What size socket do i need to remove the flywheel bolt on a 86 n/a base

 

2-1/8th or 54 mm...and it's a flywheel nut,not a bolt.

 

I have the socket. Got it for free a few years back. It's not really worth buying if you're only going to use it once or twice... Find somewhere to rent or borrow it.

 

Northern Industrial JUMBO Socket - 54mm, 3/4in. Drive is the tool i bought for around twenty bucks not to bad. Almost the same price as a new flywheel nut...

 

And for the record, flywheel removal is covered in the FAQ.

More to the point is what kind of torque you need to put on the socket. You'll need either a good 3 - 6 foot breaker bar, or a good 500 Ft-LBs or greater impact gun. Heat the nut to remove any loctite. Nice thing about the impact gun is you don't have to figure out how to hold the engine as you put > 1000 FT-LBs of torque onto the nut with a massive breaker bar.

 

*You might need 500 ft/lbs or greater

My 1/2" Dewalt electric [300ft/lbs] does fine when using propane on the nut [which you should always do no matter what you use..]

 

the flywheel nut rarely is on more than 250ft/lbs, never have had to use heat or a breaker bar. the front hub bolt on the other hand...

 

yeah, its weird. probably due to larger surface area ?

I can't take the front hub bolt out no matter how hard my impact hits, propane torch it for a minute, came out in 10 seconds ...

 

usually it's the loctite just bakes it in place.

 

I know, those thing really works !

 

Luck of the draw I guess.

And I've had to heat those front hub bolts to cherry red to get them to budge.

 

depends on the impact also i suppose. mine is a 400ft/lbs rated rebadged Mac tools from IR. it does the rated amount, being in the auto industry i have seen many not come anywhere near their claimed output levels. it's a similar science to dynomometers, some are more accurate than others. but this sucker is also as heavy as it looks, don't drop it on your foot... some of the front hub bolts i had to heat so extremely that i thought the oil in the pan was going to ignite or the head of the bolt snap off(oxy acetylene glowing cherry then hit up right away with 300+ ft/lbs).

since those experiences i put the flywheel nut on as tight as i can get it with the impact, with the front bolt i cinch it down with a ratchet and then a single tap on the impact to get it in the 90ft/lb ball park. i believe most shops just zap it on as tight as their gun will go and it only gets tighter with age.

i do that because i have seen a flywheel key sheared almost in half when one engine locked up at redline, that is how flywheels explode.

 

500lbs impact gun is a little much i think.. by the time i got the nut off with the impact gun, it was chipped to hell, and definitely unusable. next time i will be using a breaker bar just to be safe

 

busted the flywheel nut and the front eccentric shaft pully bolt off at my school auto shop with an impact, wasnt very hard, sepecially with a torch what do you guys recomend for the procedure for putting those two back on?

 

Back on is easy.

Follow the FSM instructions and torque for the front hub.

The flywheel, put some sealant on the back side of the bolt and a bit of red Loctite on the threads. Tighten the nut down by hand, then turn it the distance of 60 degrees with the impact. 60 degrees is the distance between each point on the nut, so just make some marks on the flywheel and nut for reference.

 

thanks man