Just installed the front ES controll arm bushings. nof that this is done, according to the instructions the front controll arms are way ******* tight like they are binding.

Is this normal?

I don't see how anything could have been done differently, the only thing I could think of is the rear mount could be turned around, front to back with the car.

Any thoughts?

 

did u take out the metal sleeves in the control arm after removing the rubber bushing?

 

you can't remove the front bushing without taking out the metal sleeve. I should mention that the bushings move just fine on the arms untill the rear hoop is tightened thats when the **** gets tight.

 

i did then tried inserting the new bushing it woulnt work then i found out about the sleeves. did u use the grease?

 

yep I used grease.

 

Did you set the car down before you tightened the control arms? If not, then I would do that soon.

 

^ y what would that do?

 

You would be putting the suspension into its operating stance. If you do not do this you could throw the geometry of the suspension off.ie...the car does not sit right.

 

its not gonna change. the weight of the car could easily put the suspention back in to "operating stance" no matter how tight the control arms were tightend so i dont think that would matter and the springs and struts could also eaily push the car back up

 

I know this due to personal experience from past vehicles.If you do not beleive me then go outside put your car on stands and loosen all of your suspension components and then tighten them all back.

 

Your wrong, it is a common known FACT you shouldnt tighten the Control arm, or swap bar mounts/ bushings, until the car is sitting level on the ground!!!

 

READ

"Bushing Construction

Many bushings now use hot-bonded construction, in which the elastic material is essentially melted to the inner and outer metal sleeves. This contrasts with the "shot" type, in which the rubber material (the elastomer) is injected, then expands under pressure against the sleeves.
Burgess notes that shot products, if improperly installed (by torquing the control arm bushing with the arm hanging, for example), will twist through a greater range of motion before breaking free from the sleeve (see "Bushing Service Timesavers" on page 38). In many instances, it will break free, slip and realign itself, then lock into the correct position."
does not apply to free floating type bushings!!!

taken from this....http://www.findarticles.com/p/articl...06/ai_n9257837

 

ok thanx for the info i wasnt aware that i would make a difference for the bushings i did know that the sway bars shouldnt be done unless under load also hes talking about polyurethane bushings there are no metal sleeves bonded to the bushing

 

any type of bushing should be torque'd at "neutral" stance or ride height so that its ability to flex/twist is equal in both directions.

 

i believe you but thats not what his info sheet says

 

You needed to read further into the very article you site. Something which I suspect you did anyways but instead of admitting that you where wrong you continued the insisting you where correct,

In any case I have come to the conclusion that the amount of binding present is within normal design limits, in order to remove it I would have to put spacers between the rear front lower controll arm collers and subframe. That doesn't seem like a good idea.


"Energy Suspension's Tanya Oxford notes that because polyurethane does not bond to metal, it remains free-floating and allows a greater range of motion. In control arm applications, this proper-ty eliminates the need to weight the wheels before the final fastener torque is applied."

 

I have a question...

If the car is sitting on the ground , then how are you going to get under the car to tighten these bolts/bushings ? It would be hard to do if you ask me, especially if the wheels are still on.

The only way i could think of is to ride the car onto ride on wheelstands, but then the car wouldnt be on level ground would it ?

 

a drive up lift would be the easy way.

 

you use ramps or a roll on lift to do it, same thing with sway bars. btw thanx to slo now i dont look like an ******* i knew i was correct because i did my poly bushings on a 4 post lift with no load on the control arms and no problems occured i could see if you were using stock replacement but your not. you no after rereading this thread and realized that all these guys jumped down my back for no reason if they had properly read the opening post or better yet the info they had posted they wouldnt look like idiot trying to make some one else look stupid. oh and i did learn something if i ever decide to put the shitty OEM bushing back in my sports car ill be sure to remember to load the suspention b4 tightening it

 

what every one stopped postin in this thread now, why? lol

 

Couldnt tell ya why , but how long it take u to do this stuff ?

I know putting in the full energy suspension kit can take quite some time

 

yes i can a good amount of time and removal of the old bushings is the worst part unless ur in a well ventilated area and have a torch witch i didnt lol so it was very long and a pain in the *** if you have a air chisel its recommened it will help alot

 

does not apply to free floating type bushings!!!
Did you two miss that part of the post? I am here to help people out not argue, or call anyone an *******, and I didnt, I just want to pass on good info.

 

front about 4 hours for R&R with install of new shocks springs and bushings. Rear, hasn't started yet.

 

a Dull air chisel can also be helpful with the heat.