Johny zoom

iTrader: (5)

Ok I have a Walboro fuel pump (rewired like 1300's site) I have an Safc, FCD, boost gage (10 psi is what I usually max out at,) new fuel filter 720's secondarys stock primarys. Its an 87 T2

I have always had a 6500 rev limit/ fuelcut or wall, that is not too big of a deal...BUT yesterday while driving around town I got fuel cut any time I would get boost, I could hear the relay click on and off as I was driving. The relay is realay,resistor is behind me in the hatch compartment. I did this several times I KNOW the the relay would click and then start to stumble/stuttter. I will be tracking my car soon and would like to do a PERMANT fix. My Questions are...

Why cant the fuel pump be wired to run all the time? I'll get a in line fuel pump regulator if necessary.

Is the problem MY FCD, Boost sensor, computer, safc,? There is a restrictor in the line to the boost sensor.

All help greatly appreciated

Johny

HAILERS

If you insist on not wanting the voltage to drop down to approx 9volts when not in boost, all you have to do is extract/cut the wire at the ECU that puts a ground on the relay/resistor pack when the engine is in the boost mode.

That would be pin 3D on a series four. Series five? Got me. But your just one wire away from a constant voltage. IMHO it sounds like a *too much fuel situation* as it stands now.

Johny zoom

iTrader: (5)

Hailers again to the rescue

So you' telling me that the ckicking is the adding of fuel and not fuel starvation? I can cut 3d pin wire and and check it if it still happens I'll know its not starvation but thwe opposite

Thanks

HAILERS

That was 3D for a series four. A series five is pin???????????. Frankly, I would not cut it. I'd get a jewelers very small common screwdriver and extract that wire. You pull the plug off the ECU. Then look into the mating side of the plug. There is a small plastic lever that you can hold down with the small screwdriver and then pull the wire out from the other end. Each wire socket has its own little plastic lever FYI.

Pin 3D is for a series four. Series five??????? anyone can pipe in that knows which pin on a series five.

What you can do is put a meter on the input wire to the fuel pump while idling. You'll see a voltage of approx 9-10volts at idle. Then pull the wire out of the plug (assuming you've already unlocked it with your jewelers screwdriver and reinstalled the plug on the ECU). The voltage should jump up to battery voltage when the wire is extracted.

I suspect your car will now idle a bit different after the wire pull and you have a Waldo pump in the tank. It's gonna be richer. Been there....done that using just a stock fuel pump. The pressure in the rail rises and the afr rises with it. Seen both. One on a fuel pressure gauge and the other on a wideband.

Johny zoom

iTrader: (5)

OK
Thats my project for today I keep you posted. Yes it is a series 4 87t2 as stated in first post

Anyone else care to comment?

yearrgh

Was it boosting higher then normal? You might have knocked the vacline off the waste-gate actuator

Johny zoom

iTrader: (5)

No normal boost 10 psi

Johny zoom

iTrader: (5)

Update

I removed 3d wire still had problem stumbling & stuff So I changed plugs, I remembered I had done the water injection earlier The plugs were carbon fouled bad, I also adjusted TPS and reinstalled 3d wire. I also ran it with and without FCD SO..................

Now I get missing and stumbling at about 0 boost after I get past there it pulls fine and in a vacuum it seems to pull ok . I'm going to ohm my tps tomorrow perhaps a dead spot in the TPS ?

Thanks again

Johny zoom

iTrader: (5)

bump up

Johny zoom

iTrader: (5)

once more