front/rear strut bars.
#1
Senior Member
Thread Starter
Join Date: Dec 2006
Location: Iowa
Posts: 602
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
front/rear strut bars.
Hey guys i was wondering if anyone in here has installed a front/rear strut bars on a 2nd gen S4 7? I am thinking of ordering them... i mean i had them on my honda crx when i owed one but, i mean it helped a little bit stiffen it up? Do you guys think i should get these? I will be getting adjustable shocks, and coil overs at a later time.
Just wondering if anyone thinks it is worth the money... on the ole 7's?
Just wondering if anyone thinks it is worth the money... on the ole 7's?
#3
It's Radiation Therapy
Join Date: Nov 2005
Location: Nashville, TN
Posts: 902
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Buy good ones not cheapo ebay bars. I just got a set of ebay delivered on Friday and the front doesn't fit at all. I haven't even tried the rear. I 've heard mixed opinions on here about them. Some say the difference is hardly noticeable and some say the difference is amazing. It probably varies by how hard you drive the car and the condition of the rest of the suspension and frame.
#4
Senior Member
Thread Starter
Join Date: Dec 2006
Location: Iowa
Posts: 602
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Hmm...
Yea i heard some good things about the ones on ebay... i am sure they are managable but what doesnt fit i am just curious?
Let me know thanks...yes i really hope my frame is in pretty good condition. doesnt look to rusted out from under neath.
Let me know thanks...yes i really hope my frame is in pretty good condition. doesnt look to rusted out from under neath.
#5
I had a really cheap ebay (less than 20 bucks i think) front strut bar, and i couldnt really tell a difference at all, but then again its a 7 so it handles like its on rails anyway. It fit, but it touched a couple things on the engine, like the alternator i think and the radiator cap that is by the thermostat, and eventually it started to get a worn spot in the strut bar from when the engine moves a little while running, so i took it off and threw it away.
#6
It's Radiation Therapy
Join Date: Nov 2005
Location: Nashville, TN
Posts: 902
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
The first issue I had was that the holes in the mounting plates are not stamped big enough to fit flush over the strut tower. You have to grind or file them out to make them fit properly.
Then, after getting the mounting plates on I found that the bar itself hits both the alternator AND coolant fill cap (S4). I tried to run the adjustment bolts out as far as I could but I had no success. I also tried to spin the bar forward to go in front of the alt, but the overflow tube is in the way. I then tried to put spacers under the mounting plates so the bar would sit a little higher and finally got it to clear the alt and the fill cap but... I couldn't close my hood.
If they had designed the mounting plates to offset the bar just one more inch forward it would work but... I guess that's too much to ask.
Then, after getting the mounting plates on I found that the bar itself hits both the alternator AND coolant fill cap (S4). I tried to run the adjustment bolts out as far as I could but I had no success. I also tried to spin the bar forward to go in front of the alt, but the overflow tube is in the way. I then tried to put spacers under the mounting plates so the bar would sit a little higher and finally got it to clear the alt and the fill cap but... I couldn't close my hood.
If they had designed the mounting plates to offset the bar just one more inch forward it would work but... I guess that's too much to ask.
#7
If it hits the alternator, you have to lower it a tad. Then get a new belt that will fit. Same thing happend to me. For the rear I removed the speakers and cut enough out of the shock tower and through the carpet so that the strut bar looks like it 's coming out of the carpet. Looks nice. Still don't know if theres much change in handling, car is still beieng re-built.
Trending Topics
#9
Banned. I got OWNED!!!
Join Date: Aug 2006
Location: Comstock Park, MI 49321
Posts: 3,717
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
here is the things to remember if the bar is screwed to the plates it will flex if the bar and plates are one it is TOP NOTCH...
look at the racing beat front bar that is a PERFECT bar it will give no flex.. now the corksport bars will flex a touch because they are screwed together at the bracket joints
either way they are worth it I put ebay bars on amy civic si I had and I loved it
Dave
look at the racing beat front bar that is a PERFECT bar it will give no flex.. now the corksport bars will flex a touch because they are screwed together at the bracket joints
either way they are worth it I put ebay bars on amy civic si I had and I loved it
Dave
#13
Originally Posted by RoughRex
The first issue I had was that the holes in the mounting plates are not stamped big enough to fit flush over the strut tower. You have to grind or file them out to make them fit properly.
Then, after getting the mounting plates on I found that the bar itself hits both the alternator AND coolant fill cap (S4). I tried to run the adjustment bolts out as far as I could but I had no success. I also tried to spin the bar forward to go in front of the alt, but the overflow tube is in the way. I then tried to put spacers under the mounting plates so the bar would sit a little higher and finally got it to clear the alt and the fill cap but... I couldn't close my hood.
If they had designed the mounting plates to offset the bar just one more inch forward it would work but... I guess that's too much to ask.
Then, after getting the mounting plates on I found that the bar itself hits both the alternator AND coolant fill cap (S4). I tried to run the adjustment bolts out as far as I could but I had no success. I also tried to spin the bar forward to go in front of the alt, but the overflow tube is in the way. I then tried to put spacers under the mounting plates so the bar would sit a little higher and finally got it to clear the alt and the fill cap but... I couldn't close my hood.
If they had designed the mounting plates to offset the bar just one more inch forward it would work but... I guess that's too much to ask.
So if you get one, get a good one. And i would imagine they would make a bigger difference on a civic or something than an rx-7, but if these guys say the good ones make a big difference then i guess it does.
#14
Sharp Claws
iTrader: (30)
i've used the cheapo ebay ones and run a JIC bar now but really.. i can only barely feel a difference after installing them, in my opinion spending $350 on the expensive ones is a total waste and anyone who sais they are a major upgrade and they can TOTALLY feel the difference! has rocks in their head, just like they can feel a big boost in power by adding a K+N, there may be a difference but it is barely noticable. i got the JIC for bling factor, good price used and because it wraps forward away from the alternator.
IMO there is nothing wrong with the ebay ones if you are short on cash and don't mind doing a little tweaking to make some of them fit, the handling benefits of them vs the $150 bars is negligible where if you got the cash then a nicer looking bar is just fine too.
IMO there is nothing wrong with the ebay ones if you are short on cash and don't mind doing a little tweaking to make some of them fit, the handling benefits of them vs the $150 bars is negligible where if you got the cash then a nicer looking bar is just fine too.
#16
Eats, Sleeps, Dreams Rotary
i HAVE a greddy/trust bar up front and am going to get a Corksport rear strut bar soon. wITH THE front bar i have noticed a bit more stability, when i finish my suspension upgrade i guess i will notice the effects more.
I am also looking into the lower A-arm bars for that extra stiffening.
Jason NYC
I am also looking into the lower A-arm bars for that extra stiffening.
Jason NYC
#17
i bought some from ebay both front and rear for like 40 bucks thats with shipping . both front and rear did not fit . i had to trim pieces of the inner front strut to make it fit perfectly . the rear i had to cut angles around the strut to make it fit . but when i finally finished i can actually tell you that the cheap ebay strut bars were worth it . i can difference on my car when taking turns .
#19
The cheapo ebay ones will do the job, but are much more likely/prone to flexing and bending under high stress conditions.
Anyone who says they can't notice the difference isn't driving hard enough
Anyone who says they can't notice the difference isn't driving hard enough
#20
Eats, Sleeps, Dreams Rotary
You'll notice the difference more on a car with old miles than one with less, since old = more flex.
The basic design of the car also comes into play, although the FC is relatively stiff for a car from the 80's (then again, if they designed it any stiffer, they wouldn't be able to sell you the bar after you bought the car...).
The basic design of the car also comes into play, although the FC is relatively stiff for a car from the 80's (then again, if they designed it any stiffer, they wouldn't be able to sell you the bar after you bought the car...).
#21
I have a 90 vert, and I put a Racing beat front strut on it, I really noticed a difference, mostly cause well, I have a vert. After seeing what the front strut did, Im getting ready to order a rear strut.
#22
Senior Member
Thread Starter
Join Date: Dec 2006
Location: Iowa
Posts: 602
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
front/rear strut
yes that is what i am planning on doing is getting some adjustable struts and coil overs to increase my handling and what not... but i figured the strut bar would be a decent upgrade as well... what are most of you guys using for a offset with your lowered FCs?
#23
Crash Auto?Fix Auto.
iTrader: (3)
Firstly:
Yes there's a slight benefit to chassis ridgidity. A highly beneficial amount? Hardly.
Secondly:
To all those who say they noticed a big difference....B.S, plain and simple - its all in your head. The difference in actual driveability is so minimal before and after that I doubt you could even make a noticeable difference in lap times on a track let alone have a different handling car altogether.
Ive had cars with and without them and 7's with and without them, the difference is mostly mental.......
EDIT: And its certainly not a difference that I'd spend more than $100 on, but thats just me.
Yes there's a slight benefit to chassis ridgidity. A highly beneficial amount? Hardly.
Secondly:
To all those who say they noticed a big difference....B.S, plain and simple - its all in your head. The difference in actual driveability is so minimal before and after that I doubt you could even make a noticeable difference in lap times on a track let alone have a different handling car altogether.
Ive had cars with and without them and 7's with and without them, the difference is mostly mental.......
EDIT: And its certainly not a difference that I'd spend more than $100 on, but thats just me.
#25
Senior Member
Thread Starter
Join Date: Dec 2006
Location: Iowa
Posts: 602
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
yes
thanks ^ above i will check out mazdatrix i had to order a drive shaft from them for my swap... seems like high quality stuff... i just like to have a tight, no swaying suspension so i figured i would see if they make a difference, as i know struts, coilovers will do some of the work but some beyond that.