Found what look like a good 2nd gen for $500 with bad engine harness. Should i get it
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Found what look like a good 2nd gen for $500 with bad engine harness. Should i get it
Ok, it’s me again, that guy that was thinking about either an MR2 or RX7. Well I was driving home a few mins ago and low and behold I came across a little shop called “Rotary Workshop”. I saw a half dozen Rx7’s outside and figured they must work on them.
So I stopped in and said hi and asked some questions. And while talking I am told that a series 4 RX7 that is sitting out front if for sale for $500 cash. Well needless to say I am surprised and ask for the back story. Apparently some guy had the car about a year ago and brought it in for a rebuild. They finished rebuilding it and got it running, but somehow (forgot to ask) the wiring harness got fried and he brought it back.
So it has been sitting for a year with a freshly rebuilt engine and a burnt wring harness. He says it will start right up if you spray carb cleaner into the intake (would have him prove this before I bought it).
So my Question is this, is this a good deal? How much would a harness cost me? I found this on ebay: http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eB...246207874&rd=1 Would it work? The car is either an 87 or 88, I forgot which, it was a series 4. How hard is it to change the harness?
So anything to look out for? Anything else I need to check? The paint is a little messed up (not surprising with the Texas sun) and the inside is a little rough but it all appears to be there and ready to go. All I really need in the short term is for it to run and pass inspection. Anyone know how well these pass Texas emissions?
Basically I will take any and all comments and link to things to read about these cars. I have read quite a bit but mostly just for fun, now that I am actually looking at buying one there is a lot I don’t know. So anything you have to say is welcomed!
So I stopped in and said hi and asked some questions. And while talking I am told that a series 4 RX7 that is sitting out front if for sale for $500 cash. Well needless to say I am surprised and ask for the back story. Apparently some guy had the car about a year ago and brought it in for a rebuild. They finished rebuilding it and got it running, but somehow (forgot to ask) the wiring harness got fried and he brought it back.
So it has been sitting for a year with a freshly rebuilt engine and a burnt wring harness. He says it will start right up if you spray carb cleaner into the intake (would have him prove this before I bought it).
So my Question is this, is this a good deal? How much would a harness cost me? I found this on ebay: http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eB...246207874&rd=1 Would it work? The car is either an 87 or 88, I forgot which, it was a series 4. How hard is it to change the harness?
So anything to look out for? Anything else I need to check? The paint is a little messed up (not surprising with the Texas sun) and the inside is a little rough but it all appears to be there and ready to go. All I really need in the short term is for it to run and pass inspection. Anyone know how well these pass Texas emissions?
Basically I will take any and all comments and link to things to read about these cars. I have read quite a bit but mostly just for fun, now that I am actually looking at buying one there is a lot I don’t know. So anything you have to say is welcomed!
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He said that if he sprays carb cleaner into the intake it would start for a second before it died. Apperantly the injectors are the part of the harness that is bad and the rest works.
I am going to go back tonight and get some pictures, i will post them and let ya'll look at them and see what you say.
Oh, yeah. What should i look out for with a car that has been sitting for a year? is it ok to try to start it, with an oil change of course (since the injectors are not working right now i am not worried about the gas, it would be "running" off carb cleaner)
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Just because it will 'start up' off carb cleaner does not mean that it is making good compression, or that the seals haven't dried up too much by now. However, a year isn't as bad as it could be....
Basically, the car is going to be a gamble. How much money do you have to invest in this car? and how much are you willing to spend to make it work?
Basically, the car is going to be a gamble. How much money do you have to invest in this car? and how much are you willing to spend to make it work?
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Just because it will 'start up' off carb cleaner does not mean that it is making good compression, or that the seals haven't dried up too much by now. However, a year isn't as bad as it could be....
Basically, the car is going to be a gamble. How much money do you have to invest in this car? and how much are you willing to spend to make it work?
Basically, the car is going to be a gamble. How much money do you have to invest in this car? and how much are you willing to spend to make it work?
I just went by there again and got the story with the wiring harness. Apperantly the owner had left it to be fixed and was in the military and was not able to pick it up right away. When he finally did rats had chewed the wiring and that is what caused it to go bad.
The guy i talked to works on RX7's as a buissness so he knows what they are like and since it is not his car he has no reason to lie about it. So i think i trust him with what was/need to be done.
The Question is, is there anything else i should know before i buy it? I mean fo r$500 i am not out anything outrages and i have a few hundred more to put into it to get it running.
Here are some pictures:
ANY info would be great. Also, about the apex seals, i have heard something about ATF trick? Anybody got a link/Info?
#6
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I would wait to hear from someone more knowledgeable how long these cars can sit without running and still have the seals be in acceptable condition. If the seals are most likely still good, then I'd go for it.
By the way, I could SWEAR I've seen that car on this forum before, unless that paint color is a stock one that I'm not familiar with... I could be mistaken, but I think it's entirely possible that someone on here could have more information on that specific car.
Long story short, though- if the seals are still good, and you don't mind installing the wiring harness yourself, it sounds like a hell of a nice deal! By the way, it shouldn't be too difficult to pull that front bumper out and make it look better, in case you were wondering.
By the way, I could SWEAR I've seen that car on this forum before, unless that paint color is a stock one that I'm not familiar with... I could be mistaken, but I think it's entirely possible that someone on here could have more information on that specific car.
Long story short, though- if the seals are still good, and you don't mind installing the wiring harness yourself, it sounds like a hell of a nice deal! By the way, it shouldn't be too difficult to pull that front bumper out and make it look better, in case you were wondering.
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I would wait to hear from someone more knowledgeable how long these cars can sit without running and still have the seals be in acceptable condition. If the seals are most likely still good, then I'd go for it.
By the way, I could SWEAR I've seen that car on this forum before, unless that paint color is a stock one that I'm not familiar with... I could be mistaken, but I think it's entirely possible that someone on here could have more information on that specific car.
Long story short, though- if the seals are still good, and you don't mind installing the wiring harness yourself, it sounds like a hell of a nice deal! By the way, it shouldn't be too difficult to pull that front bumper out and make it look better, in case you were wondering.
By the way, I could SWEAR I've seen that car on this forum before, unless that paint color is a stock one that I'm not familiar with... I could be mistaken, but I think it's entirely possible that someone on here could have more information on that specific car.
Long story short, though- if the seals are still good, and you don't mind installing the wiring harness yourself, it sounds like a hell of a nice deal! By the way, it shouldn't be too difficult to pull that front bumper out and make it look better, in case you were wondering.
It is quite possible that it was on here. As i understand it the guy that used to have it was a big RX7 fan and from the looks of things he had a nice radio, alarm and other stuff that would not surprise me if he was on here. Plus the paint does look to be done later, it is peeling a little from the rear wheel well and the front of the bumper and doesn't look to be factory.
And yes, i was woundering if the bumper would be easy to fix or not, other than a nice wash that is really the only damage other than the hood not sitting totally flat (not sure why, was to hot form sitting in the sun to touch it much).
I am going to give the owner a call and see what i can find out.
Once again ANY info you want to pass along would be great!
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My advice is to save your money and get a good condition car. I know because ive been through three rx7s in two years..... For what it would take to get that car up and running and in good condition you could have just bought a good working car to begin with. Whyy start out with a piece of crap and work hard to get it working? You will end up spending a good bit of money to get it up and going, how much I dont think anyone knows bc you have no "real" idea of whats goin on with the car.... Dont be in a rush thatll just get you into trouble save up your money and sit back and wait for that good deal to come, it will come eventually like mine did....
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My advice is to save your money and get a good condition car. I know because ive been through three rx7s in two years..... For what it would take to get that car up and running and in good condition you could have just bought a good working car to begin with. Whyy start out with a piece of crap and work hard to get it working? You will end up spending a good bit of money to get it up and going, how much I dont think anyone knows bc you have no "real" idea of whats goin on with the car.... Dont be in a rush thatll just get you into trouble save up your money and sit back and wait for that good deal to come, it will come eventually like mine did....
1: there are NO RX7’s around here. And all the ones that are in good condition go for about $3k - $5k. That is WAY beyond what I could spend for a car right now.
2: My budget for getting the car is about $1k max. After I have it I will have a few grand to put into it over time though (don’t ask why I can’t save it up and get something better, it is called family politics, enough said).
3: The only other RX7’s I have been able to find have blown engines, and I have been thinking of getting one of those and swapping in a TII setup or maybe a 20b. So getting a car with a good body/frame and even an engine for $500 looks like a good deal to me.
In the long run I will very possibly swap in a different engine. All I want from this car right now is to be a good body/frame/tranny/ect. And run good enough to get inspected so I can start planning what I want to do with it. Now if you don’t think this would be good for this purpose then PLEASE tell me.
The way I see it, any 20 year old RX7 will need all the same parts changed/done as this one would with the exception of the engine. And I don’t care about cosmetics or the engine running perfect right now. Just running good enough to pass inspection.
#10
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My 91 NA, which started/ran fine (and still does) took three times to get through Colorado emissions and even then required a sympathetic (and stick shift competent) tech plus a healthy dose of denatured alcohol in the tank to pass.
BTW, in my experience it's the cosmetics that will get you every time.
It's hard to see from your pictures and I have no idea what you consider "acceptable" (especially for a daily driver) but compared to bodywork/paint the mechanical stuff is a cakewalk...basically it's all standard bolt out/bolt in, regular automotive tech.
I sympathize with your search...seems like all the amazing deals I see are on the coasts (probably where most of the RX's were sold, I'd guess) and us poor mid-continent folk have to choose from a much reduced pool. Over the course of 6 months looking here in Denver, I saw a grand total of 4 cars for sale and three of them were non-running project cars. In my two years of daily driving, I've seen ONE other 2nd gen on the street.
Oddly, there are three RX-8s in my neighborhood alone...go figure.
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I'm not familiar with Texas emissions but a rotary has to be running pretty damn well to pass smog tests.
My 91 NA, which started/ran fine (and still does) took three times to get through Colorado emissions and even then required a sympathetic (and stick shift competent) tech plus a healthy dose of denatured alcohol in the tank to pass.
BTW, in my experience it's the cosmetics that will get you every time.
It's hard to see from your pictures and I have no idea what you consider "acceptable" (especially for a daily driver) but compared to bodywork/paint the mechanical stuff is a cakewalk...basically it's all standard bolt out/bolt in, regular automotive tech.
I sympathize with your search...seems like all the amazing deals I see are on the coasts (probably where most of the RX's were sold, I'd guess) and us poor mid-continent folk have to choose from a much reduced pool. Over the course of 6 months looking here in Denver, I saw a grand total of 4 cars for sale and three of them were non-running project cars. In my two years of daily driving, I've seen ONE other 2nd gen on the street.
Oddly, there are three RX-8s in my neighborhood alone...go figure.
My 91 NA, which started/ran fine (and still does) took three times to get through Colorado emissions and even then required a sympathetic (and stick shift competent) tech plus a healthy dose of denatured alcohol in the tank to pass.
BTW, in my experience it's the cosmetics that will get you every time.
It's hard to see from your pictures and I have no idea what you consider "acceptable" (especially for a daily driver) but compared to bodywork/paint the mechanical stuff is a cakewalk...basically it's all standard bolt out/bolt in, regular automotive tech.
I sympathize with your search...seems like all the amazing deals I see are on the coasts (probably where most of the RX's were sold, I'd guess) and us poor mid-continent folk have to choose from a much reduced pool. Over the course of 6 months looking here in Denver, I saw a grand total of 4 cars for sale and three of them were non-running project cars. In my two years of daily driving, I've seen ONE other 2nd gen on the street.
Oddly, there are three RX-8s in my neighborhood alone...go figure.
This cars cosmetics are rough, to be expected from a car that has sat for a year but mainly just dirty. A good wash and wax will make a huge difference I think. The inside is in need of some help but once again a good cleaning will get fix 90% of it. The only real problem inside is the seats are pretty much gone, I will need to get new ones at some point.
For me the cosmetics with a good cleaning should actually look quite nice with only minor work needed. There is no rust on the car and the frame is good. The only place that the paint is even really having problems is on the front bumper and the driver side rear quarter panel. Both of which I know a guy I could get to repaint those for a few hundred at some point.
The engine passing inspection is the real problem. Texas missions are not that hard but will get some cars. But there is a little known program that if you fail inspection the state will give you up to $500 to make repairs to get it to pass or get a new car. So with $500 I could get all new cats and O2 sensor which with some other tricks might just might get it to pass. And I have to have it pass emissions to be able to park it on the street. And until I get it parked on the street my truck (nice 4runner that has already been broken into, supercharging it next week by the way) has to be on the street.
At this point I really would like to know how long the apex seals last without being ran if anyone knows. I think I am going to get it and see what I can do with it. If all else fails I can always sell it around here for at least $500 since there are none to be found around.
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Ok, update to this old thread as i am not sure if this board is one that likes new threads for things liek this or likes bumping old threads for things like this.
FINALLY got the car today (the seller was really busy and just now was able to get around to it). So i towed it home and looked it over a little closer. I have to say i like it even better now that it is home then i did there. So that is a good sign.
Pics:
Found a bouns that in the campartment, apperantly the guys that took the rear speakers and the faceplate didn't know about this:
It is a little rough, but so would any car that has been sitting for a year or 2. The good news is that the body is strigh and other than minor dents in good conition.
The paint is desent with a good wash and wax, only a few chips, the rest is just dirt and fading.
Inside it is very dirty but everything is there and in good codition.
In fact the biggest cosmitic problem of the whole car is that the hood doesn't sit flat (you can see it in the pictures). I don't know what is up with that but hope i can fix it. then the bumper.
Now mechnically it looks to be in good shape and was told it ran fine before rats got into the wiring harness (which i already have a new one). So i am going to follow cakes unstoring tips page and get it ready to try this weekend.
The clutch is bad though, would i just need to replace the slave? or the master too?
FINALLY got the car today (the seller was really busy and just now was able to get around to it). So i towed it home and looked it over a little closer. I have to say i like it even better now that it is home then i did there. So that is a good sign.
Pics:
Found a bouns that in the campartment, apperantly the guys that took the rear speakers and the faceplate didn't know about this:
It is a little rough, but so would any car that has been sitting for a year or 2. The good news is that the body is strigh and other than minor dents in good conition.
The paint is desent with a good wash and wax, only a few chips, the rest is just dirt and fading.
Inside it is very dirty but everything is there and in good codition.
In fact the biggest cosmitic problem of the whole car is that the hood doesn't sit flat (you can see it in the pictures). I don't know what is up with that but hope i can fix it. then the bumper.
Now mechnically it looks to be in good shape and was told it ran fine before rats got into the wiring harness (which i already have a new one). So i am going to follow cakes unstoring tips page and get it ready to try this weekend.
The clutch is bad though, would i just need to replace the slave? or the master too?
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When it comes to hydraulics, my preference has always been to replace the whole circuit (in this case, that means the hose, too) rather than chase the problem and have to bleed/rebleed multiple times.
Besides, the MC, slave and hose are pretty cheap.
Be aware...there is a condenser (part of the oil pressure gauge circuit) that is (supposedly) attached to one of the slave cylinder mounting bolts. Yours may still be in place.
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Congratulations.
When it comes to hydraulics, my preference has always been to replace the whole circuit (in this case, that means the hose, too) rather than chase the problem and have to bleed/rebleed multiple times.
Besides, the MC, slave and hose are pretty cheap.
Be aware...there is a condenser (part of the oil pressure gauge circuit) that is (supposedly) attached to one of the slave cylinder mounting bolts. Yours may still be in place.
When it comes to hydraulics, my preference has always been to replace the whole circuit (in this case, that means the hose, too) rather than chase the problem and have to bleed/rebleed multiple times.
Besides, the MC, slave and hose are pretty cheap.
Be aware...there is a condenser (part of the oil pressure gauge circuit) that is (supposedly) attached to one of the slave cylinder mounting bolts. Yours may still be in place.
So where would i get the SC, MC and hose? I can get a slave from a shop where i got the car from, he said he had an extra i could have. But don't know about the MC. Also, how hard are they to swtich out and about how much should they cost?
Oh, yeah, i figured out why the hood was sitting cockeyed. there was a plastic piece holding part of the hood up. So i removed that and now have a screw driver sitting on the other side to try ot even it out. Though it is already almost right!
So that leaves the bumper as the biggest cosmitic problem, i wounder if that can be bent out and made to look nice, the paint on it is not great either.
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I have to say i am very happy at this point and if i can get it running without too much problems i will be VERY VERY happy.
I have always wanted an RX7 and refuse to own a front wheel drive car. so that leaves the RX7 and MR2 as the 2 cars i want most. Finding a nice one for $500 is a bouns! Around here shells with bad engines go for at least $1000 (seen 3 sold in the last 3 weeks alone for $1000+.)
I have always wanted an RX7 and refuse to own a front wheel drive car. so that leaves the RX7 and MR2 as the 2 cars i want most. Finding a nice one for $500 is a bouns! Around here shells with bad engines go for at least $1000 (seen 3 sold in the last 3 weeks alone for $1000+.)
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Look up and learn what and where a fuel pulsation dampener is, i highly recommend replacing it with a new one if its the original, they have a habit of going bad after nearly twenty years and leaking fuel onto your hot engine, its actually pretty close to where the chewed up wires are, its on the secondary fuel rail under part of the intake. Theres a whole debate over replacing or doing the banjo bolt mod, i did the banjo, my buddy replaced, both run fine so i cant recommend either one over the other.
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Thats the most important part!
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I just hope you got compression numbers... If its got acceptable numbers for a rebuild then it sounds like you got a great deal but if it lost compression for any reason then it's a bit steep. Take the wiring harness out and send it out to get rebuilt. I am not sure who it was that does it but it should be about the same price as a used harness and most used harness's aren't in much better condition.
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And i will get a built-up thread started.
Look up and learn what and where a fuel pulsation dampener is, i highly recommend replacing it with a new one if its the original, they have a habit of going bad after nearly twenty years and leaking fuel onto your hot engine, its actually pretty close to where the chewed up wires are, its on the secondary fuel rail under part of the intake. Theres a whole debate over replacing or doing the banjo bolt mod, i did the banjo, my buddy replaced, both run fine so i cant recommend either one over the other.
I just hope you got compression numbers... If its got acceptable numbers for a rebuild then it sounds like you got a great deal but if it lost compression for any reason then it's a bit steep. Take the wiring harness out and send it out to get rebuilt. I am not sure who it was that does it but it should be about the same price as a used harness and most used harness's aren't in much better condition.
And i actually already have a new harness, just got it yesterday. So i should have it ready to chage out.
I need to make that build-up thread later so i can get into the tecnical questions better.....
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Nice buy....is that color original...I didn't peruse the entire thread.
On possible solution is to pull all wiring and go standalone. Microtec would be a great option, and not too expensive.
Make sure the battery is fully charged and check compression....otherwise, enjoy!
On possible solution is to pull all wiring and go standalone. Microtec would be a great option, and not too expensive.
Make sure the battery is fully charged and check compression....otherwise, enjoy!
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