crasher2

sorry drunk cant spell right now

Felix Wankel

No way in hell I'd go under a 17# in my TII, I have a 4 puck clutch. Its hard enough to take off as it is, you can't slip my clutch at all. Maybe on my FB, which is meant for the autox...

FEDREX

Gee, thanks for enlightening us all. There's not one comment on this thread that indicates aluminum flywheels were designed for drag racing.

BTW, I'd be more than happy to line up with some lt. steel or OEM flywheel drivers - wouldn't phase me a bit.

RX-7 Turbo II

where can i find a 9.5 lbs flywheel?

crasher2

some people on here have stated that it is hard to get going light weight flywheel

FEDREX

www.srx7.com Talk to Ray Lochead - he's happy to answer any questions for you...if he's still there.

Grimlock

it's easy to drive in traffic and easy to take off. the car feels much lighter as compared with the stock f/w.

i have an 88TII and it helps the turbo spool faster. all in all i am happy with it. the only bad part would be i have to change that ring once it wears out but oh well. something im willing to deal with.

i just love the excellaration though, makes a TII much quicker....id say if your gonna stay with stock turbo for a while get as light a flywheel as you can. if you have a bigger turbo then get a 20lb fd f/w perhaps should be much cheaper than after market ones.

they should bolt right up. shouldnt they?

blue88gxl N/A

i'm thinking about getting the flywheel and clutch combo at shaneracing.com or srmotorsports.com
the flywheel weighs 9.5 pounds
my question is why do they come with a counterweight..do i have to replace my eccentric shaft counterweight to put the lighter flywheel on?

Ryde _Or_Die

I really haven't came to a conclusion about getting a lighter flywheel or not. I want to everything I guess. I am mostly looking for drag racing type acceleration and also want driveability as this will be driven alot. Right this second I am thinking about the 17# one since it should be the best overall of everything. Hope thats right.

Felix Wankel

Its to replace the counterweight that is cast into the stock flywheel. That, and there would be no way to attach it to the car without the counterweight (you'll see what I mean if you look at a light flywheel)...

cbrock

iTrader: (1)

I had a 10lb flywheel in my AWD talon and it was no problem at all. I'd figure light flywheel and awd would prove to be the worst combo for street driving but guess what? The car acted almost like stock. Except for how quickly it got up to rpm. Any loss of down low torque was replaced by the quick revs and turbo spool of the 20g. I think I stalled once with it in place and that was because I was in a pothole. I'm now waiting to have enough cash to do the same to my rx. Go with the 9.5lb you'll like it..trust me.

HOZZMANRX7

iTrader: (43)

Yes, it was in my FB that I first went aluminum. DAILY DRIVING in stop and go, aluminum was just too much a pain as to the slip clutching you have to do to keep from stalling your engine. This problem is only made worst in a heavier FC. And, since you asked, I was and continue to use Centerforce clutch pressure plates and disc's. Also, a good compromise for mainting driveability while also getting extra clutch clamping when I get on it.

For DAILY DRIVING, a lighten steel flywheel is an excellent alternative. Get the faster rev's of a lighter flywheel, still enough weight inertia to minimize slip clutching from stops. I'm running lightened steel in my Vert and '85 SE. Wouldn't have it any other way.

Now, for spirited windy road driving, autocross, etc etc, aluminum is very cool. I'm the first to admit that in most cases the trade off for performance is reduced driveability. We all have our balance point on where to draw that line in our daily drivers.

To each their own.

RETed

This is what I would recommend to you...
If you're unsure, try and see if you can find an FC with a light aluminum flywheel to test drive...



-Ted

kim307

iTrader: (1)

Well, my main concern is Drag Racing, but I will go with the aluminum one. I'm trying to get most out of my N/A. These 1.3L N/A are pretty damn weak as they come in stock and before I do any major engine work(such as P-port that I'm saving up for) I want to make sure that I'm getting every single HP that I could get to the ground and still have it driveable on the streets. I don't about 9.5#, but I am thinking about going with the Racing Beat's 12# aluminum one.

Jay Kim