sounds like one of your rotors has 0 compression..?

 

I would have to agree. My 88 GTU did the same thing, fine one minute, limp home the next. No big bang or fire or smoke. Kind of sucks.

BTW, I had 177,000 on it.

 

yes but when i let it sit and i start it up again it runs like brand new. im thinking thats when the filter is not clogged. but i could be wrong and i could have a really big problem ion my hands. lol but lets hope not.

 

where exactly is the fuel filter located i could look for it in the dark or just ask someone? seems easier

 

Its under the car on the driver's side....look for a lil blak cube thingy...

 

It's more of a canister shape if you ask me. There is also a fuel filter in tank attached to the fuel pump. Get your injectors cleaned as well.

 

Clogged fuel filter(s) and exhaust (cats) manifest themselves in a loss of power under loads, usually not at idle...

When's the last time a 60K tuneup has been done? Compression check?

 

i bought the car about 7 months ago took out the blown engine and put in a 120,000 mile engine from the junkyard. the old engine was unrebuildable!!! so ill probly end up rebuilding this one. when its stops working properly but i dont think its the engine yet.should i clean all 4 injectors or the 2 i can get to withought tearing everything apart.cuz i kinda have to do it all next weekend. thanks for the advice ill replace the filter and clean the 2 injecors i cna see if that does nothign ill tear it apart and clean the other 2. and get a compressions test soon.

 

the tank did sit for 2 yaers with barley any gas in it and all i did was put some injecter cleaner in and filled the tank up.

 

you empty the tank out first. then clean it. after a while gasoline becomes like laqer thinner or someshit.

 

you will have to take off the uim to get to any of the injectors. From what I've heard is that you can get fine compression (or at least higher compression) at start up but then when it worms up your compression could be shot. I would get a cheap *** boinger compression tester and then go to www.rotaryresurrection.com and see how he does the compression test. If everything checks out fine then go from there. If that engine was sitting for a long time you may want to do what others have said and do the 60,000 mile tune up. aka. sparkplugs, wires, air filter, fuel filter and fuel sock, oil filter and oil change with castrol 20w50, do the atf trick for some added compression. Maybe even change the fuel pump and clean the gastank and injectors.

 

The filter is on the drivers side, right where the firewall meets the floor panel.....right on the frame. Also, the 250rpm idle...I'd go ahead and safely say you have no compression. Time to test them.

 

It could be a few things. Bad spark plugs, bad plug wires, bad ignition coil, you blew an apex seal, bad gas, fried ECU. It most sounds like you blew an apex seal, but check all the other possibilities first.

-Joe

 

You should have said that in the first place. No need to guess anymore...

Install new or rebuilt/cleaned injectors, replace both fuel filters, check your pump static pressures, and you'll probably be good to go

 

You might as well send all your injectors out to be cleaned at www.cruzinperformance.com or www.rceng.com No point in only having 2 cleaned when you have to take the UIM of anyways. Get new orings and grommets as well. The fuel injector cleaners in a bottle dont really do much.

 

i will try to do this stuff but my moms bf told me if its not the fuel filter or the fuel pump hes making me take it to mazda so they fix it right. cuz i need the car like yesterday and the only time i have to work on it is saterday and sunday.he is stuck on its the fuel filter even if i try to mention its the injectors or something hes like nope its the filter.so we will see i hope hes right. but i should clean the gas tank! ill mention it to him. thanks guys for the inof its greatly appretiated. btw how is mazda in fixing the rx7 do they know what they are doing!!! if i have to take that road. thanks!

 

It is a pretty good bet that your local Mazda dealer will not know diddle about your 17 year old car. Chances are there will not be a single RX7 trained mechanic in the place. Folks here have given good advice and tell your Mom's bf he does not know diddle either.

The money you will save by changing the fuel pump sock and fuel filter, and possibly cleaning the gas tank yourself will pay for the few buck you may have to pays friends to take you to school/work. Make sure your only trip the the Mazda dealer is to buy the fuel filter.

 

They will tell you, you need a new motor.

Mazda dealer mechanics are some of the most clueless dealership mechanics in the world. The only time my car ever sees a Mazda dealer is when I am in the parts department buying parts. Never ever ever ever ever take the car to a Mazda dealer.

 

haha ok i will tell him mazda dealers suck and not to go there. would my car even start if my pump was messed up?

 

+1 don't take it to mazda... if he told you that, then he doesn't have a clue.

that being said there's alot of basic **** that needs to be changed on that car so you might as well go ahead and replace that filter (and other basic maint items...).

 

I dont believe you can idle at 250rpm.

 

If your tach looks like its on the very bottom of the biggest mark it isnt 200. It's actually closer to 500rpm. I know this because that is what my SAFC2 read when I had idle problems a while back. The stock tach compared to my SAFC2 tach is lower by about 150-200rpm.

 

I don't understand what the big deal is about Mazda techs. I work at a Mazda dealership in the parts dept. and we have two older techs in the Service dept. that not only have an understanding of Mazdas, they actually raced RX-2s and RX-4s years ago and know the engine inside and out. I would hand my car over to them any day if there was a serious problem I don't know how to fix.

I mean, they have the special tools and knowledge as well as experience, so why not trust them? Maybe I am just blessed for actually knowing two Mazda techs that have been Mazda techs for like thirty years and no other dealer out there has this kind of experience working for them....I understand you all are giving very good advice and information, but you shouldn't tell people not to do things if you have had a bad experience in the past. Good help for our cars is out there working at Mazda dealerships, but you just have to ask around to find the right people if you can't do it yourself.

 

When I think of Mazda dealerships, I usually think new mechanics that don't know anything about rotaries. Even if they have the rx8 out, it'll take time for them to actually learn enough to deal with rotaries. I guess you're lucky dorkman52000 to know mechanics that have actually dealt with such things.