Finishing things up...
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Finishing things up...
Hey guys the car is a 88 vert with a s4 t2 motor in it..
I have a question right now i am putting the exhaust system on and was wondering if the bolts that hold the downpipe to the turbo are suppose to have lock washers on them? in fact does the entire exhaust use lock washers or any washers. the exhaust was sent to me used and does not have washers i was just wondering if these are need or if there a good idea? thanks alot guys you dont know how much the boards have helped me out.. ill probably be back with some more questions but im gonna try and see if i can fix them first.
I have a question right now i am putting the exhaust system on and was wondering if the bolts that hold the downpipe to the turbo are suppose to have lock washers on them? in fact does the entire exhaust use lock washers or any washers. the exhaust was sent to me used and does not have washers i was just wondering if these are need or if there a good idea? thanks alot guys you dont know how much the boards have helped me out.. ill probably be back with some more questions but im gonna try and see if i can fix them first.
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Hey guys ive also been searching these for awhile. My fuel pump runs while the engine is in the accesory position, as if you were to have the jumper connected but the jumper is not connected. i was thinking that maybe this is a short to power, has anyone else had this happen? i rememeber someone saying that in the accessory position the pump should not be running unless jumpered i dont want to burn up the pump so any help is appreciated. Also i am having a probably with the temp gauge it spikes all the way to hot when the key is in also in the accesory position. does anyone know which sensor this reads off of and if it NTC or PTC, im pretty sure i just have it plugged in wrong i was looking on the wiring diaphram but didnt know the location. thanks so much guys
#4
rotorhead
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there was a thread about this recently. Lock washers are not for the precat/downpipe connection to the turbo. Your downpipe nuts will loosen up after a few thousand miles. There is an OEM lock tab thingie for the downpipe: http://www.mazdatrix.com/d5.htm
you can also use copper locknuts from www.atpturbo.com . Size is M8
you can also use copper locknuts from www.atpturbo.com . Size is M8
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thanks for the help guys ill be using lock washer for now until i get some of those lock washers from mazda trix didnt even know it was that serious, thanks..tomorrow ill be playing with the wiring so im sure ill have a few new ones. and any help with the fuel pump and temp gauge is appriacated.. thanks again guys
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alright got the exhaust hooked up with the lock washers for now and im gonna order the mazda trix stuff do you know if the rear lock tab is for the turbo to downpipe? well anyway i got the temp gauge working it goes up to hot in the accessory position then when the car starts it goes down to about 1/4. The fuel pump is still a concern but not that much of a issue. now i have a 1500-2000 rpm idle that doesnt sound good. seems like you can hear popping in the combustion chamber like pre-ignition im gonna check timing and look through the fc3s idle right up see if i can fix it. Oh and time for a new radiator leaks pretty good. I was thining a koyo but have heard alot of people talking about a dual pass from AFCO the only reason i might side with koyo is because its direct bolt in i would love the dual pass but dont have a way to fabricate the mounts..anyone know of other good radiators?
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