fixed my idle the wrong way!!!!!
07-03-02, 03:40 PM
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fixed my idle the wrong way!!!!!
well i am taking my car to nags head this weekend and im not sweating my *** off and i couldnt run the AC because of my idle problem i couldnt never get it to idle faster than 700 and the car would shut off all the time at stop lights with no air and if you turned on the AC the car would just stall i have replaced and check everything i know i think the guy that did my port work on the intake ported it to much and its leaking he unhooked the BAC valve so i dont have that to help me out.........So i just took the cruise control cable and tightened it up like the throttle was open and got it to idle at 1000 rpm and i turn on the AC and it goes to 900.I know this is not the right way to fix the problem if anyone has some idea let me know please????? 
im trying to get money to get my TII motor so i can do my conversion over the winter months so im really not looking to tear this one apart to find it but if anyones had this problem let me know.Later,Dave
im trying to get money to get my TII motor so i can do my conversion over the winter months so im really not looking to tear this one apart to find it but if anyones had this problem let me know.Later,Dave
07-03-02, 03:42 PM
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Engine, Not Motor
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Huh? I'd start by reconnecting the BAC valve. It's purpose in life is to keep the engine idling by compensating for any external loads (air conditioning, alternator, etc.).
07-03-02, 03:48 PM
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yeah i was thinking of doing that but i cant find the plug for it i think he cut the wires back up in the wiring harness that will be the first thing i try though. thanks aaron.
07-03-02, 04:56 PM
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Re: fixed my idle the wrong way!!!!!
Originally posted by 88 vert
i think the guy that did my port work on the intake ported it to much and its leaking he unhooked the BAC valve so i dont have that to help me out...
...i cant find the plug for it i think he cut the wires back up in the wiring harness
i think the guy that did my port work on the intake ported it to much and its leaking he unhooked the BAC valve so i dont have that to help me out...
...i cant find the plug for it i think he cut the wires back up in the wiring harness
Like Aaron said, the BAC valve is there to compensate for extra loads on the engine like the A/C, headlights, etc. Getting it working should fix your problem. The BAC valve has a two-pin plug; if it’s been cut off the wires are black with a white stripe (constant 12V) and blue with a green stripe (pulsed earth from the ECU).
07-03-02, 06:25 PM
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Easiest way to test the BAC:
1. Start the car and let it warm up
2. Set parking brake, put in neutral, let clutch out (transmission should be spinning)
3. Turn EVERYTHING on. AC on full, all lights, crank the stereo, defroster, etc.
4. Unplug BAC. If car stalls or engine speed changs drastically, your BAC is working.
1. Start the car and let it warm up
2. Set parking brake, put in neutral, let clutch out (transmission should be spinning)
3. Turn EVERYTHING on. AC on full, all lights, crank the stereo, defroster, etc.
4. Unplug BAC. If car stalls or engine speed changs drastically, your BAC is working.
07-03-02, 06:33 PM
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I wanted to do that today, but that side of the motor gets a bit warm with the turbo being less than a foot away. Is there any way I can test it using a DMM, when the motor cools a bit?
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07-03-02, 06:50 PM
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Originally posted by jimmyv13
Is there any way to check the BAC to see if it works? I have the FSM in front of me and I can't seem to find a check for it.
Is there any way to check the BAC to see if it works? I have the FSM in front of me and I can't seem to find a check for it.
07-03-02, 06:53 PM
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Good point. Use an ohmmeter to measure the resistance accross the terminals (engine off). You should see between 16 and 20 Ohms. That will tell you if the coil is good. Test by applying 12V through a 10 ohm resistor...The valve should click if I remember correctly. Only apply 12V for a short while, or the valve will burn out. If it fails either test, it is bad.
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