Hello,

I'm in a process of disassembling my S4 TII engine, I got to the part that I need to remove the front counterweight off to get to the stationary gear, and according to the rebuild video from mazdatrix, the front counterweight should slide right off. However that's not the case this time. The front counterweight seem like it's part of the e-shaft, and as I lift the counterweight the e-shaft starts to lift up and stuck at some point because the rest of engine is stopping the e-shaft from moving. The front counterweight also seem like it's got some sort of black seal at the center, when the one in mazdatrix video doesn't have.

 

it's stuck on the key way.

 

what is key way, and how do I get it to unstuck?

 

It looks like the key is out. Does it spin freely on e shaft?

 

I've seen that plastic ring thing before...no idea what it actually does. The counterweight should slip right off...try to get it to spin freely then work it upward off the shaft. Maybe it needs a gentle tap from a rubber mallet?

 

e-shaft spins with it

 

e-shaft spins with it, and I'm afraid i might break the balance if i use mallet on anything around e-shaft

 

Look down the keyway slot. Is there a broken piece of it possibly wedged down there.

 

oh god I hope not.

 

No offense, but if this is stopping you you should just quit while your ahead. It only gets more complex and complicated from here on out.

That said, man up and pull, pull carefully as you will be jamming eshaft into bearings that were not designed for thrust forces.

Something here is very wrong, either you or the previous person has screwd something up, take your time and figure it out.

A two year old should be able to slide that on and off there, unless someone beat something with a hammer on the front.

Good luck.

 

Agreed, something is very wrong with this motor, I had to use pry bar to pry as center as I can on the counterweight and mallet it to move. It seems like nothing is stuck, it's just the counterweight is so tight that it's almost like seized on the shaft, I have to bang really heavy to get it to move. And the bearing under the counterweight wasn't even the right size, and is all warped. I got the counterweight to almost the tip of the e-shaft, and it just seized right there. No matter how hard I pull. And the e-shaft was already moving in and out before I started pulling. And yes, this motor came with the car half-dead. The motor was running but had issues like floodings. And I won't stop, worst case scenerio I will just buy a used engine in better condition and try again.

 

the keyway is clear, nothing wedged or broken. Just a really tight counterweight. I managed to turn it with the pulley bolt, and I also managed to pry it to the tip with a pry bar and mallet.

 

Just warm it up with a small torch for a bit and it should pretty much fall off . It might just be a tightie

 

end up taking the e-shaft and the front rotor altogether by tapping on the eshaft in a vertical position from the front with a mallet so I won't bent the shaft. and the whole piece just drops out like a big dump wanted to go 2 weeks ago. However I'm seriously suspecting this counterweight might not be the right counterweight for the turbo 13b, because it's just way too tight. I tried slide it back in and it will stop at the tip of the e-shaft. Is there any possibility that might happen? And if I do end up getting a different counterweight, does that mean I will have to balance the counterweight with e-shaft again?

 

if the crank has a small wobble in the stack section can be difficult to slip the weight up,, you do so by pulling on it and tapping the sides of the weight with the mallet
you likely bent the front of the crank when you undid the front pulley
- dont reuse this crank if you have that option-
i have posts somewhere in which to measure the height of the front weight to ID it

 

The counterweight is difficult to fit on the e-shaft anywhere, even at the tip of e-shaft it still has difficulty sliding in. I spinned the crank while it was on the front iron with stationary gear, and I can't see any wobble. And if it is true that the front crank is bent, what would happen if I reuse it?

and you use propane as fuel for your 13b?? that's incredible! Is there a build thread?

 

yes i highly suspect your crank has a whip in it,, it can be done with over tight belts but but most usually when you overpower the front hub bolt without heat
you need special V blocks to test the crank, but any crank that is difficult to slip the weight or cas gear along i simply do not reuse

having a whip in that section of the crank will make the timing wobble back and forth several degrees as it effects the cas drive gear

----------
yes my rx7 is on propane, many threads in various forums , might be something about the rx7 or the ute in the alternative fuels sub forum

 

Also could you tell me if this rotor and front iron is still useable?



and yeah looks like I will have to get another e-shaft. Should I balance the e-shaft with counterweight just to be safe

Thanks

 

you will have to measure the step wear and inspect the inner water seal groove carefully, cant guess from another continent away

rotor, check the slots tolerance and double check rotor land protrusion

as fro the e shaft,, it does not need to be balanced,, just be sure that the front and rear masses are the correct ones for the rotors

 

Do you mean I have to make sure the front and rear counterweight is for the s4 rotors? Or do you mean the front and rear counterweight is balanced specifically for the two rotor that was in the engine?

 

both front and rear counterweights are s4,, i have posts around here somewhere about how to ID either

 

you missed the big chunk missing from the wall in the center of the picture.

the iron is toast and can't be reused, well can but i wouldn't recommend it at this moment in time.