jinxed4dub

iTrader: (7)

the flywheel is stopped. Ok so I've tryed alot of methods. 2 differant large impact guns, electric not air I don't have air but a dewalt and a millwakie. a braker bar, and my foot, a braker bar and a floor jack I've used heat, PB blaster, in every combonation of about methods. I'm out of ideas. I'm about to just cut the ****** off, or buy a air compressor.

anybody have any ideas?

Derekcat

iTrader: (8)

For me, I've got a half inch DeWalt impact that takes it right off after using propane on just the nut for 10-15 sec...

No go like that? If that's not doing it... I doubt the air tools will help. Maybe a bit longer on the heat?

jinxed4dub

iTrader: (7)

Yeah, that didn't work. and I used a 3/4 inch dewalt. all it did is start to chip flakes off the bolt. I also went for longer than 15 seconds. more like 45 to a whole minute. I've done this before with less. never had this stuck of a bolt.

How long can a heat it before I do damage?? I'm not worried about the flywheel it self. I'm willing to sacrafice that.

Just to make sure its not reverse threaded. it doesn't look like it.

Anyone ever use the loc tight freeze stuff? or know where to buy it?

S1sevenNZ

Cold chisel and hammer then just find/buy another nut.

Derekcat

iTrader: (8)

Well, what I was told was to heat the nut until it changes color *slightly*

Otherwise you're just expanding both. [Or perhaps the heat is primarily to destroy the loctite?]

Was this one that you'd installed?

Also, if you do chisel the nut off I have a spare..

JWteknix

iTrader: (2)

put a long pipe on the end of the breakerbar or hit it with a chisel both work

nycgps

iTrader: (4)

took me a little time to take mine off.

I tried it with my impact, not a strong one, about 400 lbs, nothing. for an hour something.

then I heat the nut a bit with my small torch for maybe 30 seconds, heat the NUT, not the shaft.

finally, hit it again with my impact it came right off.

/end my story

oinesra

iTrader: (2)

If the motor is still in the car
http://www.vannattabros.com/saw48.html

If the motor is on a stand, go get a 6 foot fence post for a cheater bar.

SpeedOfLife

iTrader: (16)

just don't tip your stand. you'll hate yourself. the flywheel nut is notoriously difficult to remove if it's been on there for years.

Aaron Cake

iTrader: (1)

Apply heat. A good 5 minutes with a propane torch running brazing fuel and the Loctite should be released. Then most decent electric impacts should be able to take it off. You can heat the nut for a good long while without any damage. You'll be replacing the rear oil seal anyway as it is, and you should take this time to replace the pilot seal.

2slow4stock

iTrader: (18)

Use an air compressor and a good air gun. Never broke a sweat with one. But I've had more problems removing the front pulley bolt. Never the flywheel nut...

Puck

iTrader: (1)

I hope you aren't pushing down on that pipe... I believe you would be tightening it then!

MrGoodnight

iTrader: (1)

Like Aaron cake said use a torch to heat it up, dont worry about it expanding because thats what breaks it free.

arghx

iTrader: (3)

most electric impacts don't have the torque of pneumatic ones

theflatlander

iTrader: (3)

^^^Air tools or nothing at all.

point-blank

iTrader: (9)

http://www.harborfreight.com/3-4-qua...nch-92353.html

came off instantly haha

jinxed4dub

iTrader: (7)

I'm not worried about heating the nut itself I understand that I'm trying to get it to expand, just I know the E shaft will be heated as well and don't wish to fatiuge the metal. its aluminum, easy to warp I'd think. I know I'm only heating the bolt, but that heats gonna go into the e shaft. Yes I am replacing the rear main seal, and pilot bearing, I got the pilot bearing out already.

I have a 3/4 air impact, just no compressor that can run the damb thing. I'll try more heat. If not its getting cut. I'm sick of not having my car. its been months. I still need to do the rear end, and misc other stuff. summers here.

SpeedOfLife

iTrader: (16)

No, the eccentric shaft is steel. Put a magnet to it. The long cheater bar is how I got mine loose, but now that I have a badass compressor I built I probably won't have to dick with that any more. I just picked up the 1/2" version of the Earthquake impact gun, it'll probably work using a little higher pressure.
http://www.harborfreight.com/1-2-hal...ench-2623.html

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=sr4DmqlTbtQ

overpaid4myfc

iTrader: (14)

I've taken off at least 3 different flywheel nuts on 3 different blocks using an 8 gallon air compressor with a 400 lb half in impact. Since the flywheel is held by whatever method you are choosing to use to keep it stationary, I would just use a big jack handle or large fence pipe as a cheater bar over your half inch rachet.

fc323

http://www.sears.com/shc/s/p_10153_1...9984000P?mv=rr try that one!!

jinxed4dub

iTrader: (7)

I've got some of the freeze stuff, a new bottle of propaine, This bitch is coming off..... I hope.

Huh, I just assumed by looking at it that it was aluminum. so shiny. Never really looked at one up close. I've managed to not have to I'm gonna leave it at that as to not jinx myself.

PvillKnight7

iTrader: (16)

+1

Never fails just watch your fingers

Carzy Driver

put the engine in the back of a truck and head to a tire shop, bring the socket. go in and ask for their help. may cost a soda if anything at all.

RotaryEvolution

iTrader: (30)

ditto

a 3/4" didn't have the *****? i have removed literally about 400 of those flywheel nuts with my 1/2" Mac air impact. no heat necessary ever.

chisel and hammer works well if you have no air tools/compressor or have an electric impact that is pink and has no nuts.

2slow4stock

iTrader: (18)

why is there still a debate? It's compressor or bust. I have a cheap impact gun and it took it off no problem. 1/2 to 3/4 adapter with flywheel socket. no problem...