Fix spring or run premix?
#26
Clean.
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If you cut corners on the OMP, I worry what other corners you will cut... like forgetting to add premix "just this once". Fix it.
Somebody in these forums makes hardware so you can run premix through your OMP - 2 cycle oil from a seperate reservoir, not motor oil from your crankcase. If I were to switch to 2 cycle oil only, that's how I'd do it. Right now I add 1/2 oz. per gallon, no funnel, no screwdriver, not a problem at all. Not the same as using only 2 cycle oil, I know, but it's cheap enough to do.
Somebody in these forums makes hardware so you can run premix through your OMP - 2 cycle oil from a seperate reservoir, not motor oil from your crankcase. If I were to switch to 2 cycle oil only, that's how I'd do it. Right now I add 1/2 oz. per gallon, no funnel, no screwdriver, not a problem at all. Not the same as using only 2 cycle oil, I know, but it's cheap enough to do.
Last edited by ericgrau; 10-12-06 at 05:56 PM.
#29
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http://forum.teamfc3s.org/showthread.php?t=50561
1oz per gallon is usually what you would see at WOT with the OMP operational. Actually probubly slightly less.
I have premixed for years and I started hating it within the 1st year. My advice to you is try to modify the omp to suck in 2 stroke from a resivour of your choice. Im going to use the cold start bottle.
You will spend a lot less money on 2 stroke when you use the omp.
1oz per gallon is usually what you would see at WOT with the OMP operational. Actually probubly slightly less.
I have premixed for years and I started hating it within the 1st year. My advice to you is try to modify the omp to suck in 2 stroke from a resivour of your choice. Im going to use the cold start bottle.
You will spend a lot less money on 2 stroke when you use the omp.
#30
Rotaries confuse me
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Originally Posted by KNONFS
It will only take a couple of minutes, instead of a couple of seconds
Originally Posted by J-Rat
LMAO!!! Holding the door in with a screwdriver?!?
Oh damn, I wish I could have seen that in person..
Oh damn, I wish I could have seen that in person..
#31
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Actually it drains pretty fast. I used this "method" earlier and was... please... with the results.
#33
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You guys are great I appreciate all the info and again HAILERS You've helped me again Im going to take it off as soon as I get a chance and repost what happened! THANKS!
#34
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Originally Posted by 87Blackone
You guys are great I appreciate all the info and again HAILERS You've helped me again Im going to take it off as soon as I get a chance and repost what happened! THANKS!
It might SEEM more trouble but it makes things go a LOT faster/easier to remove those two items. You then have room to maneuver around to access the two OMP bolts. You'll find you use fewer swear words if you do the obstructional removal.
One other thing I've done is to put threads on the end of the rod where it goes thru the lever. It makes it easier to adjust the rod to the right clearance/slack per the fsm. I still use a cotter key though.
There is a oval O'ring where the OMP mates with the front cover. You can reuse it if your not experiencing leakage right now. I'd put just a smear and only a smear of RTV on the OMP from the 0'ring outwards on the pump. Gobs not allowed, only smears. Gobs goober things up and cause blockage.
#35
I'm too old for this *%*!
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And to add info, here's my way.....
Originally Posted by Icemark
Hmm, I never needed a funnel, but then I buy my pre-mix in plastic bottles; not the old fashioned cans that would need a funnel.
Do they even sell oil in cans anymore?
Do they even sell oil in cans anymore?
I buy Valvoline TCW3 2-cycle oil @ NAPA. When time for fuel, I pour from the NAPA bottle into the WAL-Mart bottle up to the ounces I have estimated for the fuel giong in. My rate is 1/2 ounce per gal. (my OMP is hooked up, but I have reason not to trust it.) Then the complete contents of the WAL-Mart bottle go in right before the fuel.
With 60k on my NA rebuild, it runs like a champ (whatever a champ is)!
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trickster
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