Roen

iTrader: (2)

What's the correct amount of Freeze-12 charge I should put in after completely evacuating the system? I'm buying a Quick Charge Pro Kit, which comes with 3 cans of Freeze-12, 1 Can of Oil Charge, Hoses, Gauge and Fittings. I'm guessing I should charge the oil first, but I'm not sure how much of the Freeze-12 I should use for the FC.

Icemark

I normally use 3 cans for a full fill on an evact

Secondmessiah

i have the same situation and i posted htis question and no one responded

staticguitar313

iTrader: (2)

relevant question, how the hell do you charge the system!

HAILERS

********relevant question, how the hell do you charge the system!**********888888

Get in a three point football stance. Have someone count to three, then take off in the direction of the car. Keep your head down and feet moving at all times.

BigPimpin'

iTrader: (5)

Where do you guys buy that from? Don't see it in any stores around here.

staticguitar313

iTrader: (2)

And now for a serious answer . . .

Sideways7

iTrader: (7)

To get freeze-12 legally, you have to be EPA-609 certified. Its very easy to do. You take a 20-question open-book test at www.epatests.com for 20 bucks. Its very handy from anyone that didn't switch to r134. If you do that, get it from http://store.lenzdist.com/index.php. They are much cheaper than anywhere else. You can get it off ebay as well, but its up to you.
As for charging the system from a vacuum after an evacuation, there is a several step process using a manifold gauge set. I believe you put in a can (or maybe a part of a can) on the high side, then close off the high side valve. Start the car and turn the ac on, then charge the rest up from the low side. Thats basically the directions I saw for doing it in an r-134 system for my mx-3, but I assume its similar for our cars.
Edit: The s5 FSM has directions for using the manifold gauge set in chapter 16.
While I'm at it, where the hell is the A/C section of the s4 FSM? Does it not exist, or did nobody scan it?

7dust

iTrader: (14)

Haha Sdeways - didn't you just ask me a while back where to take the test?

HAILERS

You can buy that stuff all day long on E-BAY. Search E-BAY. I'm pretty sure I'm right about that. No certification needed on E-BAY.

How to service it has many answers. If you do it right, you need gauges, a vacuum pump and Knowledge.

I have gauges a vacuum pump and just enough Knowledge to get my cars cold and that's about it. For some idea what the pressures should look like, go visit the S5 FSM and the Heating and Air Conditioning section.

I won't tell how to do it because I know my method is not the way it's supposed to be done. All I know is I use R134 and do NOT have the very high pressures I've seen quoated on this forum. If I saw those pressures I'd stop and think again. I mean, 350 psi???? Scares me to death. Just isn't right.

And just a hint: too much oil in the system makes for a not very cold a/c system. Been there, done that.

And I DO have cold air with the R134. In Texas. In the summer.

I wasted my Freeze 12 when I put too much oil in the system.

Roen

iTrader: (2)

I was told to put in a can of Freeze-12 on the low side, then put the oil charge in, then put the rest of the Freeze-12 in, all on the low side. That's what they told me at H&H anyway. What do you guys think? (H&H runs freeze-12.com)

Tirewall

I just put in 2 cans of Freeze 12 by attaching to the low side and jumping the relay to get the compressor to turn and it sucked it right in. If you are low on pressure, you could probably jump the low pressure switch next to the drier instead. Still can't get my AC to work but I know I have a system full of refrigerant.

HAILERS

I've found that with a empty system, if you start the engine and push the a/c button, and then offer up the can of refrigerent to the system, the pressure will build up in the lines and the compressor will engage long before the first can of refrigerent is empty. Just something I see/saw. I've seen that a couple of times.

Innovation

iTrader: (1)

I ordered it from freeze.com and did not need a EPA license, thats BS. I didn't have any noticable leaks just a low charge after 19 years. I changed the dryer, evacted the system and recharged with one can of oil the kit comes with and two and a half cans of freeze 12 and my vent temp's are at 38 degrees. After 3 months no problems so far!

Innovation

iTrader: (1)

And you I'm shocked at that dumb *** question?

Icemark

yep, that is how I do it too

RotaryEvolution

iTrader: (30)

pulling it into a vacuum is the best way though, just emptying the system to atmosphere will leave the system full of air which is not exactly good for the system and it will not recieve an actual full charge of refrigerant as it will be mixed with air.

Sideways7

iTrader: (7)

Thats what I do as well, but I was just telling how the fsm said to do it from a vacuum. You may be able to buy freeze-12 from these places, but that doesn't change the fact that its illegal. I personally couldn't care less, I'm just letting you know what the EPA says. Of course if we cared about what the EPA says, we probably wouldn't drive our cars....

arghx

iTrader: (3)

you definately want to drain all the old oil out of the system before you do this and pull a vacuum. I did a ghetto R134 conversion on my beater supra and was too lazy to drain the old oil. It's somewhat overcharged actually and doesn't run as efficiently in really hot weather.

Icemark

well despite the fact that the synthetic lube that comes with R134 becomes corrosive (clorine gas is made) when mixed with the petrol based oil that comes with R12.

When changing between R12 and R134 you need to remove the old oil, and change the O rings, so none of the old dino oil is there. Otherwise the seals last about a year of so (depending on use of the air conditioner).

Freeze 12 (BTW) is R134 mixed with a semi synthetic oil, that does not become corrosive when mixed with either R12 or R134. It should not be confused with R12A which also uses the same semi synthetic but is high Hydrocarbon based (burns around 500F instead of the 525-535F that R134 and Freeze 12 burn at).

HAILERS

Just in case: I do pull a vaccuum before offering the can up.

Now if you want to know how I USED to do it: Had no vacuum pump. Had and empty system because I had the lines off. How to get the air out?

Well, put two cans of R134 in . Drove for a while. Come back to the house. Unscrew the oil fill plug on the Sanden a turn or so til I heard the air/refrigerent hissing out. Let it do that for a hour or so. Get two new cans of R134 and refill til the gauges read approx what the S5 says. Done.

I can't say I got all the air/moisture out (most likely not all), BUT I figure I got a lot of the air/moisute out that way. Beat not even trying to get the air/moisture out. Like I said, that's how I USED to do it. Also why I shouldn't reply to posts about how to service a/c.

THat vacuum pump cost a few bennies.a Robinair 15234 model. Ain't the most costly one by far.

nopistons

I used a Mity-Vac pump. $26 at AutoZone. Held a vacuum on the system for an hour, and then chraged with Freeze 12. By putting the system under vacuum, you can tell if you have a leak, (the Mity-VAc has a gauge on it) although not where the leak is. That'll save you from wasting a charge quckly if the leak is a big one.