AcidShock

iTrader: (49)

Okay... so I have been over this engine with a fine tooth comb looking for broken vacuum lines, unplugged ****, and anything else that looks abnormal. So far I have not been able to find the culprit.

Fresh rebuild will start and then after about 4-5 seconds will stall out whether it has accelerator pushed down or not. I have searched and tried swapping out the AFM, same result. Tried unplugging the AFM, same result. Tried jumpering the fuel pump connector near the boost sensor - this will cause the car to try to start but it will not start.

Obviously, once I get the car started and it procedes to die, I cannot get it started for like another half hour because of it flooding. Is there anything that I am failing to do or have overlooked so far?

AcidShock

iTrader: (49)

More information - motor will start with the aid of ether but just like before it just cuts out after about 4-5 seconds. We are awaiting to see if the ECU is bad because I swapped it out with another one from another car.

We added, yes added, a fuel sock to the fuel pump because we thought that maybe it was clogged. For some reason there was none on there and it was not in the tank either.

Any suggestions? I am leaning towards a grossly advanced or retarded timing causing our problems, is this correct?

AcidShock

iTrader: (49)

bump

meddle

you have a pm. Giv eme a ring.

loquin23

bump

ddub

Restab the CAS, your timing could be crazy retarded and causing this, it happened to me. Take the CAS out and manually turn the engine until the leading timing mark lines up with the pointer and put the CAS back in. This will get you close enough, try to start the car again and see if it'll now stay running. Once it's running and idling on its own remember it is a rebuild so leave it idling high (like 1.5 to 2k rpms) in the driveway for about a half hour to give it a little bit of break-in and build up some more compression. Then after that lower the idle and set the timing exactly.

Just my guess, worth a shot.