flooding and fuel pump questions
#1
flooding and fuel pump questions
how do u do the fuel pump rewire? and after u do the fuel pump rewire, how do u hook a toggle switch to the pump for the flooding problem?
also the little black box underneath the dash which is supposed cut power to the fuel pump, which wire out of the plug is it thats really for the pump?( i havnt actually looked under there yet) thanks.
also the little black box underneath the dash which is supposed cut power to the fuel pump, which wire out of the plug is it thats really for the pump?( i havnt actually looked under there yet) thanks.
#2
Banned. I got OWNED!!!
Steps for fuel pump kill switch and reqire:
-Locate black relay under dash beside steering column
-Locate the middle of 5 wires, black with white stripe. Cut it leaving enough room to splice on wires to each end.
-Run a short wire from the *relay end* of the cut wires to your switch
-run a long wire from your switch back to the fuel pump area.
-pull back the hatch carpet and locate the fuel pump wires, and the plug.
-There are 4 wires. 2 of which are for the level sender, small wires, red and blue I think but check. They are smaller than 2 other ones.
-The 2 larger ones are power supply. One is ground, one is power. Use a dmm to find out which is which. This step is important, because the wires on each side of the harness are differnt colors fromt he other half of the harness.
-cut the power supply wire and attatch your power wire that you previously ran back.
-for good measure, run a new ground wire from the ground at the fuel pump harness, back to the frame, cleaning off paint first.
TO turn off car when running, flip switch off, and wait for engine to die, then remove key. To start, turn key, and flip switch while cranking, for 100% idiot proof anti-flooding.
-Locate black relay under dash beside steering column
-Locate the middle of 5 wires, black with white stripe. Cut it leaving enough room to splice on wires to each end.
-Run a short wire from the *relay end* of the cut wires to your switch
-run a long wire from your switch back to the fuel pump area.
-pull back the hatch carpet and locate the fuel pump wires, and the plug.
-There are 4 wires. 2 of which are for the level sender, small wires, red and blue I think but check. They are smaller than 2 other ones.
-The 2 larger ones are power supply. One is ground, one is power. Use a dmm to find out which is which. This step is important, because the wires on each side of the harness are differnt colors fromt he other half of the harness.
-cut the power supply wire and attatch your power wire that you previously ran back.
-for good measure, run a new ground wire from the ground at the fuel pump harness, back to the frame, cleaning off paint first.
TO turn off car when running, flip switch off, and wait for engine to die, then remove key. To start, turn key, and flip switch while cranking, for 100% idiot proof anti-flooding.
#4
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I'm debating doing a cut out switch, and I was wondering if I could just put the switch in-line with the wire I cut. I planned on cutting that wire, putting one end on one terminal, the other on the other terminal and being done. Why do you say to run it to the fuel pump? Just wondering, so let me know if I'm gonna kill my car. Thanks.
#5
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Originally posted by hypntyz7
Steps for fuel pump kill switch and reqire:
-Locate black relay under dash beside steering column
-Locate the middle of 5 wires, black with white stripe. Cut it leaving enough room to splice on wires to each end.
-Run a short wire from the *relay end* of the cut wires to your switch
-run a long wire from your switch back to the fuel pump area.
-pull back the hatch carpet and locate the fuel pump wires, and the plug.
-There are 4 wires. 2 of which are for the level sender, small wires, red and blue I think but check. They are smaller than 2 other ones.
-The 2 larger ones are power supply. One is ground, one is power. Use a dmm to find out which is which. This step is important, because the wires on each side of the harness are differnt colors fromt he other half of the harness.
-cut the power supply wire and attatch your power wire that you previously ran back.
-for good measure, run a new ground wire from the ground at the fuel pump harness, back to the frame, cleaning off paint first.
TO turn off car when running, flip switch off, and wait for engine to die, then remove key. To start, turn key, and flip switch while cranking, for 100% idiot proof anti-flooding.
Steps for fuel pump kill switch and reqire:
-Locate black relay under dash beside steering column
-Locate the middle of 5 wires, black with white stripe. Cut it leaving enough room to splice on wires to each end.
-Run a short wire from the *relay end* of the cut wires to your switch
-run a long wire from your switch back to the fuel pump area.
-pull back the hatch carpet and locate the fuel pump wires, and the plug.
-There are 4 wires. 2 of which are for the level sender, small wires, red and blue I think but check. They are smaller than 2 other ones.
-The 2 larger ones are power supply. One is ground, one is power. Use a dmm to find out which is which. This step is important, because the wires on each side of the harness are differnt colors fromt he other half of the harness.
-cut the power supply wire and attatch your power wire that you previously ran back.
-for good measure, run a new ground wire from the ground at the fuel pump harness, back to the frame, cleaning off paint first.
TO turn off car when running, flip switch off, and wait for engine to die, then remove key. To start, turn key, and flip switch while cranking, for 100% idiot proof anti-flooding.
That is the EXACT way mine is ran, works everytime. I dont do the flip switch trick or anything, but if it floods i just cut the switch on "off" and crank until it sputters and then switch the switch back on. If you have common flooding problems i woudl cut the switch until the engine died like Kev said.
And another pointless post by me to get to 1000
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#8
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Would someone modify the write up on Dale Clark's page and on 1300cc.com for an n/a... What do I need to different?
Is hypntyz7's write up good for an N/A, or is that just for a TII?
Does that procedure accomplish both a fuel cut switch AND a fuel pump re-wire to provide it with constant voltage?
(My car is a 91 n/a)
Is hypntyz7's write up good for an N/A, or is that just for a TII?
Does that procedure accomplish both a fuel cut switch AND a fuel pump re-wire to provide it with constant voltage?
(My car is a 91 n/a)
#9
I'm a boost creep...
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Originally posted by sunshine
Would someone modify the write up on Dale Clark's page and on 1300cc.com for an n/a...
Would someone modify the write up on Dale Clark's page and on 1300cc.com for an n/a...
Is hypntyz7's write up good for an N/A, or is that just for a TII?
Does that procedure accomplish both a fuel cut switch AND a fuel pump re-wire to provide it with constant voltage?
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