Front brake upgrade, what to buy?
09-14-08, 01:16 PM
#1
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Front brake upgrade, what to buy?
I want to upgrade my front brakes.
I'm using the car for trackdriving only, so need some big and powerfull brakes.
does anyone know about some good kits or brakes that fits to FC?
Doesn't need to fit bolt on, but easier the better..
I'm using the car for trackdriving only, so need some big and powerfull brakes.
does anyone know about some good kits or brakes that fits to FC?
Doesn't need to fit bolt on, but easier the better..
09-14-08, 01:24 PM
#3
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willwood, Evo writeup on this site, IS300 calipers with custom adapter....theres lots of options.
are you thinking mainly of upgrading pads and rotors or do you want a "big brake" kit, because Turbo II Rotor gave you a link for a big rear brake setup- the front brakes are already pretty good. maybe you should invest in some SS lines, slotted rotors and good pads. have you ever heard of a Master Cylinder brace?
are you thinking mainly of upgrading pads and rotors or do you want a "big brake" kit, because Turbo II Rotor gave you a link for a big rear brake setup- the front brakes are already pretty good. maybe you should invest in some SS lines, slotted rotors and good pads. have you ever heard of a Master Cylinder brace?
09-14-08, 02:03 PM
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I was just gonna say the same, all i got in my thread about brakes was the 4 pistons i had was good enough, they wont be for me either, what is this diehard trust in the original calipers actually? I CANT use em for god sake, i need something with ALOT more breaking power...
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09-14-08, 02:04 PM
#8
The stock 4-piston 'big brakes' if rebuilt and ducted more adequately for cooling would be fine. I've seen it done. A lot of people are so ready to throw out what they've got for something they don't need to be re-engineering. Though it is important for better rotors, better pads to be installed. Cheap auto parts store pads and Duralast rotors won't work worth a damn.
09-14-08, 02:09 PM
#10
The stock 4-piston 'big brakes' if rebuilt and ducted more adequately for cooling would be fine. I've seen it done. A lot of people are so ready to throw out what they've got for something they don't need to be re-engineering. Though it is important for better rotors, better pads to be installed. Cheap auto parts store pads and Duralast rotors won't work worth a damn.
NR, check out this thread and also try to do a search in this section for the "evo brembo swap"
https://www.rx7club.com/2nd-generation-specific-1986-1992-17/fd-rotors-fc-786512/
09-14-08, 02:19 PM
#12
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sorry^ my comp didnt display the pics for the kvr big brakes and i scrolled over it. i would have suggested those had i seen them, but i only saw the corksport big rear brake upgrade. on a lightened track FB, id say the 4 piston fronts would just barely cut it.
willwood always makes reliable stuff, and my comment about the EVO and IS300 brakes still stands (if you can figure out how to mount them)
willwood always makes reliable stuff, and my comment about the EVO and IS300 brakes still stands (if you can figure out how to mount them)
09-14-08, 02:26 PM
#13
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If cost is less of an issue, there are kits designed for the FC check out www.autornd.com
http://www.autornd.com/catalog/produ...fd59e072323e86
A nice alternative would be this kit:http://www.justjap.com/store/product...roductid=16151
Although, you need to run 17inch rims or larger for those. You may be able to run smaller with the endless mini 6 pot, but I'm not sure.
http://www.autornd.com/catalog/produ...fd59e072323e86
A nice alternative would be this kit:http://www.justjap.com/store/product...roductid=16151
Although, you need to run 17inch rims or larger for those. You may be able to run smaller with the endless mini 6 pot, but I'm not sure.
09-14-08, 03:10 PM
#15
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Forgot about this one: http://www.vividracing.com/catalog/r...92-p-6800.html
Similar to G4 kit, same rotor size except 4 pot calipers. I'm assuming the actual surface area of the pistons is larger than oem.
Similar to G4 kit, same rotor size except 4 pot calipers. I'm assuming the actual surface area of the pistons is larger than oem.
09-14-08, 03:16 PM
#16
Here is the Evo Brembo thread, someone bumped it.
https://www.rx7club.com/2nd-generation-specific-1986-1992-17/my-evo-ix-brembo-calipers-fc3s-upgrade-719280/
https://www.rx7club.com/2nd-generation-specific-1986-1992-17/my-evo-ix-brembo-calipers-fc3s-upgrade-719280/
09-15-08, 02:52 AM
#20
id copy supernow's setup
check out their videos
http://www.supernow.co.jp/works/out.cgi?2
i posted a thread about that car a while back... Most japanese tuners usually go with parts from other cars or bolt ons.
check out their videos
http://www.supernow.co.jp/works/out.cgi?2
i posted a thread about that car a while back... Most japanese tuners usually go with parts from other cars or bolt ons.
09-15-08, 03:28 AM
#21
Lives on the Forum
His sig doesn't give enough information to warrant an effective suggestion.
To me, brake capacity is a fuction of:
1) traction
2) vehicle weight
3) maximum vehicle speed, which is a function of power
4) application of the vehicle - i.e. what kind of racing?
Ultimately, tire traction will determine braking effectiveness.
There's no mention of what kind of tires (slicks? size?) he's going to use.
The chassis sounds like it's going to be REALLY LIGHT.
Lighter weight means smaller brakes.
Having to haul the car down from triple digit speeds is different that running an autocross.
Running down the 1/4-mile is different that doing a 24-hour enduro.
Notice, NONE OF THE ABOVE was answered in his .sig.
-Ted
09-15-08, 08:05 AM
#23
I beg to differ...
His sig doesn't give enough information to warrant an effective suggestion.
To me, brake capacity is a fuction of:
1) traction
2) vehicle weight
3) maximum vehicle speed, which is a function of power
4) application of the vehicle - i.e. what kind of racing?
Ultimately, tire traction will determine braking effectiveness.
There's no mention of what kind of tires (slicks? size?) he's going to use.
The chassis sounds like it's going to be REALLY LIGHT.
Lighter weight means smaller brakes.
Having to haul the car down from triple digit speeds is different that running an autocross.
Running down the 1/4-mile is different that doing a 24-hour enduro.
Notice, NONE OF THE ABOVE was answered in his .sig.
-Ted
His sig doesn't give enough information to warrant an effective suggestion.
To me, brake capacity is a fuction of:
1) traction
2) vehicle weight
3) maximum vehicle speed, which is a function of power
4) application of the vehicle - i.e. what kind of racing?
Ultimately, tire traction will determine braking effectiveness.
There's no mention of what kind of tires (slicks? size?) he's going to use.
The chassis sounds like it's going to be REALLY LIGHT.
Lighter weight means smaller brakes.
Having to haul the car down from triple digit speeds is different that running an autocross.
Running down the 1/4-mile is different that doing a 24-hour enduro.
Notice, NONE OF THE ABOVE was answered in his .sig.
-Ted
09-15-08, 12:30 PM
#24
I have a 2nd gen with stock 4 pot brakes running Hawk Blue front and Hawk Black rear. Fronts are ducted and I have a Wilwood prop valve to adjust brake bias to the rear. These brakes haul my 2500# E production race car with slicks down from 150mph with no problem and no fade. I consistently out brake the cars I run against. I don't understand the obsession some people have with replacing what is more than adequate already.
09-15-08, 02:33 PM
#25
I have a 2nd gen with stock 4 pot brakes running Hawk Blue front and Hawk Black rear. Fronts are ducted and I have a Wilwood prop valve to adjust brake bias to the rear. These brakes haul my 2500# E production race car with slicks down from 150mph with no problem and no fade. I consistently out brake the cars I run against. I don't understand the obsession some people have with replacing what is more than adequate already.