petervalle

I put in a battery, coolant, fuel injector cleaner and the car started fine. It was like 32 degrees outside, so the idle at around 3000rpm for a little bit, then around 1500 and then it went down. Once the car warmed up it was idling fine. The tailpipes had no smoke or white steam. I was checking a few things here and there , it had been running for about 15 minutes and steam started coming out of a pin hole by the sensor on top of the radiator and a few seconds later the radiator cap had steam too. I heard bubbling from the radiator and from the firewall, the gauge was not even at the half way mark, but I quickly turned it off.

I could still hear bubbling noise around the back of the engine, so I let it sit overnight. I am short on cash, so I got some JB weld and patched up the radiator, put a new radiator cap and more antifreeze.
The car won't start now. It crank for about 10 seconds, it slowly creeped up to 1000rpm and it shut down, I gave it some gas to try and get it going but it still shut off. I jumped the battery with my truck but the car cranks and cranks and no luck. I do not see no smoke from the tail pipes. I have not touched the gas pedal during cranking. Every now and then I hear a puff from the tail pipes but nothing else. I checked the oil for water or milky residue but it looks fine.
Before I start going around with a multimeter I want to get some opinions. I am praying that the car was not sold as a lemon to me and the engine is gone.

duo2999

iTrader: (1)

what year is the car? turbo or n/a?

do you know the history on the car. usually the case is that when someone buys the car, the engine is on the last leg unless the previous owner cared for the car correctly. do a test to see if your coolant seals are blown.

basically pull the injector fuse, open the radiator car, put a funnel in there and add some coolant if need be, and then have someone crank the car over for you. and if you see any bubbles coming from the radiator, your coolant seals are probably done.

petervalle

It is an 86, When the engine was running at the guys house it was fine. I couldn't drive it because the clutch slave cylinder was empty.
He got it for his daughter but she doesn't like driving a stick shift. He said the radiator had a leak and he parked it for 3 years and now it was taking space.
When the car was running it did not miss a beat, like brand new engine.
Even if the coolant seals are gone, the engine should start, yes or no???

Brian Reynolds

Coolant seal test is a good way to check it easy. a compression test is another way that is pretty cheap and easy. The compression gauge reading should be within 10lbs of each other.In the 70's is low.

petervalle

I did see the videos of the coolant test, so I am doing it tomorrow.

After I shut it off, it sounded like this car on the video.

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=22jHi...eature=related

rx7_FREAKKK

iTrader: (1)

Coolent seals. Or stuck thermostat... ether way sounds bad. Dont rebuild it if it overheated.

petervalle

Ok, I did the bubble test and I was happy for a few seconds....then small bubbles started coming up and then it was a steady stream. This sucks big time. I just spend $900 on this car and the engine is toasted. The car runs and it idles fine, I even took it around the block, but it is hard to start.
There are 2 RX7's on the junk yard. Both have engines and they are $199 each engine. It is a "pick and pull" yard and they said the engines were in running condition.
Or I can go and do a rebuild of mine??? How much $$$ am I looking at...if I do it at home. I have assembled a few V8's before.
Please give me some options.

I also purchased a compression tester, but I haven't checked the engine yet.

Foxtrawt

for 200 an engine I'd buy them both, working or not, as long as they were in good shape, I mean, theres enough parts in there you could find something useful, not to mention you can fiddle around, rebuilt one yourself, or just tear it down and see whats inside. IMO you cant go wrong with a 13B for 200 bucks.

soulrider

iTrader: (1)

yeah really $200 is a good deal! and if it needs a rebuild then itll be a good experience for you. how much experience do you have with rotary's?

Foxtrawt

i went to a junkyard in my town... after 3 weeks of searching I finally found an rx7 in a yard.... the ******* wanted 500 for the aluminum turbo2 hood, 350 for the rear hatch window, and 250 for the tail lights... the engine apex seals were blown and the top intercooler was trashed as weel as belts hoses and the fan... they wanted 800 for it....

petervalle

I know the working principals and I have been in shops that rebuild rotary engines. Someone said here that if the engine has overheated that it is not worth to rebuild. What if this engines have the same problems?
How much $$$$$$ do I need to rebuild a 13B?

petervalle

Can anyone tell me how much a rebuild costs? Nothing fancy, I just need to get this car running and go to work so I can make some money

skir2222

If you rebuild it yourself your looking at spending at least 1000$ I believe

misterstyx69

iTrader: (142)

Dude,use the Sec gen Parts For Sale Section and put up a WTB(want to buy) thread.
there are alot of Members that have an extra N/A engine just layin around..(gone turbo!)..so really it isn't that hard to find a cheap Used engine.
If that is OK,it honestly would save you about 1K..
there is a guy on forum here that sells good engines.: Japan2LA..pm him,and ask him if he has one.Chances are he does..and he honors what he sells.

petervalle

Thanks

petervalle

I have been looking around the search option and I am thinking of doing a rebuild of my engine with the Atkins basic kit. I am hoping for the best and that my only problem are the coolant seals. At $315, I can afford it and buy the video and do it myself.

Foxtrawt

if your not mechanically retarded, as in you know how to use some tools, remember or find a way to remember what goes where, rebuilding isnt that hard. get some instructions and the kit, and have at it.
the only advice ill give you is make sure you clean everything as best you can, and dont scratch the rotor housings.
GL!

VAbeachFC

Dude thats complete crap. Those ppl sound dumb. We just steal our parts from the jyards here

Mod Edit:
Don't advocate theft or other illegal activity. That's just stupid.
If you don't like that scrap yard's prices, shop at another yard.

RTRx7

iTrader: (2)

You need to do some research. I'm pretty sure you have to reuse alot of the parts from your core engine in order to use the atkins basic kit. I would tear it down and see what is still in spec. That should give you a good idea of what you're looking at money wise.

Pele

iTrader: (28)

If you can get a warranty on those engines or a written non DOA agreement, get a compression check on them, or watch them run for a period of time (From a cold start to warm up and then let them run for a while.)

Basically do the same checks you're doing on your current engine for the coolant seals.

Watch the tail pipes right after they're started when the engines are still cold. Have someone in the car rev the engine up... Check for blueish smoke from the tail pipes. This may indicate oil seal problems.

$200 sounds like a good buy on a used engine or rebuildable core. HOWEVER, it sounds like you're gonna use this car as a daily driver and it sounds like right now you don't need a project...

You'll need a weekend and maybe a friend to help you out...


The easiest way to pull one of these engines is like this:

Preliminary: Drain all coolant and oil to prevent making a mess on your garage floor.

1.) Remove the power steering pump and A/C compressor from the engine. Leave them in the engine bay off to the side. Maybe tie them up with rope or a hanger of some kind so they don't stress the hoses and wiring on them.

2.) In the passenger side foot area, under the carpet, you'll find the ECU. There are two harnesses that lead to the passenger side. There's another two connectors up in the kick panel. Unhook all of those plugs.

3.) You should be able to pull the harness through the firewall at the passenger side. (You'll see the wiring go through in the engine bay.)

4.) Do not pull off the manifolds from the engine. Disconnect the exhaust after the stock manifold.

5.) Jack up the car. Under the car, pull the starter. Remove all the bell housing bolts under there as well... Also pull the oil cooler lines. Finally remove the two nuts that hold the engine to the subframe.

6.) Set the car down. On the driver's side, disconnect the spark plug wires, fuel lines, and pull the heater hose from under the oil filter... Remove the wiring from the alternator and fish it towards the driver's side as well.

7.) Climb in the engine bay. Remove the rest of the bell housing bolts. Pull the radiator fan, shroud, and the radiator itself.

8.) You should now be ready to hook up the engine hoist. There's a hook point on the driver's side on the intake manifold and on the passenger's side toward the back of the engine. (I might have those reversed.)

Simply lift the engine up enough for the mounts to clear the subframe, then walk the hoist away from the front of the car. This is the fastest way to get the engine out of the car and gets you the most accessories. Engine will come out with everything you need to drop it in another car.

Anyone wanna fill in anything I mighta missed?

petervalle

Wow, that is a great walkthru of the engine removal. I put an ad up for an used engine.

But the engines at tha junk yard are partialy stripped of electronics, so how can I tests this engines for good cores

calicrewchief

iTrader: (2)

Up

petervalle

I am short on cash to buy another engine for at least 2 more months, so I took the thermostat off, and the car runs fine and the temp stays real low for a long time.
I can at least drive it to work and do arons around town.
I know it is loosing compression and the coolant seals are bad, but it can hold a little while.
Up at around 6-7Krpm it has a slight hesitation but everything else is good.

Delgadorx7

iTrader: (2)

Ur not the only one. Im thinkin i might have the same problem but thanks to the thread I might have cought it early enough.

jjwalker

It is better to drive with a thermostat with a few holes drilled into it than drive without one. If it where summer time right now, you'd have a seized, shattered rotor most likely from overheating.