Fouling plugs above 5000rpm
03-13-05, 09:51 PM
#26
Ok I put the dp/mp/apexi n1 on. It's a fuckload faster, thats for damn sure. It's up to 11psi, but it still breaks up at 5000rpm. I also removed the air pump and ACV.
Not really sure what I'm going to do at this point....
My tentative plan is to wait a few months, pull the UIM, get the injectors cleaned and put an AFC on it... I guess it'll still be a bandaid.
I noticed also that the o2 wire was pretty chewed up. I replaced some of it. but it looks cracked going into the harness.
Not really sure what I'm going to do at this point....
My tentative plan is to wait a few months, pull the UIM, get the injectors cleaned and put an AFC on it... I guess it'll still be a bandaid.
I noticed also that the o2 wire was pretty chewed up. I replaced some of it. but it looks cracked going into the harness.
03-25-05, 11:18 AM
#31
As a follow up to this thread the issue my car was having was that the thermowax was not opening all the way due to clogged coolant passages in the TB. I found this while peforming the TB mod and realized what happened after I read this article on the FC3Spro.com web page.
"High idle problems can be caused by the cold-start thermowax or the corresponding coolant passages for the thermowax. The high idle is usually a very consistent 1,200RPM to 3,000RPM.
Clogged coolant passages prevent proper functioning of the thermowax by preventing proper coolant flow. The thermowax doesn't melt, and the throttle plates are stuck in the high-idle position. These coolant passages from from the back of the water pump housing to the BAC valve to the throttle body and eventually end going down the top of the rear rotor side housing.
If the thermowax itself failed, you'll need to replace the unit. "
"High idle problems can be caused by the cold-start thermowax or the corresponding coolant passages for the thermowax. The high idle is usually a very consistent 1,200RPM to 3,000RPM.
Clogged coolant passages prevent proper functioning of the thermowax by preventing proper coolant flow. The thermowax doesn't melt, and the throttle plates are stuck in the high-idle position. These coolant passages from from the back of the water pump housing to the BAC valve to the throttle body and eventually end going down the top of the rear rotor side housing.
If the thermowax itself failed, you'll need to replace the unit. "
03-25-05, 11:38 AM
#32
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Originally Posted by f1blueRx7
As a follow up to this thread the issue my car was having was that the thermowax was not opening all the way due to clogged coolant passages in the TB. I found this while peforming the TB mod and realized what happened after I read this article on the FC3Spro.com web page.
"High idle problems can be caused by the cold-start thermowax or the corresponding coolant passages for the thermowax. The high idle is usually a very consistent 1,200RPM to 3,000RPM.
Clogged coolant passages prevent proper functioning of the thermowax by preventing proper coolant flow. The thermowax doesn't melt, and the throttle plates are stuck in the high-idle position. These coolant passages from from the back of the water pump housing to the BAC valve to the throttle body and eventually end going down the top of the rear rotor side housing.
If the thermowax itself failed, you'll need to replace the unit. "
"High idle problems can be caused by the cold-start thermowax or the corresponding coolant passages for the thermowax. The high idle is usually a very consistent 1,200RPM to 3,000RPM.
Clogged coolant passages prevent proper functioning of the thermowax by preventing proper coolant flow. The thermowax doesn't melt, and the throttle plates are stuck in the high-idle position. These coolant passages from from the back of the water pump housing to the BAC valve to the throttle body and eventually end going down the top of the rear rotor side housing.
If the thermowax itself failed, you'll need to replace the unit. "
My condition happend by running realy rich. I found out one day when something dangerous happend. I was testing out the car in 2nd gear, and the afm popped off the TID. The car then suddenly pulled beautifully and quickly died( fuel cut from the flapper being closed).
03-25-05, 12:09 PM
#33
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my car has the stuck high idle that is described above and i also have the problem that started the thread but my car is a S4 plugs are fouled can i cant get the RPMs above about 5000 even while not in gear
when i try i get tons of black smoke out the pipes and its acts like its hitting a rev limiter as in it will just kinda bounce around up there not going past 5500 or so
can i remove the thermo wax without removing the TP and UIM cause the last guy that had the car put some sort of gasket schlack (sp?) on there and i cant get them apart for the life of me they are stuck good and yes i do have all the bolts and nuts taken out
when i try i get tons of black smoke out the pipes and its acts like its hitting a rev limiter as in it will just kinda bounce around up there not going past 5500 or so
can i remove the thermo wax without removing the TP and UIM cause the last guy that had the car put some sort of gasket schlack (sp?) on there and i cant get them apart for the life of me they are stuck good and yes i do have all the bolts and nuts taken out
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