So my TII has the flooding issue. I thought it was leaking injectors/bad compression (don't know which one it is on my car, but I'm assuming injectors). Anyway, I was trying to unflood it in a car audio parking lot, and it was giving me some troubles. The guy who owns the palce has a rotary pickup and has had some other rotaries, and he mentioned that his used to do the same thing. He then proceeded to tell me that when he replaced the mass air flow meter the problem went away, saying that it's getting the wrong amount of air in the mixture or something. He told me that I should think about replacing mine. Is there any validity to this? 'Cause I'm really getting tired of having to pull the EGI fuse EVERY TIME I try to start the car warm!

 

Maybe you should start there. Check your compression. If it is good (anything above 85psi i would say you're safe) then you've narrowed your search.

Yes there is validity, i used to have minor flooding issues, then i replaced my MAF and the car starts and runs easier/better than it ever has.

 

Hm. I can check the compression, but I am having the damnest time finding the injectors... I don't know much about fuel injection...I'll check the FSM soon.

 

I own a HAYNES manual, and i built the whole car up with that book alone. Look into it.

The injectors are located under intercooler and the upper intake manifold. You cant really see them unless you take off UIM. I would check your "easier to access" parts before taking the UIM off.... compression, spark, air leaks....

 

Air leaks...I don't imagine I have any, but I can look. Maybe it's something simple like the plugs. I have to order them though, local Napa doesn't stock them. Because even though the car is supposedly completely stock, it doesn't do the cold-start 3000 rpm rev. It's kinda annoying to get it to stay running in the morning for a few seconds, until I rev it and it 'catches', for a lack of a better word. The PO said the compression was good, but I'll check that when I replace the plugs.

So the AFM idea is a valid option, huh?

 

It could be your MAF, yes. Just as well as it could be any of the other problems mentioned above. I would do the *free* ones first, autozone will lend you a compression tester free of charge. Checking for air AND vacuum leaks is free but time consuming, im willing to be you have one or more vac leaks somewhere under there. those old vac lines get brittle and crack over time

 

The ariflow meter ...............is NOT used during the Start procedure.

https://www.rx7club.com/forum/attach...hmentid=150448

 

I also have a faulty MAF... when shaken or moved around alot my car will shut down and to START it I have to get a buddy to hit the MAF to start it.Then I have to keep the car runnin for a bit until the smoke clears outa the exhaust

 

so...the attachment suggests what? I adjust the fuel ratio or something? The CAS? I dunno. I'm gonna do a compression test tomorrow and replace the plugs and wires and see where it takes me!

 

The attachment was meant to back up his statement that the MAF is not used during start-up. Read the text under the picture. The MAF is bypassed and a preset fuel amount is continuously injected based on coolant temperature.

 

Gotcha. I thought it had a more profound meaning than that, like a trick or something.

 

Yup.

But it also gives you ideas as why the thing floods during starting. And ideas of how to overcome the flooding other than installing a fuel cut switch at the Circuit Opening Relay (have you considered that???).

What is happening, is there is too much fuel being delivered during start. Why too much fuel? A likely cause is low compression but could be another thing.

One way to have less fuel during Start, is to alter the water thermo sensor input to read a higher temperature. Like the graph shows, at higher water thermo temps the injected amount is much smaller.

Or, you could disable the *Start* map in the ECU by eliminating the Start signal to the ECU on pin 3B of a series four car. IF you do that, then the ECU WILL use the afm for fuel delivery. I guarantee that amount will be much less than any *Start* map in the ECU. Been there, seen the amount for both.

The only problem with disabling the START signal on 3B, is that might very well help out on HOT starts, but on cold staring the amount of fuel will be too little, making for a hard start due to too little fuel.

Actually you could make a *cut* switch for pin 3B much like for the Fuel cut switch. You'd have the circuit "Make" for cold starting, but would flip the switch for HOT starting or any start other than a cold start.

A third tack would be to buy a RTEK ECU from Digital Tuning. It has a fuel cut for flooding much like the series five cars have. IF the pedal is depressed to the floor, the fuel injectors are turned off. Now the residue fuel will be either shunted out the exuaust ports or when the mixture gets just right, will fire up the engine.

A fourth tack would be to rebuild the engine using NEW rotor housings.

Just rambling.

 

hm, and here I though it was only leaky injectors! lol Umm...hm. I will know the compression tomorrow. The PO said it had good compression, hence my leaky injector assumption. I thought there might be too much fuel on warm starts, but didn't feel like buying a rtek right now. Can I just lean out the hot start mixture on the stock ecu?