2nd Generation Specific (1986-1992) 1986-1992 Discussion including performance modifications and technical support sections.

Fucked Up Afr's

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Old May 27, 2006 | 04:08 PM
  #1  
rx7jocke's Avatar
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3-Rotor madness
Tenured Member 15 Years
 
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From: sweden
Fucked Up Afr's

14.7 at idle... (okay i guess)
10.3-11.8 at cruising (WTF jerking a bit but is driveable)
12.8-13.8 at WOT (NOT safe i guess)

thats the result of my test run with my new mods

Mods:
Stock port S4
New style greddy FMIC
Greddy TD06 turbo kit @ 10.5PSI (the car pulls like crazy...my friends 300hp nissan 240sx ended up in my rear view mirror untill i looked at my wideband and let of!)
Walbro 255 LPH
Rtek 1.7
720 seacodaries
3" turboback and TID
No Airpump or ACV
TB-mod
Accel 8.5mm ignition wires
NGK BUR9EQ spark plugs

What could be the reson? The tps? The injectors maxed out?The Rtek maxed out :-D ?

I will install my haltech E6K and my 720cc-1000cc injector combo when i past my emissions...hope it will help but i wan't to fix this problem now.
Any ideas
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Old May 27, 2006 | 04:57 PM
  #2  
Cosmo_TT's Avatar
BRAAAAAP pssh BRAAAAAP
Tenured Member 15 Years
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From: cali
i would think 550/720 combo might not be enough i know people who use hybrids and are using 4x720 or 4x1000 and they are at 300whp
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Old May 27, 2006 | 05:02 PM
  #3  
FC3S Murray's Avatar
5 and counting.
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From: Montana
13.5 is safe, just watch carefully.
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Old May 27, 2006 | 05:21 PM
  #4  
HAILERS's Avatar
HAILERS
Tenured Member 10 Years
 
Joined: May 2001
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From: FORT WORTH, TEXAS,USA
14.7 at idle is ....strange at best IF you have no airpump or acv on the engine. IF you do have the airpump and acv it is not STRANGE at all.

Why not go to your variable resistor and, with a fully warm engine, and the AFR gauge working turn the variable resistors screw clockwise. The AFR should change as you do so.

And just to check things out, start your car from stone cold with the AFR gauge working. The AFR should read in the 12's or therebouts until the water temp gets above 120 where the afr's should jump up a full point or better. I'm guessing at the 120degrees. Memory here. But I'm looked in the past on a stone cold engine and driven the car til the water temp gets to somewhere around that figure and the afr always jumps up a couple of points.

If the car is seeing 14.7 stone cold and warmer at idle..............there's something amiss with the wideband.

Another thing, usually if I take too much fuel out, the car bucks but if I put in too much fuel it does not buck but more or less boggs. Just the opposite of what you wrote. Just something I noticed.
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Old May 27, 2006 | 05:37 PM
  #5  
rx7jocke's Avatar
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3-Rotor madness
Tenured Member 15 Years
 
Joined: Jun 2004
Posts: 391
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From: sweden
i have NO air pump... and this is when the engine is warm, when cold its about 12 in afr.
The car idles at about 1200rpm due to my full TB-mod ( i will fix this yes)
Okay it doesn't bucks its more like when you prime a 2 stroke motocross ;-)..sounds like GRRRR!

Will install my EGT tomorrow to and adjust my TPS.... did past my emissions with 2.8 in HC(here in sweden it could be as high as 4.5 and its the only exhaust gas we measure)

Next weekend it'll be time for my haltech!
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Old May 28, 2006 | 04:33 AM
  #6  
rx7jocke's Avatar
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3-Rotor madness
Tenured Member 15 Years
 
Joined: Jun 2004
Posts: 391
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From: sweden
Are you SURE that 13.5 is SAFE for 10PSI with my mods!!!!!
I thought that 11.0-11.5 was SAFE.
Wierd
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