Fixing frozen 6-port actuators
#1
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Fixing frozen 6-port actuators
I have tried pushing on them and also tried the grease test, but no luck on them moving. How would I go about fixing this problem. Maybe take them off and clean them? Any replies would be helpful, thanks in advance.
'86 SE RX-7
'86 SE RX-7
#2
Rotary Freak
NOone cared to respond to my request... ANYWAY...
My rear port was stuck friday night.
I could't really move it unless i exerted ALOT of force.
So i started the task of removeal when i decided that I didnt have the guts to tear it all the way down to the block.
I removes the upper intake, and secondary fuel rail.
Here i realized that the secodary injector was directly above the frozen port.
I remove the fule rail and out Automatic Transmission fluid down the hole.
You see, I was already wrapping up the ATF trick that i had been doing all week on the car anyway.
I only noticed the port, because i was waiting one more night to let the ATF soak on that apex seals before starting it up.
So, I took the time to check out everything else.
This is when I noticed my port problem.
ANYWAY.....
I removed the rail, poured ATF down the hole, (about 1/4 - 1/2 cup)
this should have soaked the port, and i hoped it would free it while still in the block.
After only about 2 hours, (with me manually moving the port armature with my fingers - I also removed the actuators), It MOVED FREELY!
WOW!
Anyway, oddly enough, when i looked down my injector hole PRIOR to putting ATF down there, I noticed that there was a small grille that was just under the injector nozzle.
This grille was silver in color.
After the ATF it was black.
I used various cleaners on it, (which by the way also joined the ATF obviously, so keep in mind that i have now put ATF and WD-40 and carb cleaner down there, but only a small bit), it was still black.
I was unnerved by this, but proceeded as there was nothing i could do about it anyway.
Today i drove the car, and after checking, adjusting, all sensors and actuators, and after soaking the rotors in ATF for 2 days (each day rotating the engin by hand and adding ATF), and after unsticking the rear port actuator, i have what feels like a new engine that doesnt die at idel with the AC on!!!!!!!!!!!!!!
For good measure, I added THREE bottles of injector cleaner to a new tank of HIGH octane gas and will run this tank all out before refilling.
(this by itself helped alot when i first bought the car...)
Hope this helped.....
I could't really move it unless i exerted ALOT of force.
So i started the task of removeal when i decided that I didnt have the guts to tear it all the way down to the block.
I removes the upper intake, and secondary fuel rail.
Here i realized that the secodary injector was directly above the frozen port.
I remove the fule rail and out Automatic Transmission fluid down the hole.
You see, I was already wrapping up the ATF trick that i had been doing all week on the car anyway.
I only noticed the port, because i was waiting one more night to let the ATF soak on that apex seals before starting it up.
So, I took the time to check out everything else.
This is when I noticed my port problem.
ANYWAY.....
I removed the rail, poured ATF down the hole, (about 1/4 - 1/2 cup)
this should have soaked the port, and i hoped it would free it while still in the block.
After only about 2 hours, (with me manually moving the port armature with my fingers - I also removed the actuators), It MOVED FREELY!
WOW!
Anyway, oddly enough, when i looked down my injector hole PRIOR to putting ATF down there, I noticed that there was a small grille that was just under the injector nozzle.
This grille was silver in color.
After the ATF it was black.
I used various cleaners on it, (which by the way also joined the ATF obviously, so keep in mind that i have now put ATF and WD-40 and carb cleaner down there, but only a small bit), it was still black.
I was unnerved by this, but proceeded as there was nothing i could do about it anyway.
Today i drove the car, and after checking, adjusting, all sensors and actuators, and after soaking the rotors in ATF for 2 days (each day rotating the engin by hand and adding ATF), and after unsticking the rear port actuator, i have what feels like a new engine that doesnt die at idel with the AC on!!!!!!!!!!!!!!
For good measure, I added THREE bottles of injector cleaner to a new tank of HIGH octane gas and will run this tank all out before refilling.
(this by itself helped alot when i first bought the car...)
Hope this helped.....
#3
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Join Date: Jul 2001
Location: Little Rock, Ar.
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I had to get the two actuator ports moving and they would barely turn from 1:00 to 3:00 so I remove the vacum line on the dynamic chamber an ran a piece of vacum line from a bottle of Marvels Mystery fluid. I rigged up a bottle that I could squeeze it in with some force. I like it better than ATF, believe me, it is good stuff
Then I started to try to pull them out because that was the only way they would move. I wasn't 100% sure it would be ok but after some more studying of the manual I decided that it would not hurt anything. So I pulled them all the way out. It was not very hard but was nearly impossible to turn. They looked really bad. Lots of black build up. Once I got them out I soaked them in Barryman's Carb Cleaner for about an hour. This is strong stuff. It is not an aerosol but a gallon can. I pulled them out and they looked perfect, like brand new. Stuck them back in and hooked it all back up. I have to have at least 15-20% more hp in higher rpms.
Good luck
Then I started to try to pull them out because that was the only way they would move. I wasn't 100% sure it would be ok but after some more studying of the manual I decided that it would not hurt anything. So I pulled them all the way out. It was not very hard but was nearly impossible to turn. They looked really bad. Lots of black build up. Once I got them out I soaked them in Barryman's Carb Cleaner for about an hour. This is strong stuff. It is not an aerosol but a gallon can. I pulled them out and they looked perfect, like brand new. Stuck them back in and hooked it all back up. I have to have at least 15-20% more hp in higher rpms.
Good luck
#4
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Hey, thanks for the replies. I will probably try to fix them this weekend, if I can get around to it. So far I 've managed to free up the back actuator a little, but I'll be workin on it. Thanks for the help.
#5
Thats not an FC...
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if u are gonna remove the actuator and the 6PI sleeves from the engine, you could always leave them off. this will give u more HP in the upper RPM than just having them open up normally, or wiring them open like i did.
its really beneficial to do this if u have a super low restrictoin exhaust and cone filter set up.
whatever u do, make sure u use a NEW gasket on clean surfaces when u mount the acutators. otherwise youll have a vacc leak that alot of people experience when doin this.
good luck
chris
its really beneficial to do this if u have a super low restrictoin exhaust and cone filter set up.
whatever u do, make sure u use a NEW gasket on clean surfaces when u mount the acutators. otherwise youll have a vacc leak that alot of people experience when doin this.
good luck
chris
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