Front brake upgrade, what to buy?
very well, brakes preferably shouldnt lock up at all tho all brakes have the capability too do so if u dont know how too use the brakes properly, depends on the driver of course.
Link?
Last edited by OutCold; Sep 15, 2008 at 10:54 PM.
well, locking up the tires once doesnt necessarily mean the brakes are adequate or fade-resistant. If they can do it and not fade after multiple 100-0 stops, then they are capable. If they can do all this, and still provide the driver with the feel and control he needs to keep them on the verge of locking up, but not quite locking up, then they are good enough.
Edit: Poser! Actually, I think the front 4-pots from the FC are pretty good looking brakes after a little painting, then filing off the paint over the "mazda" raised logo. The rears are a bit ugly, but most sliding-caliper brakes are.
Edit: Poser! Actually, I think the front 4-pots from the FC are pretty good looking brakes after a little painting, then filing off the paint over the "mazda" raised logo. The rears are a bit ugly, but most sliding-caliper brakes are.
well, locking up the tires once doesnt necessarily mean the brakes are adequate or fade-resistant. If they can do it and not fade after multiple 100-0 stops, then they are capable. If they can do all this, and still provide the driver with the feel and control he needs to keep them on the verge of locking up, but not quite locking up, then they are good enough.
Edit: Poser! Actually, I think the front 4-pots from the FC are pretty good looking brakes after a little painting, then filing off the paint over the "mazda" raised logo. The rears are a bit ugly, but most sliding-caliper brakes are.
Edit: Poser! Actually, I think the front 4-pots from the FC are pretty good looking brakes after a little painting, then filing off the paint over the "mazda" raised logo. The rears are a bit ugly, but most sliding-caliper brakes are.
http://corksport.com/store/category/...rx-Brakes.html
Just throwing big brakes on the car will likely compromise your stopping ability since the bias will likely be off. This will cause one end to lock before the other at a lower limit than before, making your brakes worse. You'll need to address this if you want your brakes to work properly.
Just throwing big brakes on the car will likely compromise your stopping ability since the bias will likely be off. This will cause one end to lock before the other at a lower limit than before, making your brakes worse. You'll need to address this if you want your brakes to work properly.
http://corksport.com/store/category/...rx-Brakes.html
Just throwing big brakes on the car will likely compromise your stopping ability since the bias will likely be off. This will cause one end to lock before the other at a lower limit than before, making your brakes worse. You'll need to address this if you want your brakes to work properly.
Just throwing big brakes on the car will likely compromise your stopping ability since the bias will likely be off. This will cause one end to lock before the other at a lower limit than before, making your brakes worse. You'll need to address this if you want your brakes to work properly.
Last edited by OutCold; Sep 16, 2008 at 12:04 AM.
that was AWESOME!
if i remember correctly, the guy that did the evo swap was running into all kinds of problems. i believe the issue of having to get your rotors machined to fit (or something like that) was one of them.
out cold- the stock brakes with some good pads/rotors are, in my opinion, fine for 400bhp. especially since your probably going to only see 90% (on a good day) of that power.
sleeperR1 has the general idea. i believe that pertains to systems without anti-lock (duh) brakes.
and yes ted, that may mean he is a poser, but i wouldnt hold that against him. some people just like to wear suits even when they dont have to.
if i remember correctly, the guy that did the evo swap was running into all kinds of problems. i believe the issue of having to get your rotors machined to fit (or something like that) was one of them.
out cold- the stock brakes with some good pads/rotors are, in my opinion, fine for 400bhp. especially since your probably going to only see 90% (on a good day) of that power.
sleeperR1 has the general idea. i believe that pertains to systems without anti-lock (duh) brakes.
and yes ted, that may mean he is a poser, but i wouldnt hold that against him. some people just like to wear suits even when they dont have to.
Well, I think that original poster gave up on this thread. This is too bad, because I'd really like to hear more info on what he had already done.
Well, this could actually be an interesting conversation. But we have some unanswered questions:
1) Where is the current setup lacking? Are you getting pad fade? Are you boiling fluid?
2) What pads and fluid are you currently running?
3) Do you have ducting? How is it mounted?
4) Have you looked at doing some temperature monitoring of the brake rotors and calipers using stick on thermometers or thermo-paint?
5) You have a Volvo/Dana rear end - what are you running back there? Do you think you have too much or too little brake in the rear?
6) Are you using a stock master cylinder? What are you using for proportioning? I assume that you are using braided steel lines on all the corners?
We really need to look at all these aspects before charging ahead and throwing on whatever happens to be today's "in vogue" brake kit. As the E-Prod racer mentioned, the stock system is pretty good. But we may be able to improve on it (since you are running such an odd mix of components on your car). The first step should be trying to figure out what the actual weak spots are in the system, and we can't do that with the information you have given.
But good luck with it
-b
1) Where is the current setup lacking? Are you getting pad fade? Are you boiling fluid?
2) What pads and fluid are you currently running?
3) Do you have ducting? How is it mounted?
4) Have you looked at doing some temperature monitoring of the brake rotors and calipers using stick on thermometers or thermo-paint?
5) You have a Volvo/Dana rear end - what are you running back there? Do you think you have too much or too little brake in the rear?
6) Are you using a stock master cylinder? What are you using for proportioning? I assume that you are using braided steel lines on all the corners?
We really need to look at all these aspects before charging ahead and throwing on whatever happens to be today's "in vogue" brake kit. As the E-Prod racer mentioned, the stock system is pretty good. But we may be able to improve on it (since you are running such an odd mix of components on your car). The first step should be trying to figure out what the actual weak spots are in the system, and we can't do that with the information you have given.
But good luck with it

-b
Well, I think that original poster gave up on this thread. This is too bad, because I'd really like to hear more info on what he had already done.
Well, this could actually be an interesting conversation. But we have some unanswered questions:
1) Where is the current setup lacking? Are you getting pad fade? Are you boiling fluid?
2) What pads and fluid are you currently running?
3) Do you have ducting? How is it mounted?
4) Have you looked at doing some temperature monitoring of the brake rotors and calipers using stick on thermometers or thermo-paint?
5) You have a Volvo/Dana rear end - what are you running back there? Do you think you have too much or too little brake in the rear?
6) Are you using a stock master cylinder? What are you using for proportioning? I assume that you are using braided steel lines on all the corners?
We really need to look at all these aspects before charging ahead and throwing on whatever happens to be today's "in vogue" brake kit. As the E-Prod racer mentioned, the stock system is pretty good. But we may be able to improve on it (since you are running such an odd mix of components on your car). The first step should be trying to figure out what the actual weak spots are in the system, and we can't do that with the information you have given.
But good luck with it
-b
Well, this could actually be an interesting conversation. But we have some unanswered questions:
1) Where is the current setup lacking? Are you getting pad fade? Are you boiling fluid?
2) What pads and fluid are you currently running?
3) Do you have ducting? How is it mounted?
4) Have you looked at doing some temperature monitoring of the brake rotors and calipers using stick on thermometers or thermo-paint?
5) You have a Volvo/Dana rear end - what are you running back there? Do you think you have too much or too little brake in the rear?
6) Are you using a stock master cylinder? What are you using for proportioning? I assume that you are using braided steel lines on all the corners?
We really need to look at all these aspects before charging ahead and throwing on whatever happens to be today's "in vogue" brake kit. As the E-Prod racer mentioned, the stock system is pretty good. But we may be able to improve on it (since you are running such an odd mix of components on your car). The first step should be trying to figure out what the actual weak spots are in the system, and we can't do that with the information you have given.
But good luck with it

-b
https://www.rx7club.com/build-threads-293/my-project-695029/
the car is built for highspeed time atack on racetracks, and the brakes are to small, they are running to hot, and When i first upgrades mye brakes i upgrade it more than enought, to get rid of that problem, and also for less wear on the brakes
I like the "lock your wheels theory"
If you cant stop without locking them up... then you have ,obviously, over done it.
If you cant lock them up, even at lower speeds.. than your brake system is junk.
Mine stock 4-pots are probably bad. But i cant lock my tires up at ALL! ****. its hard to lock them up in the rain.(found it to be real good for rain driving)
In the rain they only lock under 20mph coming up to intersection where there are layers of oil.
I think my brakes are done....
If you cant stop without locking them up... then you have ,obviously, over done it.
If you cant lock them up, even at lower speeds.. than your brake system is junk.
Mine stock 4-pots are probably bad. But i cant lock my tires up at ALL! ****. its hard to lock them up in the rain.(found it to be real good for rain driving)
In the rain they only lock under 20mph coming up to intersection where there are layers of oil.
I think my brakes are done....
doesnt look like people here have any more suggestions..
I've found me some different kind of upgrades, just have to figure out which one of them I'm gonna go for.. Anyone tested any of theese?
http://www.modacar.com/products/Mazd...A+Rotora+.html
http://www.ksportusa.com/asp/brake_k...roduct_id=bk01
http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/_Car-...=p4506.c0.m245
I've found me some different kind of upgrades, just have to figure out which one of them I'm gonna go for.. Anyone tested any of theese?
http://www.modacar.com/products/Mazd...A+Rotora+.html
http://www.ksportusa.com/asp/brake_k...roduct_id=bk01
http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/_Car-...=p4506.c0.m245
take a look here, this is my project thread for my car..
https://www.rx7club.com/showthread.php?t=695029
https://www.rx7club.com/showthread.php?t=695029
the car is built for highspeed time atack on racetracks, and the brakes are to small, they are running to hot, and When i first upgrades mye brakes i upgrade it more than enought, to get rid of that problem, and also for less wear on the brakes
As a kind of a related question - why no airdam/splitter on the front of the car? From you pictures it looks like you have a lot of unused air getting underneath the vehicle.
You obviously like building what is a very unique vehicle. If you have some great desire to get some big brakes up front, have at it - it's your money. What I think that some of the people here were pointing out is that for a reasonable amount of money, the stock system can be made to work very well, perhaps good enough for your application.
Good luck with everything.
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Frisky Arab
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