hurleyboi514

i just finished installing my rebuilt engine, but im having problems. i don think im holding fuel pressure. i can hear my pump whirr but it keeps goin and according to haynes, that means it not holding pressure. so ive got a new pump coming. also, im reading no oil pressure on a manual gauge. i know it works, it did before. what could be causing that? does the engine have to be running to restore oil pressure? please help me out...

Scott 89t2

yes the engine needs to be moving to get oil pressure. you should crank the engine over a few times with out the egi fuse in so you will gain some pressure before you start it.

are you sure it's the pump and not the reg? did you hook the fuel lines up right?

hurleyboi514

it will crank, but im still not reading any pressure. ive tried to push start it and it didnt help either. im sure my lines are up right. and no, i just figured it was the pump b/c thats what my haynes was pointing towards. when it was running before, it would die at idle and not rev past 6500. everyone i talked to said FP. but maybe its something else. ive cranked it forever, but it still wont start...

hurleyboi514

help me.... <bump>

Keith

For your fuel problem, I suggest you t-in the fuel pressure guage, short the fuel pump test connector (It's by the passenger front strut tower), turn on the ignition, and listen. If you hear the pump operating, try crimping the fuel return line with wooden blocks and channel locks/vise grips. If the pressure shoots up, you need a fuel pressure regulator. If not, turn off the ignition, disconnect the fuel supply line and put a container under it to catch the gas. Turn on the ignition. If no fuel comes out, you have either a blockage in the fuel supply line (replace the fuel filter if you haven't allready done so), a bad fuel pump or a blocked fuel pump intake (on the bottom of the fuel pump assy. in the gas tank. Hope this gives you some direction.

Irv, Keith's dad

hypntyz7

And after you try what Irv said, and verify that you have fuel supply(the front hose out of the 2, VERY important, wont run backwards) then try some atf or oil down in the holes. A rebuild ofted has VERY low compression to begin with, until its broken in. Ive sen them as low as the 60s until broken in, then they go to 110+.IF you reused your rotor housings(not new ones) then there is a big factor in low compression. Your seals need time to reseat, and wear themselves into the uneven grooves in your housings. Ive started 2 rebuilts, adn both took about an hour, and both required lots of atf, and several times after it first ran to keep it running, they want to die to begin with. Just keep after it. A tow around the block is real nice, if you verify you have fuel and spark. IF that doesnt get it going, you have bigger problems.

HAILERS

All the above .......but I think there is misunderstanding on your part on how the fuel pump works. It puts out 64-85 psi at the pump, but there is a pressure regulator that regulates the pressure to 40psi. It does this by bypassing the excess pressure over 40psi. That excess pressure goes back to the tank. There is a two wire connector near the r/h strut tower that is yellow in color. Has a brown and a black wire. Jumper them and with the key on you should hear the bypassing of the regulator. I think the HAYNES manual is letting you down and has you chasing boogie men. HERE: to prove that it is not the lack of fuel, get a can of starter fluid and spray it in the inlet. If the car starts for a moment I'll concede that you might have a fuel problem. On the oil problem, pull all the plugs out and spin the engine with a fully charged battery. If the starter is worth a darn you'll see oil pressure. If not something is askew with the gauge, pump or ?????????? Another thing on the fuel, if you do the jumper as described above, and have the pump running, then loosen one of the banjo bolts on the fuel rail a tad and see if it sprays fuel. If it does thats good enough for me. Me thinks your problem is not fuel. Maybe lack of spark or the timing, as in the installation of the cas is not quite on the money. And keep in mind that the compression on a rebuild is some what low in the beginning which results in a difficult first start SOMETIMES. I could be all wet too. No guaratees given here. Sure you have spark? EDIT: I forgot http://www.iluvmyrx7.com/Technical_I...ice_manual.htm download section 4a of this manual. Its free and then download the electrical schematics and then late, late tonite, download the whole darn thing while you sleep. Its very free and has a leg up on the Haynes manual. There is a place for the Haynes manual but thats another subject altogether.

HAILERS

OOOPS! Did something unique and reread your post. Oops. You've had this engine running. Disregard the above. With the exception of the oil pump. Shoulda seen pressure by now easily. If the gauge is good and connected properly, you've got trouble on your hands. Pull the plugs, get someone to turn the engine over. While turing the engine over, loosen the banjo bolt on the rear oil line to the engine. Get squirted???? With oil??? I'd fix the oil problem prior to running the engine. I've seen 50 plus psi on an engine just rotating with the starter and plugs out. Sorry, I'll try reading before answering.

HAILERS

JEFF CARD/...... I meant to add that thank you. Also you should hear the crackling of the plug wires while you rotate the engine. It almost sounds like your really flooded, which a fresh rebuild will do a the drop of a hat sometimes. If when spinning the starter with the plugs out, and observe, like Jeff Card said, a mist of fuel coming out, then I think your just flooded and need to take steps to stop the flood. Really concerned about the oil though. Did you seee any pressure when it did start?? Or were you too busy with other things at that time////???????

RETed

Push start the bitch...if it doesn't start by then, something is drastically wrong.

As for the oil pressure gauge problem, did you remember to regound the oil pressure sender capacitor (little black thing with a tab) on the clutch slave cylinder? This is something a lot of people forget when they are messing around in that area or doing a major transmission or engine work.




-Ted

hurleyboi514

thanks for all the help guys...

ive tried push starting it already, but i cant get her goin. ill check the basics again: fuel, spark, and air. im sure ive got air. i thought it was leaning towards fuel. but i havent checked spark at all. its acting like its flooded. man...

the oil pressure probem is what im worried about. so it should read a little bit of oil pressure at least, i dunno why it doesnt. ok, thanks again, im heading out to check it out again, ill let ya know what i find...

RETed

Pull the spark plugs after cranking - if they are wet or reek of gas, then it's a spark problem.

If it's a spark problem, pull the spark plug boots off the spark plugs one by one.&nbsp Insert a small screwdriver in it and put the screwdriver metal shaft next to a chassis ground (I usually use the driver's side strut tower nut under the rubber cover as a convenient spot) - crank the car over and see if you can see/hear a spark firing.&nbsp It would help to have someone help you with this.




-Ted

hurleyboi514

ok guys, i just checked her out. ive got super low fuel pressure. i had my dad try and start it w/ the fuel line dissconnnected. 1st the in line, it was very slow pointing towards the pump. so i checked the out line and it was the same way. it just like dribbled out. and the oil probelm is ok, ive got pressure. my line just handed worked out the air in the line. so ive got oil press, no fuel press. and what RETed said was true. i pulled the plugs and they smelled like gas. so ill go check that next. thanks again...

RETed

Cool, you've narrowed it down to a fuel problem.

Change the fuel filter - that would be the easiest/cheapest fix at this point.&nbsp Else, it's either a clog in the fuel lines (highly unlikely if you've got both filters installed) or the fuel pump is bad.



-Ted

HAILERS

Pull the pump out, only about ten little screws, and examine the mesh filter on the fuel pump inlet. Look for a clear varnish clogging the mesh. Or take the inlet line off your main filter, and put it in a pail. Jumper the yellow , two wire connector near the r/h strut tower(it should be just inboard of the boost sensor) and jumper the connector with a piece of wire. Then turn the key to the on position(do no go to start). That turns the fuel pump on. What happen??????If it pours like Niagra Falls.......well you can figure that one out. If not, trace the fuel pump harness back towards the l/h strut tower till you find a connector undet the carpet on the side of the tower. Put your meter into the back side of the blue wire and see if you have 11-12v when the afore mentioned yellow two wire plug is jumpered. Check the black wire for a ground under .1ohm. As usual I'm just a little confused. Did this engine, since your rebuild, ever run? You alluded to it having run before and dieing at idle. Before or after the rebuild?? And you do have a mechanical oil pressure gauge connected to the engine, right????

hurleyboi514

ok, ill do that fuel pump test tomorrow. thanks again for all the great information! you guys are the best... if i could get u all christmas gifts, i would!! but, since im out of money, i cant... sorry. anyways, yes im pretty sure its the fuel then. yes, its a mechanical gauge (oil press). yesterday, when i 1st tried to fire her up, i had nooo oil in my line. now, ive got full oil, and pressure! woo hoo... problem solved. also, my fuel pump was givin me problems too before rebuild. it was dropping powre off at like 6.5k rpm and dying at idle. i think that was b/c of the pump too. ill have to get a gauge tomorrow to check it before and after the regulator to double check my findings. depending on my results, i might have to check more things (booo...) or maybe that will reassure my ideas of bad fuel pump (woo hoooo!).

thanks again...

pp13bnos

iTrader: (1)

I did'nt read the entire post, but here's an idea for the oil.

I would'nt worry about the oil pressure. What i do on a new motor (Rob at Pineapple told me to do this.) is pour a full quart of oil down the two holes on the oil filter base. I'm shure the oil pressure will shoot up as soon as you fire the engine.

Have you tryed pull starting it with anouther car? If the rotor housings where used, (wich is ok) the apex seals may take awhile to seat into the housings. Causing a period of time, where the car is hard to start. Especially warm.

CJ

Felix Wankel

You REALLY need to pull the EGI COMP (spark) and EGI INJ (fuel) fuses when cranking the car with no plugs. Raw fuel mist+open spark= bad day for your car

HAILERS

Well, Felix Wankel.....you caught me being unsafe again. I should have put a warning after that statement. I have doen this process myself and I admit to being apprehensive about it, what with only on eye left and four fingers missing on each hand I don't need to be taking any more risks. If it is really flooded it will indeed fogg up like a son of a gun and put worry in ones mind. SO. HURLEYBOY.......use care doing this procedure and remove the plug to the cas prior to doing the suggested rotation of the engine with the plugs removed. INJURY AND POSSIBLE DEATH MAY RESULT. Including the barn burning down. I also use starter fluid to find vacuum leaks. The same warning applies to that method. On the other hand if the pump is a pump"in and the injectors are a injectin, there will be no doubt in your mind that that is the case due to the fuel fog. Ask your dad if the house is insured first. Seriously, consider the possible consequences if something did happen. Just disconnect the cas or ecu fuse, but if you do that be sure to crank the engine with the plugs and fuse in for a good thirty seconds or more prior, to make sure the excess fuel has not evaported overnite. Gotta go now. Got some burns I need treated down at the Burn Clinic.

Felix Wankel

Hehe... Like the time I was using a breaker bar and a remote starter switch to loosen the crankshaft bolt on a 323

RXTHREE

Sounds to me like fuel fouled plugs.Take out leading plugs.walk over to bin and despatch.Get 4 BP9ES cheap NGKs Put 2 in the leading and keep 2 Spare.Try starting her up.

hurleyboi514

oh, thats another good idea... new plugs...