front spindle nut detorquing
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front spindle nut detorquing
hey guys i have an 89 na that i just put new stance coilovers on. Well about a week or two after i put them on the wheel bearings on the front started making noise. I took the front wheels off and sure enough the nut was loose as hell. I did the pre-load procedure to both sides. The problem comes in now that the drivers side keeps coming detorqued. Has anyone else had this problem? Can i just torque the nut down harder? Any help would be appreciated. Thank you.
#2
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If you followed the preload procedure exactly per FSM and have the castellated nut and cotter pin, then the bearings may be worn.
They feel tight until you put weight on them and then when you shake the wheel/tire (not steering wheel) you feel play, right? Any noise when parking or pulling into a driveway (a single click noise), or vibration when braking? This, of course, after ensuring there's no play or (disk) runout anywhere else. Took me a while to figure out. And my bearings don't really make the usual humming noise.
This is my case, so I'm replacing the bearings (incl. inner and outer races) on both sides after my car wakes up from hibernating over the winter.
They feel tight until you put weight on them and then when you shake the wheel/tire (not steering wheel) you feel play, right? Any noise when parking or pulling into a driveway (a single click noise), or vibration when braking? This, of course, after ensuring there's no play or (disk) runout anywhere else. Took me a while to figure out. And my bearings don't really make the usual humming noise.
This is my case, so I'm replacing the bearings (incl. inner and outer races) on both sides after my car wakes up from hibernating over the winter.
Last edited by pfsantos; 02-10-15 at 12:35 PM. Reason: Added more info.
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there is a a noise while driving the car that comes and goes when the noise happens it goes away when turning left. Also there is no play when i first tighten up the wheel its after i drive it for awhile.
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I haven't replaced anything yet.. i have removed and repacked the one bearing and since that side is easy accessible it is "easy". I just don't know how to get to the back bearing is all.
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#8
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Wait. You mean replacing the front inner bearing? Calling it rear causes confusion cuz we think rear wheel bearing lol.
There's a writeup somewhere on a few ways to get the outer race on the inner bearing out of the hub by grinding, heating/cooling or welding.
Edit: https://www.rx7club.com/2nd-generati...te-up-1001970/
Also, mazdatrix site has info.
There's a writeup somewhere on a few ways to get the outer race on the inner bearing out of the hub by grinding, heating/cooling or welding.
Edit: https://www.rx7club.com/2nd-generati...te-up-1001970/
Also, mazdatrix site has info.
#10
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You're welcome. Don't forget the mazdatrix writeup also I mentioned. Here:
https://www.mazdatrix.com/faq/frontbrg.htm
Keep in mind some of us don't like to grind into the hub. I'd try the hub in the oven method first. Worked for many. Al expands more than Steel, and the race usually just falls off or by tapping the hub onto a piece of wood. Just clean it up nicely before putting in the oven.
https://www.mazdatrix.com/faq/frontbrg.htm
Keep in mind some of us don't like to grind into the hub. I'd try the hub in the oven method first. Worked for many. Al expands more than Steel, and the race usually just falls off or by tapping the hub onto a piece of wood. Just clean it up nicely before putting in the oven.
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my friend welds a bead on the inner race, so then it either shrinks, or you have something to hammer on
#12
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Beat me to it. It's a slick trick... if you can weld, have access to a welder, or know a welder that has one.
Works for all sorts of pressed in ring type stuff. We use it at work to get out die bushings. Take it to the welder and have him MIG a few beads around the inside and they usually drop out with nothing more than gravity after they cool.
Works for all sorts of pressed in ring type stuff. We use it at work to get out die bushings. Take it to the welder and have him MIG a few beads around the inside and they usually drop out with nothing more than gravity after they cool.
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