Why? It seems to be a computer problem but is it fixable w/o a new ecu? Could it have anything to do w/ the Redom chip? This is an n374 ecu.

 

How did you narrow it down to that injector not working? I'm curious on this one.

 

Are you getting a pulsewidth for the front primary at the ECU harness?

 

N374............................search

 

My dad hooked up his snap on vantage and figured it out at the plug to the ecu.

 

Ok. You don't know how to search. So I searched for you. Here is a sample of what you find when you put in N374 in the search engine. There are other similar threads concerning N374.

HERE: https://www.rx7club.com/showthread.p...highlight=N374

 

I dont have the problem they had though... it fires all my injectors normally except one... this is a completely different problem. I have in fact seen that thread and threads like it a few times!

 

Ok so I wanted to see if this was actually an ecu problem and plugged my n351 in... started up and still had the exact same problem. Im going to check the the wiring for the injector again but it doesn't seem to be that sort of problem.

 

You just go to each injector wire at the ECU plug, and with the key to ON, you see if each injector wire has batt voltage or not. Seeing the batt voltage at the ECU plug proves there is no wiring problem at all.

Actually your just interested in the primary injectors for right now, but you should check for the 12vdc at the secondary injectors while there.

If each injector wire has batt voltage, then if the injector isn't working the problem is a ECU problem in that the ECU isn't pulsing a gnd to that injector.

Could be a bad injector. Not likely though.

And secondary injectors only work when there is a LOAD on the engine and the rpms are over 3800 rpm, so they won't pulse in the driveway. UNLESS you unplug the boost/pressure sensor and plug the vacuum line that attaches to the boost/pressure sensor. THEN each time you rev over 3800rpm, even the secondarys will operate.

And what is the COLOR of the injector wire at the ECU, that does not work? Light green? Light green/white? Light green/black? Light green/red?

 

Even though there brand new injectors I've got this suspicion of a bad injector but that doesn't explain why the pulse width is incorrect. At idle when the injector is working its at about 3.4ms but then reads 0 after a while or when the idle is bouncing meaning its not doing anything. I am almost starting to wish it was an ecu problem because its easy to just swap a computer but this diagnostics is driving me insane!!! I just don't understand what would cause the ecu to shut down the injector. I do know my AFM was about 1 volt lower then it was supposed to read but could that cause the current issue? I tested my TPS and adjusted it to spec's its 100% ok so thats not it. I do know my car will not go into the accelerated warm up for what ever reason but that shouldn't cause this problem either I don't think. Also my tac and fuel gauge cut out sometimes in the morning and then come back later but thats likely a gauge cluster problem or wiring I think. Has anyone had a similar problem? This is just getting old I want to drive it w/ no problems!