2nd Generation Specific (1986-1992) 1986-1992 Discussion including performance modifications and technical support sections.

freeeeeeakin clock

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Old Jun 3, 2002 | 09:42 PM
  #1  
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From: NY,NY & ORLANDO, FL
freeeeeeakin clock

does anybody know if the clock has a fuse??? and which one is it?? so i can pull it out and throw it under the george washington bridge!!!!!!!!!!! im tired the freakin clock blinkin faster than turn signal... can somebody help meeeeee? ill pull that **** out right now!
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Old Jun 3, 2002 | 09:46 PM
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From: Rohnert Park CA
room fuse, drivers kick panel fuse box
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Old Jun 3, 2002 | 09:52 PM
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From: NY,NY & ORLANDO, FL
YEAH I KNOW ITS ON THE KICK PANEL BUT WHICH ONE IS IT?? IS IT A 5,10,15,20? 25?
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Old Jun 3, 2002 | 10:03 PM
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From: Rohnert Park CA
7.5 Amp, the one marked "room"
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Old Jun 3, 2002 | 10:10 PM
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There is a fuse in the panel that is labeled ROOM. I think it might be a 7.5 amp. I remember it being an odd number compared to the rest. Not sure what else this controls, but I have a feeling you might lose all of your dash lights if you yank it.

I also have that damn flickering clock problem. I have ripped that entire idiot light cluster apart and spent about 1.5 hours resoldering everything and it is still happening.

Does anybody know if there could be something in the actual CPU down by the driver's feet that could need resoldered to eliminate this problem? I haven't done that yet. Is that what sends the power/signals to that light cluster or is it the ECU? I don't really think it is something up in the light unit. I went through that thing thoroughly and it didn't help.

Mine goes back and forth from bright to dim and occassionally will go clear out and then come back on and flicker. It is embarassing when somebody is riding with you. Everybody asks "why's your clock doing that?"
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Old Jun 3, 2002 | 10:21 PM
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From: Just West of Atlanta
Originally posted by 91vert

I also have that damn flickering clock problem. I have ripped that entire idiot light cluster apart and spent about 1.5 hours resoldering everything and it is still happening.
If it took you more than an hour to resolder that clock, you either are VERY SLOW, you don't know how to solder, or you like to do a VERY VERY good job.
If there's any chance you fall into door #2, you porbably need to have somebody who knows how to solder re-redo it. I'd be surprised if the whole job takes 30 min.
If you fall into door #3, just get another clock board from a junkyard and swap it out.

You COULD also just unsolder the clock if it's bothering you that much.

Cory
fixed his clock in 15 min. and feels REALLY good about it.
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Old Jun 3, 2002 | 10:32 PM
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I don't claim to be an expert solderer, but I am very meticulous. I took my time and made damn sure every solder point was "remelted".

Maybe I should just unsolder the clock......thing annoys the hell out of me.
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Old Jun 3, 2002 | 11:08 PM
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From: Rohnert Park CA
Originally posted by 91vert
I took my time and made damn sure every solder point was "remelted".
Ahhhh thats the problem. When you re-solder you can not just re-melt the joints. You must remove the old solder with a solder sucker or braid, then replace the solder with new rosen core solder.

The new solder will flow into spots that just re-melting won't (namely those with minor corrosion from being a broken joint for a long time).

The problem 91vert describes is related to the idiot light cluster and not the CPU though.

And it does appear if 13B2QuIcKNy problem is also related to the warning/idiot light cluster rather than a bad fuse, or CPU.
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Old Jun 3, 2002 | 11:16 PM
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From: Auckland, New Zealand
If you pull the “Room” fuse you will successfully kill the clock. You will also kill the cargo light, courtesy lights, room and stop light (not sure, it's not the brake lights), warning buzzer/chime, door lock and ignition key lights, EFI, warning lights and clock, alarm (if fitted) and EC-AT control system (auto gearbox if fitted)!
Resolder it, replace it or cut the power to it locally.
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