Hey everyone, I replaced my front diff mount today. I found quite a bit of useful information on these forums but I never found a real step-by-step write-up with pictures. So here goes:

(This is from memory, feel free to correct me on the details. Though I just finished replacing this mount two hours ago.)

First, you'll need a jack. (duh?)

Lift the rear of the vehicle up. Use the subframe as a jack point. Place jack stands on the frame rails.





Now you need to lower the subframe. Unbolt each side and remove the bushings.



^ That's the mount point with the bushing already removed.

Now, finally remove another mount point - it's a mount that dangles from the body down to two prongs on the subframe. (Sorry no pictures of that) and you should be able to lower the subframe freely.

At this point, or maybe beforehand, you'll want to lose your exhaust y-pipe and maybe mufflers. (I removed one muffler and moved the other to the side, as you can see here:



Here's my buddy Nathan removing the y-pipe.



Now you'll need 17mm wrenches and sockets. (11/16ths will also work in some cases.)

Unless I've forgotten something, it's time to remove that old front diff mount!

There's the new diff mount set in place.





As for my old diff mount... it came off in two pieces...



But thanks MazdaTrix for the new one!! They shipped this mount really fast!





You have 5 bolts to remove in order to get that diff mount out. Just examine the mount above and you'll get the idea.

Now do everything in reverse order and you're done!

This took about 3-5 hours of casual work. Well worth it! My 7 drives like a dream now! No more POPPING on shifting / acceleration!!





Yup, that's me. Don't expect to stay clean during this process!!

Cheers,
iSP33D-for-J3SUS

 

Cool thanks.. Im sure my buddy with his 88' will appreciate this write up when he gets around to it. Btw, is it the pic, or do you always walk around with such magnified eyes? j/k

 

If you can get the pics permanently saved so that we don't have to worry about pics not working, this thread could be archived.

 

I think you just smeared dirt all over yourself and let the friend under the car do all the work...

 

wow, strong prescription

awesome wriiteup though, they should archive it after a week

 

Nice write up. I'm going to replace all 3 diff mounts. Just waiting for "freinds" to help when they stop the b/s. I don't have a garage. It's kinda frustrating. I'm about to do the damn thing in front of my apt. by myself.

 

This will come in handy....

 

bump for some hard work dont worry ill be doing this in a few days...

TwEaK

 

The pictures are up on my photobucket site. Unless photobucket goes down, these should be up forever. I have stuff on my photobucket from like two years ago or more.

And, yeah, I have magnifying glasses. :-P (Looking forward to corrective surgery once my eyes stop developing - around 18 - 24 - and I'm 18 now. After that I shouldn't need glasses at all except maybe for reading.)

Honestly, this job was well worth it. The rubber is much stiffer on the MazdaTrix competition mount. It drives great. It's not as big a hassle as it seems, just get a friend to help you and make sure to have some jack wands around for extra torque. (Especially on those subframe nuts.)

Cheers,
iSP33D-for-J3SUS

 

did you have much trouble getting the subframe lowered or back up into place? We did my ex's FC on a lift (my fc now muahaha) and getting the subframe back up was a BITCH. No that my mount went just a day ago i'm going to have to do this. Along with dropping my tranny . . .

 

Nah, dropping the subframe was no problem at all.

Cheers,
iSP33D-for-J3SUS

 

Thats nothing. I have a friend with maxed out contacts plus coke-bottle glasses. I think he's considered legally blind...
Great writeup, too. I'm another of the "I'm gonna do this once I find some time" group. I got the comp mounts with the car, and they've just been collecting dust. The ones in there aren't broken but I might as well do it while I'm waiting for money to do the rebuild. I've gotta drop the subframe for other stuff anyway.

 

Thats the first time ive seen somebody replace the front diff mount w/o removing the subframe

i thought it would be more cramped in there, however it seems you are actualy able to drop it pretty far

nice write up, hope it gets archived. as for the image hosting, would uploading them via rx7club work for a semi-permient hosting solution?

 

ok i just noticed this, but it seems you have the jackstands on the suspension arms? wtf?

 

I was wondering about that too.

 

awesome...thanks for the write-up ill be doing mine sometime next week

 

http://forumbinaries.rerev.com/rx7cl...ountpoints.jpg
http://forumbinaries.rerev.com/rx7club/rearshot.jpg
http://forumbinaries.rerev.com/rx7club/nate.jpg
http://forumbinaries.rerev.com/rx7cl...dshotfront.jpg
http://forumbinaries.rerev.com/rx7club/olddiffmount.jpg
http://forumbinaries.rerev.com/rx7club/diffmountbox.jpg
http://forumbinaries.rerev.com/rx7club/newdiffmount.jpg
http://forumbinaries.rerev.com/rx7club/thumbsup.jpg
http://forumbinaries.rerev.com/rx7club/meandthe7.jpg
http://forumbinaries.rerev.com/rx7club/jackthecarup.jpg
http://forumbinaries.rerev.com/rx7club/goodjackshot.jpg

 

Yup, do as I say, not as I do. When I first started I had the jackstands on the control arms (or whatever those things are) later I realized how dumb that was and moved them to the frame rails. I just took that pic before I moved 'em.

Cheers,
iSP33D-for-J3SUS

 

Oh My God. I've Been Searching For This.

It Needs To Be Archived. (if it's not already)


This Is My Problem Indefinitely!!! Crazy what a little searching on the forum will find you.

So $68 and 3-5 hours of labor later, I'll have a good running FC again!

Thank You So Much.

 

+7 awesome points for this writeup. I'm going to have to be doing this at some point and now I won't screw up (as bad).

 

nice good write up when i did mine i tried to find a write up but no one did. but now i have a solid mount on, i welded a piece of thick metal where the rubber part is at. works just as fine

 

+1 for the welded mount

 

-1000 for the welded mount, there is a reason it is rubber isolated. The correct way would be a pinion snubber, they are about $15, keep the isolation, but also don't allow the diff much upward movement.

 

Hmm, these links are dead. Were you trying to mirror them?

Like I said before, these photos are from my photobucket site, so unless photobucket screws up, they should be up here forever. Feel free to mirror them if you want though.

Cheers,
iSP33D-for-J3SUS

 

Awesome man! Thanks I got that problem with my 87 T2 it ******' sucks!