Flywheels... how light is too light?
#1
clutch artist
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Flywheels... how light is too light?
i want a lighter flywheel for my STREET driven 2nd gen...i intend to buy the 17 pound steel one, but im wondering if the aluminum is worth the extra $100. the difference is probably negligible off the track i'd assume. the stock flywheel weighs in the range of 25 pounds, correct?
http://www.mazdatrix.com/flywheel.htm
http://www.mazdatrix.com/flywheel.htm
#2
i heard you wouldnt want alumi for streets, but i got it but i havent driven it yet. i cant give you note on that. light steel feels pretty good from another seven i drove. almost like stock but pickup is a little nicer. by nicer i mean seems to rev a little faster. nothing much more than that, i wouldnt say it gives you better speed to a sense that you can notice it.
#3
clutch artist
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im just wondering if the aluminum will casual shifts a female dog because i dont wanna have to shift from 3rd to 4th at 35mph at light speed because my rpms drop so quickly, i know it'd be great for shifting at 6400rpm
#5
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If you never have to deal with stop and go driving, Aluminum is ok. Otherwise, stay with lightened steel. Less flywheel weight, more slip clutching needed to keep from stalling the engine from a dead start. Been there, done that. I'm a lighten steel guy as a result.
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I have a Fidanza 8 lb. on my '89 NA, and I am extremely happy with it. If you have a turbo, it might be better to stick with a heavier one because of something to do with losing less boost between shifts or something like that. If you do have a turbo, then hopefully someone else can clarify that for you.
If not, like I said I love my flywheel, and I don't think I could ever drive another car without one. It revs a lot faster and I think it also frees up about 10-12 horsepower at the wheels. It's not anywhere near as hard to drive as everyone makes it out to be, and now that I have driven this one I will probably be disappointed if I ever bought a heavier one. You have to either shift somewhat fast or give it a little gas in between shifts, because it does drop faster. You don't have to slam gears though. It's a great buy, and I say go for it!
Oh yeah, and stop and go traffic also isn't as bad as people say it is (just my opinion).
If not, like I said I love my flywheel, and I don't think I could ever drive another car without one. It revs a lot faster and I think it also frees up about 10-12 horsepower at the wheels. It's not anywhere near as hard to drive as everyone makes it out to be, and now that I have driven this one I will probably be disappointed if I ever bought a heavier one. You have to either shift somewhat fast or give it a little gas in between shifts, because it does drop faster. You don't have to slam gears though. It's a great buy, and I say go for it!
Oh yeah, and stop and go traffic also isn't as bad as people say it is (just my opinion).
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thanks... by female dog i meant a word which im not sure i can use heh heh. but how much faster do the rpms fall with the aluminum vs. stock or light steel? let's say a shift from 3rd to 4th at 35 mph, i do this all the time driving through a town. i dont have my car so idk how much the rpms drop in that shift but it's definitely less than 1000. will i have to shift super fast to ensure they don't drop below where i need them for 4th gear? you know, perhaps 35 in 3rd @ 2500 to 35 in 4th @ 1750rpm
and how much do those stock flywheels weigh ?
plus if anyone could give radii for the stock and aftermarket we could figure out exactly the differences between them
1/2*mass*radius squared = rotational inertia of a disk
and how much do those stock flywheels weigh ?
plus if anyone could give radii for the stock and aftermarket we could figure out exactly the differences between them
1/2*mass*radius squared = rotational inertia of a disk
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I don't see the problem...
I got a Racing beat Alum. with a Spec clutch on my TII
i love the superlight revs it gives.. just blip the throttle and the rpm dances..
I can't imagine what it would be like with lightened and balanced internals and a good port..
unless your into Drag racing on the strip... where inertia of the F/W helps
go with the lightest one u can
I got a Racing beat Alum. with a Spec clutch on my TII
i love the superlight revs it gives.. just blip the throttle and the rpm dances..
I can't imagine what it would be like with lightened and balanced internals and a good port..
unless your into Drag racing on the strip... where inertia of the F/W helps
go with the lightest one u can
#15
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I have a 9 pound flywheel. Going from stock to this was noticable, but nothing you can't work with. Give it a little more RPM before engaging the clutch. Now the engine revs like a bike.
The clutch/pressure plate is what gives people hell. Mine definately presented a learning curve.
The clutch/pressure plate is what gives people hell. Mine definately presented a learning curve.
#16
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I dunno, maybe its the fact that I really hate stop and go traffic. It just seems like I have to slip it a little more than in other manuals I drive. For all I know its just the difference in weight and gearing, since I've only driven it with this flywheel. Honestly, its really not that bad, but theres not much point in getting a aluminum flywheel for a street driven car. If you auto-x it or something then sure, spring for it, but otherwise you will still get good benefits from just the lightened steel one.
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