Ok, I bought this car (90TII) with a blown motor and a few months ago I bought a Jspec S5TII engine from Japan2la to go in it. I took my old motor out about 4 months ago, so i forgot a few things.

How do you tell which fuel line hooks up where? I remember reading alot of people would hook them up backwards when installing the engine.

I am swapping my old upper intake to the Jspec engine. The lower intake is missing one sensor that my USDM engine has on it. Is it needed? Should I swap out the lower intake too?

And firing order... Which is the leading coil, and trailing coil. What wire goes on what plug?

How do I tell that the Jspec OMP is working? The OMP on the USDM engine went bad, and thats what killed the engine. So, I want to make SURE that the new OMP is functional. Also, would it be bad to run like 200:1 premix along with the OMP just until i can make sure the engine uses oil like it should?

Thanks for your help fellas!

 

i JUST got my jspec motor swapped into my 2nd 87 t2

just have the fuel lines one way, and if it doesnt fire/run, switch then around.

if you are looking at the engine from the drivers side fender, the FEED line is on the left hand side, and return obviously on the side closest to the windshield.

hope this helps

cheers,dan.

 

Anyone know about the lower intake? Im to the point that if im going to take it off, it has to come off now... Let me know asap!! Thanks

 

What sensor do you mean on the lower?

I have an S4 and the only difference in the lower intake mani between US and JSpec was the Sub-Zero Start Assist. If that is it then you don't have to have it but you will have to remove it all and plug the vaccum or it won't start.

Mike

 

Yes, I think its the Sub Zero start assist. When you say you have to remove ALL of it, what do you mean? What all needs to be removed? Thanks

 

The sub zero system vaccum port originally was on the inside of the Lower intake mani. kind of between the 2 fuel rails.

There should be a bottle in the passenger side corner by the firewall. That is the system along with the lines that go to their respective spots. I just plugged mine and didn't remove it all but should be self explainitory once you locate the bottle.

Mike

 

A pic would help to verify but it does sound like the Subzero crap.
There isn't really anything else on the LIM except the ACV/injectors/ and vac lines

You can determine the coils apart from the labels on them. AT the plug point you shoudl see T1 (Trailing front )
T2 (Trailing rear)
L1 (Leading front)
L2 (Leading rear)

Another helpful thing to remember is
L is for Lower and T is for top on the engine

The OMP
The FSM has the steps to test it.
You have to run the engine and measure the CC's of oil that come out.
I don't trust the OMP. I removed mine and blocked it off. I am premixing and have been for 3 years now.
The idea of a small pin hole in the center of the housing lubricating the engine surface doesn't add up.
IMO Premix is better because it is atomized with the fuel and is intended to be burned AND lubricate unlike motor oil.

 

Got all the crap from the old motor on the jspec motor, and got it in the car. Just need to hook up a few more things, and throw the fan/shroud back in and see if it will start!! Thanks for the help guys!

I did break something though. The plastic connector that the intercooler elbow connects to on the passenger side. On the bottom of it is the hose going to the turbo. then there is a smaller hose that goes to something on the intake manifold. I snapped the connector off that the smaller hose hooks up to. I covered it with tape for the time being so there wasnt a huge vacuum leak. Will this affect anything? Thanks

 

Open your copy of the Factory Service Manual (available in the FAQ) and check it out...

Also, fuel always feeds to the lower rail (pulsation damper) to the upper rail, then from the FPR back to the tank.

 

Ok, It runs. It doesnt idle very well, it likes to die. Any ideas? Think it could have something to do with that little hose i broke not being hooked up now? Anyhow, when it was cranking the compression sounded even so hopefully i got a good jspec motor. I have a little antifreeze leak i gotta fix and I can take it for a testdrive!

Let me know if any of you have an idea about the crappy idle. Thanks

 

Ok, A little better description of what I broke. There is a black plastic tube that connects the intercooler, to the turbo. It has a hose coming out of the side of the tube, and I believe it is going to the BAC valve. The tube going to the BAC valve, I broke. So, I plugged the bac, and the tube with some duct tape to keep from having a vacuum leak. Would this cause my shitty idle? Thanks

 

Yes it would. Spray some carb cleaner around there and see if the Idle problem clears up for a sec, if it does then you'll need more then duct tape

 

Those black S5 platic tubes break super easy.. Replace it with the alumium S4 Turbo type.. I have the part if you needed it...

 

Also, please tell me that you had those injectors that came in the motor Serviced.. Either RC enginerring or witchhunter..and that you replaced the water pump and Thermostat and belts.. These are things people overlook when installing a Jspec...which can cause a serious failure or damage to the motor.. Also make sure your coolant system is WORKING without any leaks and that the motor DOES NOT overheat... Lastly, do not beat on it "drive it hard" until you have done a few Idle warm up and cool down cycles...

 

Hi Japan2la, I didnt know if you were still on this board or not. I got a new waterpump, new thrmostat, and belts. Runs cool. Sits right at halfway on the gauge, even when its 106 Degrees out. I didnt clean the injectors because I was kind of rushed for time to get this car out of the garage. I didnt even unstrap that engine from the pallet until 4 days ago. Anyhow, I somewhat fixed the plastic tube I broke, and the engine suddenly likes to idle when its warmed up. The biggest problem now is when I give it about half throttle right when the turbo starts kicking in, there is a loud whooshing noise. Like its leaking the boost out somewhere. Sorry, this is my first turbo engine so... Anyhow, is there any way to check if im boosting correctly? The boost gauge is the stock one. The only mods my car has is a FCD, and the mufflers have been removed, and straight pipes put in their places. Thanks!!

PS> How much for that aluminum piece to replace the plastic one i broke? Is it a direct fit?

 

I am VERY much still here... Sounds like boost is leaking from that plastic connector.. $20.00 for the S4 metal type...$5.00 for shipping.. I really recommend having those injectors done... I have a set here I can do exchange with you..( I keep them on hand as RC is a few blocks from me) $128.75 gets you four freshed up injectors,(cleaned, flow match and patterned, balanced,new O-rings and pintle caps and the metal tube you need to your door.. You will need to send me the 4 injectors you have in that motor back to me though..

 

Let me do a little thinking on the injectors. I will let you know. Is the S4 aluminum hose a direct fit onto the S5? Thanks!!

 

YES..

 

You could give me a free connector, seeing that you already robbed the plastic connector off the engine you sold me. Just a thought

 

I did not remove any parts from the motor I sold you.. They way it came in from Japan is the way I sent it out.. I will gladly give it to you for free if you take my advise on the injectors...

 

Im just messin with ya, its not a big deal. I fixed the old one and found the problem with the poor idle, and crappy boost. There was a couple small leaks in the intercooler piping, and I forgot to hook up one of the harnesses to the leading coil haha... It runs GREAT now. Just has a little stutter when cruising at 35-40mph and after it stutters for a while it will throw up a CEL. I have to look up how to see what the CEL means... Thanks for your help!