fixed vacuum leak
#1
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fixed vacuum leak
I bought my 88 gxl a year ago and when I first had it, the idle was stable at 2k rpm. I read some posts and found that you can adjust the idle using the tps. When I adjusted the tps, I discovered a bouncing idle between 1400 and 1600 rpm.
So back to rx7club.com and I learn that it could be many things. I start off by looking for vacuum leaks. Found one at the gasket between the UIM and the LIM. Fixed it and found another leak at the lower grommets of the injectors. Fixed that it, but the idle was still bouncing. I checked the BAC, it was working fine. Finally I looked at the thermowax thingamajig. It was way out of adjustment. Adjusted the fast idle screw yesterday and now the idle is a steady 1100rpm.
Still too high but much more drivable. Will do some more research about the high idle, but wanted to share my progress with you guys. These types of posts helped me out.
So back to rx7club.com and I learn that it could be many things. I start off by looking for vacuum leaks. Found one at the gasket between the UIM and the LIM. Fixed it and found another leak at the lower grommets of the injectors. Fixed that it, but the idle was still bouncing. I checked the BAC, it was working fine. Finally I looked at the thermowax thingamajig. It was way out of adjustment. Adjusted the fast idle screw yesterday and now the idle is a steady 1100rpm.
Still too high but much more drivable. Will do some more research about the high idle, but wanted to share my progress with you guys. These types of posts helped me out.
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Wow. A full year later. I haven't been working on the rx7. Just left it parked for awhile. Recently my daily driver is having problems, so I went back to driving the rx7 so I decided to work on it agian.
Turns out the last time I adjusted the fast idle cam, I neglected to adjust the fast idle adjusting screw to adjust the opening of the primary throttle valve. After adjusting that and then adjusting the air adjusting screw, I FINALLY got my idle to 750rpm.
Now the engine is running a little rough. Checked the spark plugs, trailings were black and leadings were caked with this brown powder, maybe burned. Gonna pick up some spark plugs on Monday.
This forum never ceases to amaze me to see how quick and useful it is.
Turns out the last time I adjusted the fast idle cam, I neglected to adjust the fast idle adjusting screw to adjust the opening of the primary throttle valve. After adjusting that and then adjusting the air adjusting screw, I FINALLY got my idle to 750rpm.
Now the engine is running a little rough. Checked the spark plugs, trailings were black and leadings were caked with this brown powder, maybe burned. Gonna pick up some spark plugs on Monday.
This forum never ceases to amaze me to see how quick and useful it is.
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Time it with a timing light.
Once the engine is fully warmed up, really warmed up, turn the variable resistor first towards the rich Stop the slowly back to the Lean Stop and see if the idle smooths out. Usually they will get smoother going towards the R side of the pot. Don't force the scew past the stops or you'll break it.
Mark where the screw was in the variable resistor prior to adjusting it. If you break it, not to worry. Unplug it and the ECU will fail to the mid position of what the resistor would normally input to the ECU.
Once the engine is fully warmed up, really warmed up, turn the variable resistor first towards the rich Stop the slowly back to the Lean Stop and see if the idle smooths out. Usually they will get smoother going towards the R side of the pot. Don't force the scew past the stops or you'll break it.
Mark where the screw was in the variable resistor prior to adjusting it. If you break it, not to worry. Unplug it and the ECU will fail to the mid position of what the resistor would normally input to the ECU.
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