Fresh rebuild starting/running funny.
Fresh rebuild starting/running funny.
I have a Fresh Rebuild with a med-large street port. When I fire it up on my base map (I run a haltech PS1000) from a dead cold start, the car will start up and run, but sounds to be laboring a decent amount.
When I start it from a warm start, its sputters like its wants to fire on its own, but just doesnt have enough until you hold the throttle wide open and it will sputter up to running and then you can let off and it will continue idling. AFR's seem to be fluctuating between 11 and 13 at idle.
When you rev, you get a stumble and a pop.
after about 3 minutes of idling, I noticed my 1/4inch thick SS manifold turning red, so I shut the car down, let it cool for 15mins and started it again.
As its idling I adjusted the CAS advanced and the rev's shot up to what sounded like about 3k, then the IAC (i have a mustang 90mm TB) shut and stalled the motor out.
I threw the timing light on it, and when I crank it to full advance, the timing marks just start to line up.
everything is pointing towards retarded timing, but I restabbed that CAS at least 9 times with the exact same result. It was getting frustrating, and then to top it off, my laptop decides that it doesnt want to run the Haltech ECU manager program anymore... so i took it as a sign to pack it in, and now I'm venting this here to it doesnt eat at me and I can sleep tonight.
Looks like I'm just off a tooth and need to fudge the gear a little as I'm putting it in right?
When I start it from a warm start, its sputters like its wants to fire on its own, but just doesnt have enough until you hold the throttle wide open and it will sputter up to running and then you can let off and it will continue idling. AFR's seem to be fluctuating between 11 and 13 at idle.
When you rev, you get a stumble and a pop.
after about 3 minutes of idling, I noticed my 1/4inch thick SS manifold turning red, so I shut the car down, let it cool for 15mins and started it again.
As its idling I adjusted the CAS advanced and the rev's shot up to what sounded like about 3k, then the IAC (i have a mustang 90mm TB) shut and stalled the motor out.
I threw the timing light on it, and when I crank it to full advance, the timing marks just start to line up.
everything is pointing towards retarded timing, but I restabbed that CAS at least 9 times with the exact same result. It was getting frustrating, and then to top it off, my laptop decides that it doesnt want to run the Haltech ECU manager program anymore... so i took it as a sign to pack it in, and now I'm venting this here to it doesnt eat at me and I can sleep tonight.
Looks like I'm just off a tooth and need to fudge the gear a little as I'm putting it in right?
I was getting a stumble and a pop when I started my engine too. Turns out it wasn't getting enough fuel (lean backfire). Did you go larger injectors?
I would check your timing settings and then check what it's pulling in the map for fuel based on what the engine is doing both for RPM and manifold pressure/vac.
I would check your timing settings and then check what it's pulling in the map for fuel based on what the engine is doing both for RPM and manifold pressure/vac.
you need to tell the haltech the correct trigger tooth,, and the reference angle till TDC in the setup
sometimes this involves setting the CAS up out a couple of teeth ( Ne signal )
so the ECU sees the home trigger ( G signal ) ,, counts the number of teeth you have entered in the setup then waits the prescribed reference angle ( in crank degrees )
and then calls this spot TDC
it does it like this so that it has a window in which to advance the timing as revs increase
you really need to read the manual,, as its all a bit too much to give you in one post
all different dizzy stabs will have different tooth count and ref number
and you set all this up with the fuel pump disabled and with a timing light
sometimes this involves setting the CAS up out a couple of teeth ( Ne signal )
so the ECU sees the home trigger ( G signal ) ,, counts the number of teeth you have entered in the setup then waits the prescribed reference angle ( in crank degrees )
and then calls this spot TDC
it does it like this so that it has a window in which to advance the timing as revs increase
you really need to read the manual,, as its all a bit too much to give you in one post
all different dizzy stabs will have different tooth count and ref number
and you set all this up with the fuel pump disabled and with a timing light
you need to tell the haltech the correct trigger tooth,, and the reference angle till TDC in the setup
sometimes this involves setting the CAS up out a couple of teeth ( Ne signal )
so the ECU sees the home trigger ( G signal ) ,, counts the number of teeth you have entered in the setup then waits the prescribed reference angle ( in crank degrees )
and then calls this spot TDC
it does it like this so that it has a window in which to advance the timing as revs increase
you really need to read the manual,, as its all a bit too much to give you in one post
all different dizzy stabs will have different tooth count and ref number
and you set all this up with the fuel pump disabled and with a timing light
sometimes this involves setting the CAS up out a couple of teeth ( Ne signal )
so the ECU sees the home trigger ( G signal ) ,, counts the number of teeth you have entered in the setup then waits the prescribed reference angle ( in crank degrees )
and then calls this spot TDC
it does it like this so that it has a window in which to advance the timing as revs increase
you really need to read the manual,, as its all a bit too much to give you in one post
all different dizzy stabs will have different tooth count and ref number
and you set all this up with the fuel pump disabled and with a timing light
I'm gonna do some digging and see what i can stir up.
Trigger angle is just a way to electronically adjust timing. You can verify LOCK timing easily by locking the timing while the engine is running and verifying timing w. light.
Yeah thats exactly what I'm going to do here in a little bit. I'm going to verify cranking timing locked first. Its just that my laptop stopped running ECUmanager before I got a chance.... I'm pretty sure I'm a full tooth off and that it will fall right into place if I skip the CAS one advanced.
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CAS was one tooth too retarded... just felt weird stabbing it. Trigger angle is about 4 degrees off... but i cant change it because my laptop still won't communicate.... heh.
the error im getting is:
Stopped working
Problem signature:
Problem Event Name: CLR20r3
Problem Signature 01: ecumanager.exe
Problem Signature 02: 1.1.7.2
Problem Signature 03: 4b8e0d80
Problem Signature 04: ECUManager
Problem Signature 05: 1.1.7.2
Problem Signature 06: 4b8e0d80
Problem Signature 07: 1d0a
Problem Signature 08: 0
Problem Signature 09: System.IndexOutOfRangeException
OS Version: 6.0.6001.2.1.0.768.2
Locale ID: 1033
Read our privacy statement:
http://go.microsoft.com/fwlink/?link...3&clcid=0x0409
just wonderful... it'll download the tune from the haltech, but as soon as it goes to open and reticulate the splines it pops that error up.
I'm going to DL and install the latest version of software and see if that remedies my problems.
I'm confident that as soon as i can connect to the haltech, it will be awesome again.
the error im getting is:
Stopped working
Problem signature:
Problem Event Name: CLR20r3
Problem Signature 01: ecumanager.exe
Problem Signature 02: 1.1.7.2
Problem Signature 03: 4b8e0d80
Problem Signature 04: ECUManager
Problem Signature 05: 1.1.7.2
Problem Signature 06: 4b8e0d80
Problem Signature 07: 1d0a
Problem Signature 08: 0
Problem Signature 09: System.IndexOutOfRangeException
OS Version: 6.0.6001.2.1.0.768.2
Locale ID: 1033
Read our privacy statement:
http://go.microsoft.com/fwlink/?link...3&clcid=0x0409
just wonderful... it'll download the tune from the haltech, but as soon as it goes to open and reticulate the splines it pops that error up.
I'm going to DL and install the latest version of software and see if that remedies my problems.
I'm confident that as soon as i can connect to the haltech, it will be awesome again.
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HalifaxFD
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eplusz
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