pothead

how do u do the fuel pump rewire? and after u do the fuel pump rewire, how do u hook a toggle switch to the pump for the flooding problem?

also the little black box underneath the dash which is supposed cut power to the fuel pump, which wire out of the plug is it thats really for the pump?( i havnt actually looked under there yet) thanks.

hypntyz7

Steps for fuel pump kill switch and reqire:

-Locate black relay under dash beside steering column
-Locate the middle of 5 wires, black with white stripe. Cut it leaving enough room to splice on wires to each end.
-Run a short wire from the *relay end* of the cut wires to your switch
-run a long wire from your switch back to the fuel pump area.
-pull back the hatch carpet and locate the fuel pump wires, and the plug.
-There are 4 wires. 2 of which are for the level sender, small wires, red and blue I think but check. They are smaller than 2 other ones.
-The 2 larger ones are power supply. One is ground, one is power. Use a dmm to find out which is which. This step is important, because the wires on each side of the harness are differnt colors fromt he other half of the harness.
-cut the power supply wire and attatch your power wire that you previously ran back.
-for good measure, run a new ground wire from the ground at the fuel pump harness, back to the frame, cleaning off paint first.

TO turn off car when running, flip switch off, and wait for engine to die, then remove key. To start, turn key, and flip switch while cranking, for 100% idiot proof anti-flooding.

pothead

thanks. just the info im looking for. thanks again.

RestoTII

I'm debating doing a cut out switch, and I was wondering if I could just put the switch in-line with the wire I cut. I planned on cutting that wire, putting one end on one terminal, the other on the other terminal and being done. Why do you say to run it to the fuel pump? Just wondering, so let me know if I'm gonna kill my car. Thanks.

Roy James

That is the EXACT way mine is ran, works everytime. I dont do the flip switch trick or anything, but if it floods i just cut the switch on "off" and crank until it sputters and then switch the switch back on. If you have common flooding problems i woudl cut the switch until the engine died like Kev said.

And another pointless post by me to get to 1000

RestoTII

can anyone explain why it's run that way though? I don't see any reason not to run it with a switch in-line. Just seemed alot easier to me.

NZConvertible

Rewiring the TII fuel pump

sunshine

iTrader: (3)

Would someone modify the write up on Dale Clark's page and on 1300cc.com for an n/a... What do I need to different?
Is hypntyz7's write up good for an N/A, or is that just for a TII?
Does that procedure accomplish both a fuel cut switch AND a fuel pump re-wire to provide it with constant voltage?

(My car is a 91 n/a)

NZConvertible

The S4 NA doesn't use the relay resistor pack to drop fuel pump voltage at idle and cruise. So it just needs a nice fat fused wire run straight to the pump via a relay, with the relay switched by the pump's original wires. But the S5 NA (like yours) does have the relay resistor pack, so the method is exactly the same. This method is pointless because it's no different to the original wiring. The rewire linked to above runs a large wire from the battery direct to the pump, so has much more effect. For reasons outlined in the article, it's best to keep the original method of dropping the voltage at low load. Voltage at high load is what you're trying to maximise.

MiLNeY

Installing a fuel cut off swich in a 1st Gen would be pointless... would it??