2nd Generation Specific (1986-1992) 1986-1992 Discussion including performance modifications and technical support sections.

front spindle nut detorquing

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Old Feb 10, 2015 | 11:34 AM
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WI front spindle nut detorquing

hey guys i have an 89 na that i just put new stance coilovers on. Well about a week or two after i put them on the wheel bearings on the front started making noise. I took the front wheels off and sure enough the nut was loose as hell. I did the pre-load procedure to both sides. The problem comes in now that the drivers side keeps coming detorqued. Has anyone else had this problem? Can i just torque the nut down harder? Any help would be appreciated. Thank you.
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Old Feb 10, 2015 | 12:32 PM
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If you followed the preload procedure exactly per FSM and have the castellated nut and cotter pin, then the bearings may be worn.

They feel tight until you put weight on them and then when you shake the wheel/tire (not steering wheel) you feel play, right? Any noise when parking or pulling into a driveway (a single click noise), or vibration when braking? This, of course, after ensuring there's no play or (disk) runout anywhere else. Took me a while to figure out. And my bearings don't really make the usual humming noise.

This is my case, so I'm replacing the bearings (incl. inner and outer races) on both sides after my car wakes up from hibernating over the winter.

Last edited by pfsantos; Feb 10, 2015 at 12:35 PM. Reason: Added more info.
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Old Feb 10, 2015 | 12:57 PM
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there is a a noise while driving the car that comes and goes when the noise happens it goes away when turning left. Also there is no play when i first tighten up the wheel its after i drive it for awhile.
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Old Feb 10, 2015 | 02:07 PM
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roTAR needz fundZ
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Originally Posted by datwhiterx7
there is a a noise while driving the car that comes and goes when the noise happens it goes away when turning left. Also there is no play when i first tighten up the wheel its after i drive it for awhile.
Your bearings are probably wore, they are good 'n tight when you have the grease packed in, than after they move around the bearings settle
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Old Feb 10, 2015 | 03:16 PM
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does anyone have a write up on how to replace the rear bearing?? the front bearing is easy..
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Old Feb 10, 2015 | 04:51 PM
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Originally Posted by datwhiterx7
does anyone have a write up on how to replace the rear bearing?? the front bearing is easy..
Sounds like you're not replacing the races....so no, it's not easy.
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Old Feb 10, 2015 | 08:30 PM
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I haven't replaced anything yet.. i have removed and repacked the one bearing and since that side is easy accessible it is "easy". I just don't know how to get to the back bearing is all.
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Old Feb 10, 2015 | 10:32 PM
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Wait. You mean replacing the front inner bearing? Calling it rear causes confusion cuz we think rear wheel bearing lol.

There's a writeup somewhere on a few ways to get the outer race on the inner bearing out of the hub by grinding, heating/cooling or welding.

Edit: https://www.rx7club.com/2nd-generati...te-up-1001970/

Also, mazdatrix site has info.
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Old Feb 10, 2015 | 11:10 PM
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yea thanks sorry for the improper wording. That right up helps thank you
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Old Feb 11, 2015 | 09:44 AM
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You're welcome. Don't forget the mazdatrix writeup also I mentioned. Here:

https://www.mazdatrix.com/faq/frontbrg.htm

Keep in mind some of us don't like to grind into the hub. I'd try the hub in the oven method first. Worked for many. Al expands more than Steel, and the race usually just falls off or by tapping the hub onto a piece of wood. Just clean it up nicely before putting in the oven.
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Old Feb 11, 2015 | 10:21 AM
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my friend welds a bead on the inner race, so then it either shrinks, or you have something to hammer on
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Old Feb 11, 2015 | 06:05 PM
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Beat me to it. It's a slick trick... if you can weld, have access to a welder, or know a welder that has one.

Works for all sorts of pressed in ring type stuff. We use it at work to get out die bushings. Take it to the welder and have him MIG a few beads around the inside and they usually drop out with nothing more than gravity after they cool.
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Old Feb 13, 2015 | 01:16 AM
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Heat up the hub with a torch and the hit it against a wood plank and the races fall right out.
No need to over complicate with welding
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Old Feb 14, 2015 | 02:20 PM
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all fixed thanks guys
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Old Feb 14, 2015 | 06:08 PM
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Can you tell us how you resolved the de-torque problem in case someone else runs into a similar problem?
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