Frontend work update
07-01-18, 12:57 PM
#1
Rotary Enthusiast
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Frontend work update
I last posted on this job about a month ago (https://www.rx7club.com/2nd-generati...tions-1126748/). Just to rehash, I had replaced front LCA bushings, ball joints and outer tie rod ends on my 90 S5. I did the S5 to S4 LCA "upgrade" in Aug 2009. So, it has been nearly 9-years or almost 79k miles since I last replaced these items. I installed the Mazda 40% stiffer LCA front (FBY1-34-470) and rear (FBY1-34-460) bushings, ball joints (Moog K9427) and outer tie rod ends (AC Delco 45A0572).
While doing this job, I noticed that my inner tie rods were noticeably loose, but with no detectable "slop". I last replaced both L&R inner tie rods in May 1999 or about 198k miles ago. I really should have replaced them too, but didn't think about it at the time. The last time I did this job, I removed the R&P steering unit from the car. This time, I decided to do the job without removing the R&P steering unit from the car.
I ordered Moog inner tie rods (EV204) and Moog bellows (K980156 (L), K8581 (R)) from Summit Racing. Got an email back from Summit saying that the Moog inner tie rods had been discontinued. Couldn't find them anywhere else at the time. So, I ordered AC Delco inner tie rods (AC Delco 45A0548) from Rockauto. They cost $37 each or about half the price of Mazda. At the time, Rockauto didn't have a listing for Moog inner tie rods, but I noticed that they do now. I also ordered a PU rack bushing set from Ricochet that I bought on Ebay (https://www.ebay.com/i/122942212416?chn=ps) for $29.
Before starting this job, I did some searching on Google. Don't know why everyone was making this job so difficult. They sell inner tie rod removal tools, but none that will fit the FC3 24mm tie rod. One guy wrote that he bought a Craftsman 24mm combination wrench and ground the open end part down to access the tie rod nut. Another guy did a U-Tube video using a low-profile inner tie rod tool similar to the Cal-Van p/n 946 (https://www.summitracing.com/parts/c...yABEgKbb_D_BwE). So, I too ordered this tool, but never used it. None of this is necessary!
This job turned out to be really super easy and with no special tools required. I cutoff the plastic Mazda bellows with a box cutter and loosened the inner tie rods with a 12" Crescent wrench. The tie rods have 24mm hex next to the threaded end that screws into the rack, which is same as diameter of the rack shaft. Installed the new tie rods with the same wrench and tightened them down very good. I installed them as an assembly with bellows and outer tie rod end intact. The AC Delco rods were about a 1/4" longer than the Mazda rods so had to take that into consideration during assembly. IIRC, they're supposed to be torqued to 80 lb.ft., but I didn't have a 24mm crow's foot with me. There is a little locking pin in the rack that needs to be pushed down once the rod is reinstalled. I just used channel locks for this. The Moog bellows are rubber, which in my opinion are a big improvement over the Mazda bellows. The plastic Mazda bellows were always a PITA to install. With a little spray lube, the Moog rubber bellows slide on very easily. Getting the bellows on the left side of the rack was a bitch, but after some manhandling it finally went on. The Moog bellows used tie wraps to fasten them to the rod and rack. I Also installed the PU rack bushings. Actually, I did this at the beginning of this job. Right side was super easy, but left side took some maneuvering to remove/install the u-clamp from the rack due to very close quarters. Took me about 6-hours to do this job on a very hot day, but I was in no hurry either.
Afterwards, I took the car for a test drive. Steering was off-center (i.e., center at about 11 o'clock position) a little due to alignment, but otherwise a huge improvement! My steering is now super tight! So, I got a wheel alignment yesterday. My toe-in was off about half degree for each wheel. Much better after the alignment. Steering is great now!
Guys, this is a super easy job. I encourage everyone to checkout their tie rods and ends and replace them if necessary. This will make a big improvement in your car's steering performance.
While doing this job, I noticed that my inner tie rods were noticeably loose, but with no detectable "slop". I last replaced both L&R inner tie rods in May 1999 or about 198k miles ago. I really should have replaced them too, but didn't think about it at the time. The last time I did this job, I removed the R&P steering unit from the car. This time, I decided to do the job without removing the R&P steering unit from the car.
I ordered Moog inner tie rods (EV204) and Moog bellows (K980156 (L), K8581 (R)) from Summit Racing. Got an email back from Summit saying that the Moog inner tie rods had been discontinued. Couldn't find them anywhere else at the time. So, I ordered AC Delco inner tie rods (AC Delco 45A0548) from Rockauto. They cost $37 each or about half the price of Mazda. At the time, Rockauto didn't have a listing for Moog inner tie rods, but I noticed that they do now. I also ordered a PU rack bushing set from Ricochet that I bought on Ebay (https://www.ebay.com/i/122942212416?chn=ps) for $29.
Before starting this job, I did some searching on Google. Don't know why everyone was making this job so difficult. They sell inner tie rod removal tools, but none that will fit the FC3 24mm tie rod. One guy wrote that he bought a Craftsman 24mm combination wrench and ground the open end part down to access the tie rod nut. Another guy did a U-Tube video using a low-profile inner tie rod tool similar to the Cal-Van p/n 946 (https://www.summitracing.com/parts/c...yABEgKbb_D_BwE). So, I too ordered this tool, but never used it. None of this is necessary!
This job turned out to be really super easy and with no special tools required. I cutoff the plastic Mazda bellows with a box cutter and loosened the inner tie rods with a 12" Crescent wrench. The tie rods have 24mm hex next to the threaded end that screws into the rack, which is same as diameter of the rack shaft. Installed the new tie rods with the same wrench and tightened them down very good. I installed them as an assembly with bellows and outer tie rod end intact. The AC Delco rods were about a 1/4" longer than the Mazda rods so had to take that into consideration during assembly. IIRC, they're supposed to be torqued to 80 lb.ft., but I didn't have a 24mm crow's foot with me. There is a little locking pin in the rack that needs to be pushed down once the rod is reinstalled. I just used channel locks for this. The Moog bellows are rubber, which in my opinion are a big improvement over the Mazda bellows. The plastic Mazda bellows were always a PITA to install. With a little spray lube, the Moog rubber bellows slide on very easily. Getting the bellows on the left side of the rack was a bitch, but after some manhandling it finally went on. The Moog bellows used tie wraps to fasten them to the rod and rack. I Also installed the PU rack bushings. Actually, I did this at the beginning of this job. Right side was super easy, but left side took some maneuvering to remove/install the u-clamp from the rack due to very close quarters. Took me about 6-hours to do this job on a very hot day, but I was in no hurry either.
Afterwards, I took the car for a test drive. Steering was off-center (i.e., center at about 11 o'clock position) a little due to alignment, but otherwise a huge improvement! My steering is now super tight! So, I got a wheel alignment yesterday. My toe-in was off about half degree for each wheel. Much better after the alignment. Steering is great now!
Guys, this is a super easy job. I encourage everyone to checkout their tie rods and ends and replace them if necessary. This will make a big improvement in your car's steering performance.
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