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First Time Porting Pics

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Old Jun 26, 2004 | 02:01 PM
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First Time Porting Pics (56k no)

hey guys this was my first time porting, i used RB porting templates, which i found out arent that big. i practiced on some junk endplates adn housing i had. i need to know how i did, and what i did wrong and such. can i go bigger?








Last edited by gergrx7; Jun 26, 2004 at 02:19 PM.
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Old Jun 26, 2004 | 02:02 PM
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there they are! my computer's colors are horribly off (some of them, i dont know what the problem is), so the pics are very hard to se certain details.

Last edited by casio; Jun 26, 2004 at 02:08 PM.
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Old Jun 26, 2004 | 02:05 PM
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lol sucha newb
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Old Jun 26, 2004 | 11:13 PM
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whenur holdin the a dremel or tool of that typw use both hands both elbows leaning on something and putting ur chin against/beside the end of the dremel will help too. yea it will look kidah strange but itll be worth it also it might be helpful too set up some kind of guide with c clamps and some semi thick strips of steel looks good for a first try though

Last edited by 87base RX-7; Jun 26, 2004 at 11:17 PM.
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Old Jun 27, 2004 | 05:44 PM
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BUMP
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Old Jun 29, 2004 | 06:27 PM
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i redid the exhaust port today, i think i got it pretty good. i try to fix the intake port btu i just messed it up more with the dremel gettting caught in spots creating a bumpy edge. at least it was just a practice one. im gonna start the rael ones tommorow.

pic of new exhaust port


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Old Jun 29, 2004 | 09:09 PM
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you've only practiced for 2 attempts and you're going to try on your offica port tomorrow? dude, not to sound like a ***** or anything but i'd suggest a bit more practice with your tools. because if you mess it up, even if only a little bit that could have a bad impact on your engine. so i'm just offering the peice of advice, practice a little more because the better you get at using a dremel, the better your port will turn out.
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Old Jun 29, 2004 | 09:14 PM
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your cutting too deep on the cutting part of the job. Cut just short of the lines and clean up with a stone to the line. also, do not use a marker for your lines, scripe them in to be more accurate. Are you running a header? if not, why are you doing your exhaust ports?
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Old Jun 29, 2004 | 09:15 PM
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one other thing, that housing is really F*&^ed up, are you reusing any housings from THAT motor?
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Old Jun 29, 2004 | 09:25 PM
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he said they were junk housings. The grooves in the rotor housing are so deep they cast shadows
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Old Jun 29, 2004 | 09:48 PM
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you didnt bevel/taper the exhaust port. youre also supposed to do this to your intake ports if you widen them enough. otherwise your ports might eat your seals. the exhaust port is supposed to have about a 2mm bevel.
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Old Jun 29, 2004 | 10:05 PM
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Originally posted by Project84
he said they were junk housings. The grooves in the rotor housing are so deep they cast shadows

Duuuuh

they came from somewhere, if side/end that he will use came from that same motor, he might have gouging in a housing that should not be reused

the rotor housing does not take that beating and leave the side/end untouched.
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Old Jun 29, 2004 | 10:05 PM
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Dude..... that intake port is WAYYYYYY friggin wavy and a little big i think......... I think you need to invest in a better die grinder burr.. I get mine at granger, carbide, double cut (cross hatch pattern), 1/2 inch cutting diameter, 1/4 inch shank and I run the die grinder at 80 psi (turn the grinder on and THEN set the pressure while its running)

I would not use a dremel tool.. its just does not have enough *** to do the job right, plus its too light.. the die grinder is heavier, ,and that makes it easier to control. along with the air line over my shoulder acting like a stabilizer.

I get a death grip on it with one hand and guide it with the other using both hands in combination. Take very very small incriments off and always work from the fattest part out.

I cut about 1/2 an inch deep in about 1/2 the width of the burr in an area and then hit the bottom to bring it it to the edge of where i cut the top and keep moving out like that until i get to the scribe mark. when i get near the scribe mark, I'm taking less than a milimeter out with every pass, if you go to far into the wear marks, bingo, new housing time

I don't bother with the stones... I use 80 grit sanding cones on a 1/4 inch arbor to smooth out the bumps down in the hole and then step up to 180 and 240 and I'm done
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Old Jun 29, 2004 | 10:11 PM
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Here is a valuable tip. Cut to about 1/16th away from your scribe with whatever bits you are using, then to cut the rest use one of the sandpaper atatchments. It makes it so much straiter! Good luck.
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Old Jun 29, 2004 | 10:53 PM
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ok thanks alot guys, this is the info i needed. i herd from other people i did an ok job, but i needed to keep them strait on not keep ahold of it.

and im not useing a electric dremel, im useing an air powerd die grinder and i need to get a pressure regulator becuase it goes a little to fast for me at times. i guess im gonna be doing alot more practice. any more tips on how to keep it strait?
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Old Jun 29, 2004 | 10:57 PM
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Originally posted by Mr. Gadget
Are you running a header? if not, why are you doing your exhaust ports?
this is for a turbo motor

Originally posted by Mr. Gadget
one other thing, that housing is really F*&^ed up, are you reusing any housings from THAT motor?
i am useign the front housing but not any other irons becuase they need to be lapped to much to make them work. the other housing is in teh first pic.

Originally posted by casio
you didnt bevel/taper the exhaust port. youre also supposed to do this to your intake ports if you widen them enough. otherwise your ports might eat your seals. the exhaust port is supposed to have about a 2mm bevel.
can you explain more about this 2mm bevel?

Last edited by gergrx7; Jun 29, 2004 at 11:15 PM.
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Old Jun 29, 2004 | 11:00 PM
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Also, try to leave the intake port roughed up a bit (keep the F/A mix turbulent when it enters the chamber) and keep the exhaust port as smooth as silk. your first exhaust port was alright, but the top should have had a sharp edge facing the oncoming apex seal, if you can visualize it, so as to collect more exhaust gasses and get them heading the propper way for the header to take them and send them down. I know that I am not making much sense, but think about it for a few minutes or days, then it will sink in.

Also, just as the others have said, don't make the third try at a porting job your official port on your real engine, just try mastering control on the side housings you have laying around, even if you go beyond what any normal port would be, just practice control and handling of the dremmel.
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Old Jun 29, 2004 | 11:01 PM
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i ported my real engine with out practice and turned out nice.

You do need some more practice

Don't use the cutter to get up to the line. leave a bit so you can use a normal grinding bit.

Slow your *** down when you get close (air pressure or whatever).

Use two hands like mentioned.

bevel like casio said and take your time.
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Old Jun 29, 2004 | 11:20 PM
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Originally posted by gergrx7
can you explain more about this 2mm bevel?
look at the very top where you have the two aluminums side by side. see the original how it has that "lip" around it? just like that. judge ito did a write up on it at nopistons.com. i'ma see if i can find it.
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Old Jun 29, 2004 | 11:23 PM
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ok its a turbo. you still did not say if you are using a header or not. Im sure when he said header he ment exhaust manifold if it was a turbo.
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Old Jun 29, 2004 | 11:29 PM
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ok well i thought he header fro NA. but right now its stock s4 turbo + manifold but when i get the money i will be upgrading to a 60-1 adn will want bigger exhaust ports to spool it up.
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Old Jun 29, 2004 | 11:30 PM
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found it, finally!

http://www.nopistons.com/forums/inde...opic=31895&hl=
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Old Jun 30, 2004 | 12:25 AM
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thansk a lot casio, even though i am not porting, that was a great link.
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Old Jun 30, 2004 | 02:16 AM
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great info
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Old Jun 30, 2004 | 12:36 PM
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the bevel for exhaust port + my die grinder + bits




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