fuel computer
#1
Blue 7
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fuel computer
So I'm at the point where I'm going to order a new fuel pump and at least bigger secondaries, but will it do much good without a fuel controller. I'm thinking I don't want to completely change out my stock computer. I have very little knowledge at tuning and I don't have faith in any local shops in my area that I think I would trust. I figured that Piggy backing would be fine. But with the little knowledge that I have on this subject, I was looking for some good imput. I have a 90 s5 tII. I have some upgrades so far including aluminum fly wheel, koyo radiator, fmic and blow off valve, 3 inch exhaust, hallman pro rx boost controller, and a fcd. The next things I need to do is port my wastegates andupgrade my fuel system which I was hoping for some info on. Thank you, and yes I have been searching, I'm always reading and learning great stuff from all of you.
#3
Blue 7
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I'm doing my part. thanks for the link. Your using the motec right, that is a standalone correct, not a piggy back. I saw that you completely rewired your engine, is that because of the new ecu or just to redo it. I can do wiring, but I'd prefer to limit the amount of wiring that I would need to do.
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most people use safc if you are doing a fuel computer but you can also use a megasquirt, haltech f10x... if you are planning some more serious modifications in the future go to a full standalone. if you are not comfortable tuning yourself find the closest tuner that you can trust and ask him/her what they prefer and run that. fwiw i run a haltech e6x. im going to swap it out for a haltech e8 in a couple of weeks though. car is a s5 tii.
#5
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Thank you for the imput. How much wiring was involved with the haltech. I have no idea what it takes to hook one of these up. If I can find a decent tuner in my area I would prefer to go all out with a standalone as long as the wiring isn't just crazy.
#6
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The Haltech, like most other true standalones, requires you to replace the stock EFI (properly called the "emissions" harness) harness with it's own.
There are plug and play solutions but all rely on questionable stock wiring and will cause problems (in my experience).
The S-AFC is a good choice for basic fuel control and you can always resell it if you decide to go with a standalone.
There are plug and play solutions but all rely on questionable stock wiring and will cause problems (in my experience).
The S-AFC is a good choice for basic fuel control and you can always resell it if you decide to go with a standalone.
#7
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my harness was in TERRIBLE shape. I was gonna do a RTeK just to start off. But wires were literally crumbling in my hands. Seems like most S4s are pretty bad.
There is NO wiring required for RTEK. (not that I know of anyway)
The MoTeC on the other hand, you do have to rewire the EFI harness, like Aaron said.
It's fun!
There is NO wiring required for RTEK. (not that I know of anyway)
The MoTeC on the other hand, you do have to rewire the EFI harness, like Aaron said.
It's fun!
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#8
I ran rtek 1.7 for a while with safc2 and it worked fine. The rtek has no wiring involved but there is a small amount of wiring involved with the safc only about 30 minutes worth. I just steped up to the haltech e6x, if you are going to do more extensive upgrades in the future I would suggest geting a standalone now and having it done.
#9
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Yeh eventually I plan on upgrading the stock turbo and getting some porting done when I have the engine rebuilt, I don't know if those upgrades would require me to go with a standalone or not. I looked at a web site for the rtek I believe and the ones they had covered the earlier models, they didn't have anything listed for my year that I saw, but there was something that was coming soon. (1990) Also I don't know if the fact that I have a jspec engine makes a difference. Thanks again for all the feed back.
#10
I know rtek had something in the works for the s5 about a year and a half ago I hadn't checked that for a while I would call them and see if they have it yet all you have to do is remove the ecu and send it to them it takes about a week and a half to get it back after they recieve it and you just plug it back in no tuning required. Make sure they know what size injectors you will be using so they can set it up right. I think the rtek will work for you if you don't take the mods any further than porting the wastegate, I would go standalone if you plan on doing any engine porting though.
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if you want to save yourself some of the hassel of wiring on a standalone, look for someone pulling one out of the same model of car. if they label every connector and all the wires that they had to clip the install should not be to bad.
#12
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That sounds like a good idea. Just wondering, do the standalones come with pretty precise instructions on wiring it up. I can do wiring, and I can follow instructions, but I don't want to have to figure out what goes where on my own. I had to do that when I rewired the rear of the car because when I did my swap the rear harness didnt match up the same. luckily most colors were the same, but not all of it.
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http://www.hitman.hm/13BHints.htm
haltech's website also has a wiring diagram
it really isnt that bad. also the haltech section is really helpful
haltech's website also has a wiring diagram
it really isnt that bad. also the haltech section is really helpful
#14
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Thanks for the link there was some really good info on there. It sounds to me like going with the E6K allows me to use stock ignition components, and not have to switch things up to work. This would be the way I would like to go. I tried downloading the map for the e6k but my crappy computer said it couldn't find the attachment file. I'm going to check out haltechs website and see if I can't find anything good there.
#15
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Ok. $1395.00. That is most definetely more than I expected. Well I'm real serious about setting up my car for the local track so I'll just have to be real nice for santa this year. The only problem is I know I'm blowing all this money just to end up killing myself in this thing.
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