Well, the initial post above explains that after removing the uppser intake, along with the throttle body, you have access to the secondary fuel rail.

Get a Hatynes, or other shop manual and release the fuel pressure before you start.

(run the car and pull the EGI fuse under the hood while its running.)

remove the rail CAREULLY and wit the ports closed, and the actuators removed, put 1/2 cup ATF down the injector holes and let it sit. again re-read the inital post.

Rotating the engine is elemetary.

after the plugs are removed, it turns by rotating any accessory, or pulling on a belt.

Use the plus holes a flashlisht and a shop mirror to visualize the apex seals in the holes and then move them both at least a inch below the lower hole.

put 1/2 cup ATF in and turn every 16 hours.

 

OK $50ea is the Recommended Retail price for 86-88 TII plugs....BUT...after ringing my local rotary workshop he quoted me $13.50 ea.....turns out that the FD plugs fit and work better in the 86-88 engine and they are $36 cheaper too.

SWEET

 

thanks sniper X i think youv got me in the right direction now.

 

This weekend I did the atf trick.. I put atf fluid in and rotated the engine..added every 16 hours, and let it sit in the engine for 24 hours, I then took the car out for a 20 minute ride and put it up to redline a few times... went home and let it cool and changed the plugs....
WELL now when I turn my engine on and it's cold like in the morning it will rev up to 3000rpm for about 20 sec (This is normal all 2nd gen to this to warm the engine) it will drop down to 1000rpm and then stall, so I then start the engine again and it stays at a consistant idle speed, it only does that when I first turn on the engine
What could be wrong that would cause this to happen?
Please help

 

Maybe its just the colder weather. Around here the temperature dropped off alot in the last week.

 

A big step...

After the ATF trick, the engine is TOTALLY DIFFERENT in its compression and capabilities.

THink of all the years of tuning that was done to keep the engine running in the face of all that attacked it.

Carbon, compression, etc.... all are now different.

You have to COMPLETELY RETUNE the engine.

re-read the first post and concentrate on the re-tuning part, and the part about the computer reset.

Skipping this part will yield all sorts of performance problems.
Possibly WORSE than what you had to begin with.

Also, DONT FORGET to fill up with the highets octane you can, and put in about 3 bottles of the best injector cleaner you can find.

Do this on a full tank and run it almost completely to empty.

This is a multi-step process that assumes you know the "factory" tuning methods.

Make sure you include the step of shorting the "initial set" connector when you are supposed to!

Sniper_X

 

How do I reset the computer?
When you say tuning do you mean oil changes and stuff like that?
What is the initial set connector?
Is there any thing else I should know?

 

Errr....

You did the ATF trick and I assumed you had read the RX-7 FAQ.

Read this, its the most important info to hev before you work on your car.

Please re read the first post, and do the steps in (pretty much) the order they are listed.

However,

You reset the computer by removing the NEG battery cable for a few minutes.

The initial set connector is listed in the Haynes manual, FAQ, and factory manual.

Its used to tell the computer to baseline the car computer map. ( i think)

No, you dont have to change the oil, but if ever in doubt, do it anyway.

You have to check timing, plugs, wires, Throttle position sensor, idle, thermowax, and all the other things that go into making these cars idle properly.

This is not an easy task, nor very straightforward, but if you do it, and take the time to do it per the instructions, you'll reap the benifits immidiately in power and stability.