fresh build cant get it to start
ok guys my friend and i have just build a 6 port for an 86 gxl. and the car ran before the engine was pulled and didn't sit for long. but anyways the engine trying really hard to start, but for some reason the rear rotor is loading up on alot of fuel and i can't figure it out. here is a list of things i have tried. had the injectors flow tested and checked out great. i tested the harness to see if the trigger wire was pinched or grounding causing the injector to stick open it checked out fine(i checked both primary and secondary rear) plenty of spark. today i am going to try a different ecu cuz i have heard the injector drivers can sometimes go bad i hope it fixes the problem ,but anyother input would be great
thanks guys
thanks guys
i used new ra classic seals and the housings were used t2 housings with 72 thousand miles and they looked beautiful i don't think its a compression issue but the seals r 2 piece ofcourse and we superglued them and we have considered that one of the seals haven't broken the glue yet witch would somewhat explain the fuel in the rear chamber but i got screwed on the ecu i was suppost to have used today so i don't know if that is the problem but like i said in the other post the engine is trying really hard to this is what makes me think its electrical
Joined: Dec 2006
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From: Sterling Heights, MI
Joined: Apr 2005
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From: And the horse he rode in on...
Do a de-flood procedure; pull plugs, pull egi fuse crank to expel excess fuel. Add teaspoon of oil/auto transmission fluid to each rotor, replace plugs.
Then, pull start it.
Rebuilds often need a pull start when using used rotor housings.
You *could* try pull starting it without the deflood proceedure first. Costs nothing to try.
Good Luck!
Then, pull start it.
Rebuilds often need a pull start when using used rotor housings.
You *could* try pull starting it without the deflood proceedure first. Costs nothing to try.
Good Luck!
1. Check to make sure CAS is stabbed right
2. Check to make sure its getting spark
3. Check to make sure its getting fuel
4. Put oil in both leading spark plug holes. Their's not a given amount of what is TOO MUCH to use, but don't go crazy. If you put over a ounce in 1 of the chambers, it's a bit overkill.
If all above are checked and done, the car should fire up no problem. Just help it keep a high idle until the smoke clears (showing its run all the oil out of the engine).
The oil isn't going to hurt the engine, it'll just help it raise compression (fresh rebuilds often have a harder time firing up the first time).
2. Check to make sure its getting spark
3. Check to make sure its getting fuel
4. Put oil in both leading spark plug holes. Their's not a given amount of what is TOO MUCH to use, but don't go crazy. If you put over a ounce in 1 of the chambers, it's a bit overkill.
If all above are checked and done, the car should fire up no problem. Just help it keep a high idle until the smoke clears (showing its run all the oil out of the engine).
The oil isn't going to hurt the engine, it'll just help it raise compression (fresh rebuilds often have a harder time firing up the first time).
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With the new seals, compression IS your issue. Until the seals wear into the housings your compression is going to be horrible. I had this exact same problem with my rebuild last summer. Just add the oil into the sparkplug holes like people are saying. Be warned though, it's going to smoke like none other for 10 - 15 min.
With the new seals, compression IS your issue. Until the seals wear into the housings your compression is going to be horrible. I had this exact same problem with my rebuild last summer. Just add the oil into the sparkplug holes like people are saying. Be warned though, it's going to smoke like none other for 10 - 15 min.
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