First Time Porting Pics (56k no)
hey guys this was my first time porting, i used RB porting templates, which i found out arent that big. i practiced on some junk endplates adn housing i had. i need to know how i did, and what i did wrong and such. can i go bigger?
http://www.teamfc3s.org/forum/attach...&postid=337785 http://www.teamfc3s.org/forum/attach...&postid=337786 http://www.teamfc3s.org/forum/attach...&postid=337787 |
there they are! my computer's colors are horribly off (some of them, i dont know what the problem is), so the pics are very hard to se certain details.
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lol sucha newb
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whenur holdin the a dremel or tool of that typw use both hands both elbows leaning on something and putting ur chin against/beside the end of the dremel will help too. yea it will look kidah strange but itll be worth it also it might be helpful too set up some kind of guide with c clamps and some semi thick strips of steel looks good for a first try though:bigthumb:
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BUMP
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i redid the exhaust port today, i think i got it pretty good. i try to fix the intake port btu i just messed it up more with the dremel gettting caught in spots creating a bumpy edge. at least it was just a practice one. im gonna start the rael ones tommorow.
pic of new exhaust port http://www.teamfc3s.org/forum/attach...&postid=338910 |
you've only practiced for 2 attempts and you're going to try on your offica port tomorrow? dude, not to sound like a whore or anything but i'd suggest a bit more practice with your tools. because if you mess it up, even if only a little bit that could have a bad impact on your engine. so i'm just offering the peice of advice, practice a little more because the better you get at using a dremel, the better your port will turn out.
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your cutting too deep on the cutting part of the job. Cut just short of the lines and clean up with a stone to the line. also, do not use a marker for your lines, scripe them in to be more accurate. Are you running a header? if not, why are you doing your exhaust ports?
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one other thing, that housing is really F*&^ed up, are you reusing any housings from THAT motor?
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he said they were junk housings. The grooves in the rotor housing are so deep they cast shadows :eek:
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you didnt bevel/taper the exhaust port. youre also supposed to do this to your intake ports if you widen them enough. otherwise your ports might eat your seals. the exhaust port is supposed to have about a 2mm bevel.
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Originally posted by Project84 he said they were junk housings. The grooves in the rotor housing are so deep they cast shadows :eek: Duuuuh they came from somewhere, if side/end that he will use came from that same motor, he might have gouging in a housing that should not be reused the rotor housing does not take that beating and leave the side/end untouched. |
Dude..... that intake port is WAYYYYYY friggin wavy and a little big i think......... I think you need to invest in a better die grinder burr.. I get mine at granger, carbide, double cut (cross hatch pattern), 1/2 inch cutting diameter, 1/4 inch shank and I run the die grinder at 80 psi (turn the grinder on and THEN set the pressure while its running)
I would not use a dremel tool.. its just does not have enough ass to do the job right, plus its too light.. the die grinder is heavier, ,and that makes it easier to control. along with the air line over my shoulder acting like a stabilizer. I get a death grip on it with one hand and guide it with the other using both hands in combination. Take very very small incriments off and always work from the fattest part out. I cut about 1/2 an inch deep in about 1/2 the width of the burr in an area and then hit the bottom to bring it it to the edge of where i cut the top and keep moving out like that until i get to the scribe mark. when i get near the scribe mark, I'm taking less than a milimeter out with every pass, if you go to far into the wear marks, bingo, new housing time I don't bother with the stones... I use 80 grit sanding cones on a 1/4 inch arbor to smooth out the bumps down in the hole and then step up to 180 and 240 and I'm done |
Here is a valuable tip. Cut to about 1/16th away from your scribe with whatever bits you are using, then to cut the rest use one of the sandpaper atatchments. It makes it so much straiter! Good luck.
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ok thanks alot guys, this is the info i needed. i herd from other people i did an ok job, but i needed to keep them strait on not keep ahold of it.
and im not useing a electric dremel, im useing an air powerd die grinder and i need to get a pressure regulator becuase it goes a little to fast for me at times. i guess im gonna be doing alot more practice. any more tips on how to keep it strait? |
Originally posted by Mr. Gadget Are you running a header? if not, why are you doing your exhaust ports? Originally posted by Mr. Gadget one other thing, that housing is really F*&^ed up, are you reusing any housings from THAT motor? Originally posted by casio you didnt bevel/taper the exhaust port. youre also supposed to do this to your intake ports if you widen them enough. otherwise your ports might eat your seals. the exhaust port is supposed to have about a 2mm bevel. |
Also, try to leave the intake port roughed up a bit (keep the F/A mix turbulent when it enters the chamber) and keep the exhaust port as smooth as silk. your first exhaust port was alright, but the top should have had a sharp edge facing the oncoming apex seal, if you can visualize it, so as to collect more exhaust gasses and get them heading the propper way for the header to take them and send them down. I know that I am not making much sense, but think about it for a few minutes or days, then it will sink in.
Also, just as the others have said, don't make the third try at a porting job your official port on your real engine, just try mastering control on the side housings you have laying around, even if you go beyond what any normal port would be, just practice control and handling of the dremmel. |
i ported my real engine with out practice and turned out nice.
You do need some more practice Don't use the cutter to get up to the line. leave a bit so you can use a normal grinding bit. Slow your ass down when you get close (air pressure or whatever). Use two hands like mentioned. bevel like casio said and take your time. |
Originally posted by gergrx7 can you explain more about this 2mm bevel? |
ok its a turbo. you still did not say if you are using a header or not. Im sure when he said header he ment exhaust manifold if it was a turbo.
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ok well i thought he header fro NA. but right now its stock s4 turbo + manifold but when i get the money i will be upgrading to a 60-1 adn will want bigger exhaust ports to spool it up.
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thansk a lot casio, even though i am not porting, that was a great link.
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great info
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the bevel for exhaust port + my die grinder + bits
http://www.teamfc3s.org/forum/attach...&postid=339174 http://www.teamfc3s.org/forum/attach...&postid=339176 |
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