Fuel Cut Switch keeps Blowing 15AMP Engine Fuse?
12-19-03, 08:30 PM
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Fuel Cut Switch keeps Blowing 15AMP Engine Fuse?
this problem happened before and i couldnt figure out why.. so i took it to a friend of mine and he charged me like 40.00 to fix that ****... it happened last night agian and i did the ATF trick and it wouldnt start.. so i checked that 15AMP Engine fuse near the drivers feet area..and it was blown.. put in a new one and it sure as hell started...
any idea why the fuel cut switch would be blowing the Engine Fuse?
any idea why the fuel cut switch would be blowing the Engine Fuse?
12-19-03, 09:05 PM
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Originally posted by Scott 89t2
connected the wrong wires?.... probbaly something shorted out
connected the wrong wires?.... probbaly something shorted out
12-19-03, 10:08 PM
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i use my switch for its intended purpose which is hot start problems... (leaky injectors which flood when car is hot) anyways...
i use it all the time.. when i shut my car off i flip the switch to cut the fuel and shut the car off.. basically i use it like its supposed to be used... but anyways...
any way i can prevent this?
i use it all the time.. when i shut my car off i flip the switch to cut the fuel and shut the car off.. basically i use it like its supposed to be used... but anyways...
any way i can prevent this?
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12-19-03, 11:56 PM
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Originally posted by Icemark
bad switch mounted to metal?
what is the rating of the switch?
bad switch mounted to metal?
what is the rating of the switch?
would it be wise to get a diff switch? and what rating should the switch be?
the switch is currently mounted to the streering wheel surrond.. the plastic peices that make up the steering wheel trim around the shaft and all...the switch is mounted right next to the ignition..
i was loving my kill switch until this happened.. so yeah...
thanks
12-20-03, 12:17 AM
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Originally posted by boosted1205
Which wire did you use for the switch? Under the dash near with the yellow connector? You should always use a relay and use the negative for the switch.
Which wire did you use for the switch? Under the dash near with the yellow connector? You should always use a relay and use the negative for the switch.
i simply got the Fuel pump wire and split it and wired a switch...
12-20-03, 09:46 PM
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NA or turbo?
If it's a turbo, you should be running a 20A fuse, so that explains the problem.
I would throw in a 20A fuse just to see if it stops doing it.
If it still blows, check the wiring to the switch. I had to troubleshoot a similar problem, and it turns out the fricken switch was causing the shorts. These are the lighted toggle switches that require three wires (+12VDC source, ground, and switched) - if you wire the source and switch leads backwards, this will cause all kinds of headaches cause the switch lead shunts to the ground when you switch it off (STUPID DESIGN!). So, by design, when switched on, the switch connects source and switched; when you turn it off, the switched lead is connected to ground. I would pull the ground wire to do a quick check to see if this is your problem. The ground wire is only required if you want to switch to light up.
-Ted
If it's a turbo, you should be running a 20A fuse, so that explains the problem.
I would throw in a 20A fuse just to see if it stops doing it.
If it still blows, check the wiring to the switch. I had to troubleshoot a similar problem, and it turns out the fricken switch was causing the shorts. These are the lighted toggle switches that require three wires (+12VDC source, ground, and switched) - if you wire the source and switch leads backwards, this will cause all kinds of headaches cause the switch lead shunts to the ground when you switch it off (STUPID DESIGN!). So, by design, when switched on, the switch connects source and switched; when you turn it off, the switched lead is connected to ground. I would pull the ground wire to do a quick check to see if this is your problem. The ground wire is only required if you want to switch to light up.
-Ted
12-21-03, 05:41 AM
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Originally posted by RETed
NA or turbo?
If it's a turbo, you should be running a 20A fuse, so that explains the problem.
I would throw in a 20A fuse just to see if it stops doing it.
If it still blows, check the wiring to the switch. I had to troubleshoot a similar problem, and it turns out the fricken switch was causing the shorts. These are the lighted toggle switches that require three wires (+12VDC source, ground, and switched) - if you wire the source and switch leads backwards, this will cause all kinds of headaches cause the switch lead shunts to the ground when you switch it off (STUPID DESIGN!). So, by design, when switched on, the switch connects source and switched; when you turn it off, the switched lead is connected to ground. I would pull the ground wire to do a quick check to see if this is your problem. The ground wire is only required if you want to switch to light up.
-Ted
NA or turbo?
If it's a turbo, you should be running a 20A fuse, so that explains the problem.
I would throw in a 20A fuse just to see if it stops doing it.
If it still blows, check the wiring to the switch. I had to troubleshoot a similar problem, and it turns out the fricken switch was causing the shorts. These are the lighted toggle switches that require three wires (+12VDC source, ground, and switched) - if you wire the source and switch leads backwards, this will cause all kinds of headaches cause the switch lead shunts to the ground when you switch it off (STUPID DESIGN!). So, by design, when switched on, the switch connects source and switched; when you turn it off, the switched lead is connected to ground. I would pull the ground wire to do a quick check to see if this is your problem. The ground wire is only required if you want to switch to light up.
-Ted
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