I can almost Garentee that the motor will fight to run and be all F'ed up even if you block off te air and fuel going into the motor. Its not a matter of a dead rotor its a matter of timing that is the reason the motor would run harsly. And what the hell were you tring to say about bogging a geo metro. Yeah it wants to spit and sputter because the revs have dropped out of its opperating range and possibly below idle. And yes they do make engines that are 2 and four cylinder that have symetrical cranks. They provide more tourqe than a conventinal motor but do not provide to revs to be used in a car. Also on that kind of motor all the cylinders fire at the same time. What else do you know about motors.

Probly not as much as I have been to. I went to school to be a mechanic by the time I am 25 I will be ASE master certified. The high school I went to offered three different types of Vocational school classes for the motorized part of the school. I took diesel mechanics for 2 years and then I took auto mechanics for 2 years. Part of the diesel mechanics class was field trips to mines. Were we had a chance to work on some of the biggest and most andvanced diesel engines in the world. Have you even been inside of a motor. Probably not. I have been in engines were you can stand in the crank case and to do an oil change you have to mop out the old oil. In auto class we converted a Geo metro over to completly electronicly operated. For a summer job I worked clearing out old factories. Ive been on a press that stood 40ft high 50 if you count the 10ft below ground. where a crank gear is so big that a 6"4 tall man can stand inside of it and not touch the top. And that was just my basic training in what I am to become I still have another 6 years of college to go at the university of North Western Ohio the best High performance school in the country. I have worked my *** off in my chossen career to become the best. I may be new to rotories but I have alot of people beat on this forum on basic knowledge. And what do you do your profile says you are a bovine technician dosnt that mean you stick your hand up a cows ***.

Im not being an *** but every thread I have posted on you have come back and said it was impossible. And I really dont like being told that I am wrong. But if I am wrong I will gladly admit it but If i know that I am right then I will fight you till the end. Its just how I am

 

Ok...explain to the class how the timing changes to throw the crank out of balance when one rotor fails. I'm eager to learn, as the last time I put any serious looking into the matter, it was pretty clear that the timing has nothing what so ever to do with how the crank and rotors are balanced. Enlighten me.

Holy ****, man...I just hit the first page in an attempt to see how I told you anything was impossible and I was ******* agreeing with you to begin with here...wtf?

Further, I just checked out your previously hit threads in an attempt to see where I've been following you around ******* you and, low and behold, I've replied in TWO threads you've hit up in the FC section, none of which openly disagreeing with anything you've said....

...******* noobs...

 

What does timing have to do with Hmmmm let me think you know that whole blank spot where the dead rotor is supost to be fireing. And then it dosnt. The motors like oh damn **** a blank spot not supposed to be here have to wait until its my turn ti fire again and im losing momentum here so im gonna start to slow down. And when i do fire its gonna surge and make the driver say oh **** something aint right. maybe i should check it out. The engine is not timed to run on one rotor. plan and simple. I cant believe you called me a noob. What is your backgorund in automotive technologies. I may be new to this forum posting but have been viewing it for a very long time.

 

Timing isn't going to have ANY effect what so ever on the balance of the crank and rotors. It's not going to have an effect on the balance of ANYTHING. The ONLY thing that rotor is going to do being dead is add rotating mass to the crank and act as an engine brake during the compression cycles...but, no matter how much dead weight that one rotor adds, the ENTIRE rotating assembly remains just as balanced as mazda intended it to be. You're going to actually ALTER the physical weight of one or more of the components in order for that vibration to be caused by an imbalance. Come on, mr iwenttoschoolsoiknow, they should have taught just a little physics...or something...maybe they don't feel common sense is something they should cover?

Again, the motor runs the way it does on one rotar because it's in a constant struggle to run at all.

 

During my studies, I've found that this leads to the car sounding really cool :p

 

You're aware that the E-shaft is made of approximately 2" thick hardened steel, right? Shearing it in half should be the least of almost anyone's concerns...

As for the original post, it probably would work to a degree. However, an engine on one rotor is far from smooth. It would make probably more sense to cut fuel to one rotor drastically, giving it just enough fuel to continue it's operation without being dragged around. This will also have the effect of preventing oil from loading up in it's chamber (from the MOP and seepage past the control rings) which would quickly foul plugs and cause a lot of smoke when the "dead" rotor starts back up.

Also remember that it takes exactly the same power to move the car down the road on one rotor or two, so you are asking the single remaining rotor to produce this power. Really, you're burning almost the same amount of fuel.

 

One thing you guys are all forgetting about is temperature. The engines are designed to shrink/expand at set rates, and if you completely cut the front or rear rotor, you're going to have one severe hot spot, and one severe cold spot. If I remember my reading correcly, this was what was causing the problems on the 80s caddy engine that did this, was that the cylinders cooled down too much on the ones that they shut off at cruize, leading to increased wear when they started back up. The only way they got around this was to have them fire every 3rd (or 4th?) time, or something like that, just enough to keep it warm for when it needed to be tapped.

Think about it: Even if the one rotor only drops 30 degrees, most people cruise at ~180*ish, your rotor in the rear would be ~150 degrees.. If you suddenly accelerate and need the increased power of two rotors, then you've got one half of your engine getting the same amount of wear that it does when it's colder. I don't know about you guys, but I try not to hit my engine too hard until my water temp is at LEAST 160 degrees.

This is in addition to the increased drag and rotational mass loss, of course.

I think you'd be better served to get an SAFC or EMS and lean the hell out of your cruising map.

Edit: Makenzie71 - Good to see you back around... I was wondering what happened to you. The n00bs have been getting out of line without you here to be keep them in check

 

I think I would really only worry about the center plate reacting wierd to no heat coming from one rotor, I think you could probably hurt the little guy buy changing its heat pattern.

I had an Idea. Although this may not be the answer to the fuel mileage issue, as the one rotor will have to work quite hard.

But this may dramatically help you guys who cant pass emmissions. That may be this idea's best application.

 

pleasse lets fight about something.. i have had a just s singular flooded rotor before.. it ran but it sounded stupid... but that was in neutral for a few seconds then the other woke up.. balence wasnt an issue.. ok on with the fighting....oh yeah stop horn tooting.. 50 foot press /1.3l rotary.. connection?:-P muhahaha.. good idea on emmisions. i wondered about burning the same about of fuel too. arron

 

Hmmm...






-Ted

 

Well, I think those qualify as extenuating circumstances.

 

.. THAT HAD TO HURT MuhahahA!.. wonder what that sounded like..wait i dont believe that one... stop dropping engine blocks and you wont break eshafts.. -