Flushing out Radiator
10-14-04, 11:04 AM
#51
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Ok......so its not fixed......I was drivin yesterday and it was all fine and dandy but once I stopped and went inside my friend's house, I let the car on, I was in there around 2.5 minutes and when I came out the car's temp was raising.......this is really wierd cause isnt a car suposed to start heating up under acceleration....not at idle.....if anyone can help I will appreciate it. I agree with Mark.......I think my radiator is gone....i could be wrong tho...
PS: I was looking at the coolant to see if there were bubbles or no and at idle the coolant is like not pushed out to where its gushing but its up to the top of the hole but when I accelerate it goes down and into the engine it seems
PS: I was looking at the coolant to see if there were bubbles or no and at idle the coolant is like not pushed out to where its gushing but its up to the top of the hole but when I accelerate it goes down and into the engine it seems
Last edited by xvampyrex; 10-14-04 at 11:27 AM.
10-14-04, 11:48 AM
#52
If the car is oveheating while standing and cools when its being driven hard then you are getting enough airflow ie; your fan is not functioning properly. So it's half fixed get an electric fan or new fan clutch whatever is cheaper or more to your liking.
Also keep an eye on the radiatior, my OEM radiator spontaneously spilt its plastic top the length of the radiator. The car wasn't even running just found a big puddle of green in front of the car in the morning. On the plus side the aftermarket performance radiators are cheaper than what Mazda wants for a stock one. I picked up a 2-pass radiator with an aluminum core and brass top and bottom for $240, the car never goes over the middle temp wise, I've let it sit and run for an hour with no temp spike.
Also keep an eye on the radiatior, my OEM radiator spontaneously spilt its plastic top the length of the radiator. The car wasn't even running just found a big puddle of green in front of the car in the morning. On the plus side the aftermarket performance radiators are cheaper than what Mazda wants for a stock one. I picked up a 2-pass radiator with an aluminum core and brass top and bottom for $240, the car never goes over the middle temp wise, I've let it sit and run for an hour with no temp spike.
10-14-04, 12:00 PM
#53
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ok.....just read all 4 pages....u said once it overheated the fan spins freely...which it shouldnt do.....so this is what u do.....take the fan clutch assembly out.....4 bolts...check the 4 screws that the fan clutch bolts onto.....and make sure they're tight..i replaced my fan clutch yesterday with a efan and i noticed that the bolts on the pulley side were very loose, loose enough that i can take them off by hand......i assumed the fan clutch didnt have enough contact with the engine to maintain a constant heat transfer.....if the bolts are tight then ur fan clutch could be dead, once its warmed up.....check if the fan is blowing air..it should be powerful...mine was barely blowing....the easiest way to check would be to pour water near the thermostat area...water shouldnt flow straight down..more at an angle(pushed by the air).......
10-14-04, 12:08 PM
#54
Ok......so its not fixed......I was drivin yesterday and it was all fine and dandy but once I stopped and went inside my friend's house, I let the car on, I was in there around 2.5 minutes and when I came out the car's temp was raising.......this is really wierd cause isnt a car suposed to start heating up under acceleration....not at idle.....if anyone can help I will appreciate it. I agree with Mark.......I think my radiator is gone....i could be wrong tho...
10-14-04, 12:34 PM
#55
Tennis, anyone
yesterday i took my car to get smoged, the thing sat at idle for an hour or more.
the temp never went over 1/4 on the guage. take that radiator and throw it across the street and get another one. i know your not asking the forum what could be the problem. you know what the problem is take care of it, c'mon now
'nuff said.
the temp never went over 1/4 on the guage. take that radiator and throw it across the street and get another one. i know your not asking the forum what could be the problem. you know what the problem is take care of it, c'mon now
'nuff said.
10-14-04, 08:10 PM
#56
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last thing..........I think I might have blown some internal seal because I see condensation on the inside of the oil cap....what could that be....it aint greenish like coolant its clear like water......what could that be? Should I start looking for a rebuild?
10-14-04, 08:16 PM
#57
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Originally Posted by 7th Heaven
total opposite for me... if i get stuck in a school zone my gauge creeps to 50% or more. but when i get out on the open road going 50-60mph in 5th gear, it goes back down to 25%.
sounds a classic case of broken fan clutch
10-15-04, 02:53 AM
#60
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Originally Posted by xvampyrex
no its completely clear and feels like water
Well that means you have moisture in your oil, obviously. It is either from contamination of the oil by moisture build up int he atmosphere like on a cold night or it the inevitable, a faulty water seal which ultimately will result in needing a rebuild eventually. Either way, try the radiator sealer first.
10-15-04, 05:01 AM
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I know its not mixing the water and oil because if it was when I pull out the dipstick wouldnt it be white? the oil is still looks new....not even black yet......though I need an oil change.....gotta do that....but first i want to stop the heating problem
10-15-04, 12:21 PM
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Hmmm ok new question.........does this sound like the radiator or the fan clutch....if I drive the car it doesnt heat up but when Im stopped like at my driveway it does....while driving it heats up abit but not a whole lot....I think that sounds more like the fan clutch....am I correct?
10-15-04, 01:45 PM
#64
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hahaha.....the dont stop seems like a good idea....i installed the efan not too long ago and the engine is more willing to be revved.....or it could be just me stepping on it harder....if u manage to find a good fan clutch from the junkyard or something..do that. simpler to fix, but if u cant....efan is the cheaper way to go..i got my setup ~120 dollars(fan, switch, mounts)...just gotta spend some time on ebay....im currently in the process of fabbing up the fan shroud got the riveting tool and as soon as i pick up some alumium sheets i should be able to get to work....ohh yeah..with my efan my temp never goes above 1/8
10-15-04, 07:42 PM
#65
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Lol dont stop....hehe could do that.....but ya....Im mostlikely going to go with an e-fan cause its really hard to find a good FC at the junkyard and when you do find one its missing all the **** that is important like the engine and ****.
10-15-04, 08:06 PM
#66
Tennis, anyone
yeah , i'd say get another fan clutch. and then if it still heats up whats the last thing left to replace ?????.. if you get an e-fan, try to get one that pulls, draws,sucks, whatever it's called over a pusher.. fan direction.
10-16-04, 11:59 AM
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hmm....pull style u mount behind the rad...pulls the air through the rad and into the fan, push just works the opposite way.....dont know about one better than teh other....maybe in terms of mounting......FCs dont have much space for push style fans cause of the condensor and oil cooler in the front...
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